Hotel Of The Week: Evason Ana Mandara Villas & Spa in Dalat, Vietnam

The Vietnamese hill station of Dalat was created in the late 19th century to stop French colonialists going mad in the sultry heat of Saigon, now called Ho Chi Minh. Back then it became the chic resort of choice for Vietnam's colonial masters. Today, after years in seclusion, it is slowly transforming itself from a backwater into one of the hippest destinations in Vietnam - although the 30-minute flight from Saigon is preferable to an often hair-raising six-hour journey by car.

My first morning at the new Evason Ana Mandara Villas & Spa at Dalat begins with the uplifting smell of pine, a cooling breeze and serene silence. There are 17 lovingly restored villas and 57 rooms in this exclusive resort, each with a unique design. The rooms are managed as part of a 35-acre complex. Set on a private cobbled road, all were built by the French in the 1920s and 1930s. Some, complete with red tiles and wooden beams, have more in common with the pastoral charms of Alsace, while others retain sweeping, sophisticated urbane Art Deco curves.

I open the shutters of my villa, let in the silky cool air and welcome a soothing view of forests and rolling hills. I walk across the wood floors, past the giant fireplace to the vast, deep trough that is the bath. Five minutes later I am immersed in steaming water, soaking away any vestige of stress. A short stroll to another villa brings breakfast. The aroma of roasted coffee and freshly baked baguettes starts the day. Blocks of butter, sticky pots of homemade jam and bowls of the finest pho (noodles) provide delicious sustenance. At the Evason you can rent an entire villa, a suite or a room. To indulge, try your hand at the Six Senses spa or recline by the giant heated pool - afternoon temperatures in Dalat approach a comfortable 25C.

The location

The resort is set amid coniferous woodlands on the edge of Dalat, at an altitude of 5,000 feet in the southern Vietnamese hills. The owners bought up a whole street in the Bellevue Quarter, so there's privacy and serenity. The centre of town is a 20-minute walk away.

The comfort factor

Rooms are a comforting combination of soothing tones and restored French elegance. Beds are dreamy with duvets thick enough to lose yourself in. Watch any one of a dozen English language TV channels on your wide-screen TV or get your butler (on call 24/7) to bring you drinks and a DVD.

The bathroom

Each bathroom is unique, with features such as giant stand-alone tubs opposite fireplaces, separate shower rooms, and stacks of fluffy towels. Toiletries come in generic ceramic containers, and are formulated from organic ingredients.

The food and drink

With the surrounding hills filled with fertile, arable land and a plethora of smallholdings, delicious, local fare is abundant which is evident on the menu. The usual fusion of west and east takes place in Villa 13, the beautifully appointed restaurant villa, with twists on Vietnamese cuisine - rice noodles tossed with Pernod seafood ragout being a good example. Dalat is also at the centre of a big coffee growing area and the local varieties come freshly roasted. The French left a legacy of good bread and wine, so expect the best of both.

The people

Wealthy culture-vultures and those who like something a bit out of the ordinary. Perfect for honeymooners and South-east Asian expats escaping the heat in style.

The area

Dalat is strung across a run of tumbling hills with weird arty attractions - don't miss the Gaudi-esque Crazy House - and numerous funky cafés. Fill your time with a visit to the Art Deco Bao Dei palace, the home of Vietnam's last emperor.

The access

Nothing is purpose-built for wheelchair users. People with disabilities can be accommodated on request and plans are afoot to build specialised facilities. Children are welcome.

The damage

Doubles start at £120 per night with breakfast. Travelmood (08700 664556; travelmood.com) offers seven nights' b&b for £1,031 per person including return flights to Ho Chi Minh with and domestic flight transfers to Dalat in April for bookings made by 28 February.

The address

Evason Ana Mandara Villas & Spa at Dalat, Le Lai Street, Ward 5, Dalat City, Lam Dong Province, Vietnam (00 84 63 555 888; sixsenses.com/evason-dalat).

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* Stay in the heart of Shanghai's former French Concession at the Ruijin Hotel (00 86 21 647 25 222; ruijinsh.com).

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