A taste of Mauritius

It's an hour's drive from Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam airport in the south of Mauritius to my hotel on the east coast, which is just enough time for my erudite driver to run me through the island's turbulent 1,000-year history.

As we pass field after field of sugar cane, set against the dramatic backdrop of the dark, volcanic Bambous mountains (which resemble lions, thumbs and men in raincoats, according to my driver), I discover that Portuguese, Dutch, French, British and Indian labourers, Madagascan slaves and Chinese traders have all left their mark on Mauritius. More importantly, from my point of view at least, they've all influenced its cuisine. Because, unlike many of my fellow hotel guests, I'm not a love-struck honeymooner busy collecting memories made of blue seas, white sand and the hot sun.

I've come to this dot in the Indian Ocean, off the coast of Africa, in search of some unforgettable and distinctive food. And that means, despite the presence of some world-class chefs, escaping the resorts.

With many visitors taking advantage of the all-inclusive packages, it's not something everyone visiting the island will bother to do. But it's worth paying the inflated taxi fares to get a real taste of Mauritius. I found it with my first taste of Ti Punch at the delightfully ramshackle Chez Tino restaurant in Trou D'Eau Douche, just five minutes from the hotel. The powerful cocktail, made from the local white rum, sugar cane syrup, diced green lemons (a local variety that tastes like a cross between lemon and lime) and crushed ice, is Mauritius in a glass. They do a fine plate of smoked marlin here, too. A typically Mauritian dish, the thinly sliced opaque flesh tastes a little like salmon but less oily and with a more robust texture.

Wednesday, when there is a market, is the best day to visit Flacq, the east side's main town. Taxi drivers will give you strange looks if you try to go at any other time. Despite desperate pleas to take me to the best snack stall in town - "I'm a food writer, I need to try everything!" - my driver insisted there was nothing for tourists. I headed out alone along a street that wouldn't have looked out of place in the middle of Delhi (60 per cent of the island's population are Indian) determined to prove him wrong.

Within five minutes I'd stumbled across a man crouched by the busy main road, a battered metal platter of what appeared to be tiny red pears beside him. These turned out to be jambalac, a watery fruit with slightly perfumed, crunchy white flesh. A little plastic bag of them, mixed with some chilli salt made for a refreshing snack.

Built in 1830, Maison Eureka in the affluent central area of Moka is one of the best-preserved and largest colonial houses on the island. It's a beautiful property with a stunning mountain backdrop, but I was more interested in the traditional Creole food they produce from a fully operational period kitchen. Unfortunately, I was out of luck. The flamboyant owner, Jacques de Maroussem, greeted me dressed as a maharaja, his skin darkened by make-up, and told me they were filming a Bollywood music video in the house so the restaurant was closed.

Nevertheless, the kitchen rustled up some classic Mauritian snacks, gateau piment, made from deep-fried yellow split pea paste flavoured with chilli, spring onions and coriander, and vegetable samosa made with potato and the ubiquitous carri poulé, or curry leaves. We wandered the grounds, nibbling on the deliciously hot and crisp nuggets as De Maroussem filled me in on his family's recent history.

We decamped to his nearby La Ravin restaurant (soon moving to Eureka House) where the wine and stories flowed and I got the chance to try a more modern take on Mauritian food. You'll usually find heart of palm - literally the tender heart of a palm tree - in salads, but here it's made into a cheese-topped stack with chicken livers and a raspberry dressing. Daring, if not entirely successful.

Museums usually leave me cold, but what sweet-toothed sugar junkie could resist 5,000 square interactive metres dedicated to the stuff? L'Aventure du Sucre opened in 2002 in the converted Beau Plan sugar factory near the capital of Port Louis and is a fascinating journey through the history of the island as well as the astonishingly complex process of making sugar.

Despite eating myself to a near-standstill, I was still looking for that one truly great eating experience as I neared the end of my short stay on the island, a flavour, a texture, a smell that would encapsulate what is undoubtedly a great food culture. Luckily, my driver knew exactly where to find it. Walking along the Caudan Waterfront in Port Louis, we passed what appears to be the sole culinary legacy of 154 years of British rule - a row of theme pubs - and headed for the food court at the central market.

We weren't interested in the undoubtedly delicious venison curry (there's a surprising amount of deer on the island) and we definitely passed on the nastylooking, ready-made hamburgers. It was dholl puris we were after. As a food professional of sorts, I suppose I should have taken time to appreciate the skill it must have taken to transform dull, old split yellow peas into an impossibly light, flaky savoury pancake. And I certainly should have paid more attention to the interplay between the rougaille (a spicy tomato-based sauce), chutneys and pickled vegetable relish that were flicked into puris with astonishing speed by the young stall holder. But it was all gone before I knew it.

Andy Lynes flew as a guest of Air Mauritius (020-7434 4375; airmauritius.com). It offers direct flights from Heathrow from £600 return. He stayed as a guest of Naiade Resorts (00 230 698 22 22; naiaderesorts.com) at the Beau Rivage, Belle Mare and Legends, Grand Gaube. Double superior rooms cost from £186 per person half-board at Beau Rivage. Double rooms at Legends start at £113 per person per night half-board. His itinerary was organised by White Sands Tours (00 230 208 54 24; whitesandstours.com). It offers airport transfers from £49 one-way as well as excursions on the island

1. Port Louis Central Market

WHAT IS IT? Unless you are particularly interested in purchasing some pungent dried octopus, your best bet is to fight your way past the over-eager stall-holders and head straight to the food hall. Try a glass of refreshing alouda made from milk, basil seeds, agar agar, crushed ice and a scoop of vanilla ice cream.

WHERE IS IT? Port Louis.

2. Le Langouste Grisse

WHAT IS IT? There are plenty of restaurants overlooking the beautiful Grand Bay, but one of the best in the area has to make do with a small swimming pool instead of an ocean view. Never mind, seafood dishes such as a fillet of meaty damberry served with basil sauce and the spinach-like brède make up for the lack of vista.

WHERE IS IT? Royal Road, Grand Bay (00 230 263 1035; lalangoustegrisee.com).

3. L'Aventure du Sucre

WHAT IS IT? After you've completed a tour of the fascinating exhibitions, stop off at the sugar museum's stylish Le Fangourin restaurant for locally caught fish, such as vaccoas, served with parsley-flavoured olive oil. Finish with one of the signature flavoured rums, an island speciality.

WHERE IS IT? Beau Plan (00 230 243 06 60; aventuredusucre.com).

4. Flacq Weekly Market

WHAT IS IT? You'll find unusual vegetables including the marrow-like calabash and plenty of places to buy Mauritian snacks such as aubergine fritters. Insist the stall- holders cook them fresh for you, otherwise you'll end up with a bag full of greasy, soggy batter that's only good for the bin.

WHERE IS IT? Royal Road, Centre de Flacq.

5. Le Café des Art

WHAT IS IT? This 19th-century converted sugar mill houses an art gallery exhibiting the works of Manglier, the last private pupil of Henry Matisse, as well as a gourmet restaurant. Overseen by the colourful Jocelyn Gonzalez, it's an idiosyncratic hymn to the finer things in life.

WHERE IS IT? Trou D'Eau Douce (00 230 480 0220).

6. Chez Tino

WHAT IS IT? Fine dining it ain't, but there's something appealing about sitting out on the terrace while the kids from the house opposite make faces at you and the locals gather to watch football in an annexe off the dining room. The mix of warm spices make chicken Creole a decidedly Mauritian curry.

WHERE IS IT? Route Royale, Trou D'Eau Douce (00 230 480 2769).

7. Maison Eureka

WHAT IS IT? With its antiques and carefully preserved interior, Maison Eureka is the perfect place to investigate the island's colonial past. It's also one of the best places to discover the true flavour of traditional Creole in dishes such as chicken gizzards cooked in garlic butter and pickled fish in turmeric.

WHERE IS IT? Moka (00 230 433 8477; maisoneureka.com).

8. Dewa Dholl-Puris

WHAT IS IT? No need to stand on ceremony for some of the best dholl puris, on the island. These are similar to rotis and chapatties,

but are made from yellow lentil flour and filled with a combination of spices.

Just ask a local the way to this renowned food stall and get your hands on some truly memorable and delicious fast food.

WHERE IS IT? Arab Town, Rose Hill.

9.La Clef des Champs

WHAT IS IT? Jacqueline Dalaie is the island's celebrity chef and is now busy collecting family recipes for a book of traditional Mauritian cooking. No visit to Mauritius would be complete without eating at her famous restaurant where the likes of Nelson Mandela have dined.

WHERE IS IT? Queen Mary Avenue, Floréal (00 230 686 3458).

10. Domaine Anna

WHAT IS IT? This sprawling Chinese/Creole restaurant with its koi carp-filled ponds and dining pavilions holds 450 customers and has room for a further 500 in a purpose-built private area. Prawn cocktail with heart of palm and platters of sizzling beef have proved so popular that the restaurant's capacity is being extended even further.

WHERE IS IT? Flic en Flac (00 230 453 9650).