City slicker: What's new in Tokyo

Why visit?

A blend of ancient traditions and breakneck speed, Tokyo is a must-see city, and October is the month for visitors who crave the creative.

First, the annual Tokyo Film Festival (tiff-jp.net/en/) comes to town, a programme of awards, screenings and high-profile appearances that sprinkles stardust on the neon-lit streets. Then design fans flock to Tokyo Designer's Week (da-npo.org /tdw08/english /index. html ), where some of the world's most cutting-edge art and design is on display.

And those after more traditional celebrations can enjoy Ikegami Honmonji O'Eshiki (jnto.go.jp), when thousands gather to mark the death of high priest Nichiren Shonin 700 years ago, with the parade of 100 lanterns.

Food fans will find the city is still buzzing from last year's launch of the Michelin Guide (michelinguide.com ), Asia's first. It revealed to the world what Tokyoites already knew, that the food here is fresher, tastier and better value than anywhere else.

But whenever you arrive, the main draw is the vibrant atmosphere, the chance to visit a city where a night out can include fancy-dress karaoke, insanely noisy gambling in a pachinko parlour, and so-fresh-it's-moving sushi for breakfast.

Don't miss...

... a spiritual moment in Meiji Shrine, in the centre of one of the cities few green spaces.

... a credit-card spree in Midtown (tokyo-midtown.com/en/ ), Roppongi's latest shopping and dining complex.

... Sunday in Akihabara, centre of the universe for manga fans, maid cafés and some of the world's strangest electronics.

... grabbing the microphone for karaoke, available 24 hours a day on every corner.

... gazing at the cityscape from the new open-air Skydeck (roppongihills.com/tcv/en/ ), a vertiginous 52 floors up.

... tea ceremony at Hotel Okura (okura.com/ tokyo/info/tea ceremony.html ). Fascinating, serene, and only £5.

... Yanaka, a rarely visited neighbourhood of tiny art galleries, low-rise streets and quiet shrines.

... the zebra crossing at Shibuya station. Watching hundreds of people cross the road has never been so mesmerising.

... visiting the Tsukiji fish market (tsukijmarket.or.jp ), where the world's freshest fish are bought and sold at the crack of dawn.

... a trip to Sanrio Puroland (puroland.co.jp ), home to Hello Kitty – the oddest theme park ever created.

What's new

Marunouchi

This is a city of reinvention, and there's no better example than the streets surrounding Tokyo station. The past year has seen them transformed from boring business district to hot spot of shops, bars and restaurants. Both the Marunouchi and Shin Marunouchi buildings are filled with fabulous fashion and food, and this autumn's Cow Parade (right) – an art festival where life-size animal sculptures are decorated by local artists – has added a splash of surreal colour to the streets. And with the station itself under renovation, the cool quotient continues to rise.

Details: shinmaru.jp; cowparade-tokyo.com

Peninsula Hotel

It has taken a while, but a clutch of recent hotel openings has knocked Lost-In-Translation Park Hyatt off its perch. Best by far is the Peninsula, a 314-room lantern-shaped temple of sleek style. Each bedroom bristles with the latest technology, but it's the focus on excellent service that really sets it apart. Even if you are not a guest, join the socialites in the lobby for afternoon tea, or enjoy the view from the theatrical rooftop restaurant, Peter. Rates from £307 per night.

Details: peninsula.com

Armani Ginza Tower

Nobody loves labels like the Japanese. And when it comes to designer emporiums, Tokyo does them bigger and better. The latest and greatest is Giorgio Armani, the flagship that opened to much fanfare in the previously staid neighbourhood of Ginza. A 12-floor palace to high-priced fashion, it includes the designer's first spa, noted restaurant, bar, interior collection and, of course, acres of must-have threads.

Details: giorgioarmani.com

Do Gallery

Part of the newly renovated Claska hotel (Tokyo's first and much-loved boutique hotel), the Do Gallery presents collections from local artists that encapsulate the Claska concept of "contemporary Japanese". Recent exhibitions in the simple open space include hemp work by Shinichiro Yoshida and innovative craft pieces by Ryoichi Kobayashi. Those inspired by the work can then spend their yen at the shop – prices start at just £5.

Details: claska.com

Edelstein Café

The rise of the fujoshi (that's the female equivalent of the male geek "otaku") has got women flocking to female-only themed eateries. The hottest ticket in town is the new Edelstein Café, a "boarding school" where long-lashed men dressed in uniform play the part of schoolboys as they go about serving their adoring customers. Make sure you book a table to enjoy one of those only-in-Japan afternoons.

Details: 2F Shanzerize Harajuku, 4-28-14 Jingu-mae, Shibuya-ku.

Sin

Many are surprised that carb-heavy Italian food is such a hit in Japan. But as the success of new opening Sin proves, this trend shows no sign of abating. Set in the hip Aoyama district, this café-by-day, wine-bar-by-night hits all the right style notes, with sleek surfaces and primary coloured furniture creating a simple but sexy ambiance. Boasting more than 400 bottles, it has one of the best cellars in the city, and with 40 available by the glass, a night here doesn't mean a credit-card meltdown.

Details: sin-tokyo.com

Insider’s secret Nicole Fall, co-director of the Bespoke Tokyo concierge firm

"Right now, old-fashioned jazz supper clubs are making a comeback in Japan. Billboard Live, inside Tokyo Midtown, is intimate and offers two stages per night featuring little-known jazz singers through to international artists such as Chaka Khan. Aside from decent cocktails and seasonal European cuisine, what makes this venue special is its backdrop, a huge floor-to-ceiling window with views of Tokyo." Details: billboard-live.com/club/ t_index_e.html; bespoketokyo.jp

Upcoming design and film festivals make October a good time to visit Japan's capital

Compact facts

How to get there

Return flights to Tokyo start at £399 with Finnair (0870 241 4411; finnair.com).

Further information

Japan National Tourist Organisation (020-7398 5678; seejapan.co.uk).

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