Insider's guide to... Hanoi

What's the weather like now? Pretty good, as the north-east monsoon has passed and the approach of winter has lowered humidity and cooled temperatures to the mid-20s, giving sunny days, coolish nights and hardly any rain. The severe flooding that ravaged the Mekong Delta and the Central Highlands this autumn hasn't reached Hanoi, so the street restaurants are doing a good trade. Walking by moonlight along the central Hoan Kiem Lake is still the city's favourite pastime.

What's the weather like now? Pretty good, as the north-east monsoon has passed and the approach of winter has lowered humidity and cooled temperatures to the mid-20s, giving sunny days, coolish nights and hardly any rain. The severe flooding that ravaged the Mekong Delta and the Central Highlands this autumn hasn't reached Hanoi, so the street restaurants are doing a good trade. Walking by moonlight along the central Hoan Kiem Lake is still the city's favourite pastime.

What are the locals complaining about? Flooding in more rural rice-farming areas earlier this year has wiped out the rat population, which traditionally makes for tasty rat barbecues after harvest. Rural families are hence deprived of a vital source of protein and are not happy, nor is the Vietnamese farming community. Meanwhile in the city, the motorbike industry is up in arms about the latest Chinese-produced motorbikes that are swamping the market. Retailing for a bargain seven million dong, they put the rest of the locally produced bikes to shame. This is significant because the young Vietnamese are crazy about motorbikes, and Vietnam has more motorbikes per capita than any other country - one for every 18 people.

Who's the talk of the town? President Clinton for his recent visit - although as far as the locals are concerned the chat is less about his attempt to forge the barriers of political friendship, and more about his entourage forcing road blocks which brought chaos to the already overcrowded streets of Hanoi's Old Quarter. Also riding high is the Koto Gourmet, an upmarket deli café staffed by erstwhile street kids, which forms part of a charity programme to train them in hospitality skills. Indeed, the presidential group called in for a coffee and a chin-wag with owner Jimmy Pham.

What are people eating? Street kitchens are the best places to sample two Hanoi specialities: pho, a noodle soup and bun cha, small barbecued pork burgers served with a bowl of rice noodles and vegetables. The French legacy lives on at restaurants such as Bittet, which serves a classic French/Viet fusion dish of steak and chips, Hanoi style. For the adventurous of stomach, dog meat (thit cho) is a popular winter delicacy while tiet canh ngan, frozen goose blood served with liver, peanuts and lemon juice is considered a delicacy for couples on their first date.

What's the cool drink? The great Hanoi tradition is bia hoi, a weak, lager-like beer - you also find bia tuoi, a stronger brew similar to a German Pilsner - served in small street kitchens, and often accompanied by fried snacks, for a bargain 2,000 dong (10p) a glass. For the more adventurous, the snake village at Le Mat, 4km over Chuong Duong bridge in the Gia Lam district of Hanoi, serves up a fine vintage of snake wine with pickled king cobra. Locals describe it as Vietnamese Viagra.

What's the latest outrageous stuff on TV? A quiz show called SV 2000 (Sinh Vien Student 2000), which tests university students on their general knowledge, has been popular for a while and made a star out of the quizmaster, Lai Van Sam. Also in vogue is anything Korean. Rumour has it that the Korean companies have flooded Vietnamese TV shows with images of Korean-style clothes and cosmetics so that young Vietnamese woman will go crazy for their wares. And sure enough, for today's hip young woman around Hanoi, the Korean look is huge.

Where wouldn't the locals dream of going? Ha Long Bay, 180km (110 miles) or four hours by bus from Hanoi, is now the premier tourist destination in northern Vietnam. The vast majority of foreign visitors arrive on organised tours from Hanoi to find neon signs and flashing fairy lights blazing along the waterfront of what was once a pleasantly old-fashioned seaside resort. Even the bia hoi stalls have been replaced by Good Morning Vietnam T-shirt hawkers and café owners who beckon with plastic menus to tie-dye-clad tourists. Local people either buy into this area or move out of it. They certainly don't fork out $140 (£100) a night to stay in suite 208 of the Ha Long Hotel, a converted French villa where the rich and powerful stay: Catherine Deneuve lodged here during the filming of Indochine.

Where are the locals going that tourists don't? The area around the West Lake to the city's north west is still relatively free of tourists and popular with locals for its lakeside restaurants along the Ho Tay Peninsula and for worship at the Phu Tay Ho, a temple dedicated to Thanh Mau, the mother goddess. Karaoke bars and coffee shops are frequented by young Vietnamese couples before taking a moonlit stroll along the lakeside Lover's Lane. One of Hanoi's best kept secrets also resides in this area: a flower market is held daily at dawn beside Nghi Tam Avenue in the West Lake district, attracting Hanoi's itinerant army of flower sellers who gather from 5am (6am in winter) to stock up on blooms at bargain prices.

Where do the chic people go shopping? The area around St Joseph's Cathedral, just west of Hoan Kiem lake, is rapidly becoming Hanoi's smartest quarter, with art galleries, shops selling ethnic craft and high quality textiles, and eateries of international calibre all jostling for space in the shadow of the looming cathedral spires. Co (18 Nha Tho) has the best tailor-made clothes in town while Song (7 Nha Tho) is probably Hanoi's most famous shop for its embroidered garments. It also has a branch in Melbourne. Vietnamese art has gained increasing international recognition, with some galleries targeting serious collectors and promoting local promising newcomers. Notable are the lacquer paintings. The pick of the bunch is the Apricot Gallery at 40b Hang Bong.

Where's the trendy place to escape for the weekend? Sa Pa, a small market town perched dramatically in the shadow of Vietnam's highest peak, Fan Si Pan, has long been a favourite for lazy weekend escapes. Activity focuses on the weekend market where local tribespeople ply their wares, making for a bright and lively street scene augmented by villagers in traditional garb. The Victoria Hotel is a new luxurious complex built to capture Sa Pa's alpine village feel, with premium rates to boot. If you're really smart, you stay at the Cat Cat Guesthouse, the friendliest mini hotel in Sa Pa with fantastic panoramic views across to Mount Fan Si Pan from its terrace, and then buy a $5 day pass to use the Victoria's pool and facilities.

David Atkinson is the author of the Hanoi and Northern Vietnamese chapters of the new, updated 'Rough Guide to Vietnam'.

Compare Travel Insurance - 5 day Euro cover from £4.33 and Annual worldwide policies from just £43.08