Malaysia: Back to nature

We're in a tin-roofed wooden sampan motoring up the vast, muddy Tembeling river flanked by majestic rainforest, drenched in various shades of green. Monkeys hang off the branches. Swallows flit above sandbanks. We pass shrimp nets, lone fishermen, bathing water buffalo, a two metre monitor lizard. And all the time, we're heading deeper and deeper into the rainforest. "I feel like I'm in a Planet Earth documentary," I say to my boyfriend, trying to take it all in.

It all started with a 12-hour flight to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. This is our chance to see the famous Petronas Towers, palm-shaded mosques and preserved colonial buildings. The Malaysian capital has a lively Chinatown, buzzing hawker stalls and frenetic night markets. But what I love most about the city is that £1 can buy you a decent meal and pedestrian crossings count down the number of seconds you have left to get to the other side of the road (handy). Plus, with so many shopping malls selling amazingly cheap shoes, I acclimatise in a hurry.

But now the perfect contrast. We've taken a three-hour coach journey from the capital to the tiny Kuala Tembeling jetty to start our trekking trip. The thrilling 60 kilometre river ride is the perfect introduction to the jungle, before we dock at the eco-resort of Mutiara Taman Negara, our base for four nights.

The Taman Negara rainforest is one of the world's oldest, according to my guidebook. Straddling the borders of Pahang, Kelantan and Terengganu states, it has lain undisturbed for 130 million years, and is now a protected area. Here you can trek up the highest peak on the Malay Peninsula. You can shoot the rapids, catch catfish or try to spot tigers and bears. It is also a haven for hundreds of species of birds, butterflies, fish, lizards and plants (including some of the rarest orchids in the world). This is 4,343 square kilometres of pristine jungle.

The next morning, we join Hasbi, our guide, for a four-hour trek. We set a quick pace, stopping for lessons on various plants. We also inspect a wide array of bugs and birds, and talk about the history, geography and ecology of the rainforest. We chat about the effects of the monsoon, the last time Hasbi saw a Malay tiger (now, sadly, he tells us there are only around 200 left here), and the local village, where the women fish and the men hunt birds, squirrels and porcupines. I also learn that there are around 140 species of snakes. "But they move slowly and only 20 per cent are dangerous."

On our trek we see three porcupines, a mouse deer and wild boar, and climb Gunung Teresek for a memorable view of the deep, lush forest. We then head to one of the world's longest canopy walks, 510 metres long and 45 metres above the forest floor. About as good with heights as I am with bugs, I'm terrified. As I take my first steps on the wobbly bridge, all ropes and aluminium ladders, supported by the 250-year-old trees, the guide says to my boyfriend: "Only about 10 accidents..." Not realising he's joking (very funny), I close my ears and edge forward. Very slowly.

It takes a good half-hour to cross the bridge, clinging on tight. When you feel brave enough to stop and stare though - wow! Your head is literally in the tree tops. Fairy bluebirds and noisy hornbills flutter past.

I return to camp, relieved, and we cool off in one of the many natural, crystal-clear swimming holes. Here on a sedate stretch of the river, kingfishers dart in and out of sight. The eco-resort is just outside the park, and its wooden chalets - simple with hot water and air-conditioning - come with creatures rather than creature comforts.

From the balcony I watch as baby wild boar waddle by, their tails wagging. A chattering family of long-tailed macaques crashes through the trees chucking fruit. In fact, there's a huge sign telling guests what wildlife to expect and where. Between rooms 104-108, look out for mouse deer, between 7am and 10am; rooms 96-108 come with Malay civets, from 8pm to midnight. But there's no mention of the yellow and black snake that slithered past me in reception.

As to what else visited us in the hours of darkness I don't care to imagine, because the night trek shows us exactly what's out there. Along with glow mushrooms, we spot samba deer - graceful creatures, unperturbed by our presence. Then there is the long-legged centipede. "One bite from that would mean a week in hospital," says guide Leon. We take a big step back. Before I have time to be spooked by two huge huntsman spiders, we pass stick insects, a scorpion and a few unidentified scuttlings in the undergrowth.

Suddenly, Leon sends a "Shssshh!" down our line - and there, as we peer into the darkness, we meet the glowing eyes of a wonderfully sleek civet. On a tree nearby a small blue-winged pitta bird is sleeping, upright, on a twig, while above it is a hairy tarantula, as big as a plate, lying in wait. "He will eat the bird - he is patient," says Leon.

Why then, does Leon choose this precise moment for us to switch off our torches to "listen to the jungle noises"? Suddenly I realise that in the pitch black we're also surrounded by millions of glow-worms. It's a breathtaking moment. I really don't want this to be over and decide I prefer the rainforest at night. If there is a downside, it is that the bigger beasts have retreated further back into the jungle.

Visitors can spend a night in a hide (known as bumbuns) overlooking salt licks and waterholes, and look out for a tapir, sun bear or elephant; the seriously hardcore set off on three- or four-day treks deep into the forest for better wildlife-spotting opportunities. I resolve to do that next time.

But our next couple of days are filled with walks and lazy swims under waterfalls and through rapids. You can also take a picnic trip to Lata Berkoh, an impressive cascade, eight kilometres away and three hours on foot, or hire a boat.

In the evenings we eat beef rendang, sizzling prawns and satay in the resort's open-air restaurant, and also take the little umbrella boat to the floating restaurant Rumbia on the opposite bank. Lit by fairy lights, we're served a feast of spicy chicken curry, vegetable tom yam soup and mango juice (great value at £3 for two) as canoes cut through the waters, dissolving into the darkness.

Evenings in the jungle draw in early and those explosive shrieking, squawking, humming sounds you thought at first would keep you awake become a soothing symphony to your ears. I wanted this to be an adventure - and it certainly was.

TRAVELLER'S GUIDE

GETTING THERE

Kuala Lumpur is served by Malaysia Airlines (0870 607 9090; www.malaysiaairlines.com) from Heathrow. Or you can fly via Doha with Qatar Airways (020-7896 3636; www.qatarairways.com) or via Hong Kong on Cathay Pacific (020-8834 8888; www.cathaypacific.com). To reduce the impact on the environment for a return flight from London to Kuala Lumpur, you can buy an "offset" from Climate Care (01865 207 000; www.climatecare.org) for £23.40. The writer travelled with Hayes & Jarvis (0870 850 3565; www.hayesandjarvis.co.uk). The six-night Jungle Safari package starts at £1,039 per person. This includes return flights from Heathrow with Malaysia Airlines, two nights' room only at the Shangri-La Hotel in Kuala Lumpur, four nights' half board at the Mutiara Taman Negara Resort, one night in Kuala Lumpur (room only), transfers, two safari treks and a boat trip.

STAYING THERE

Mutiara Taman Negara Resort, Kuala Tahan, Pahang Darul Makmur (00 60 9 266 2200; www.malaysiaforestresorts.com).

MORE INFORMATION

Tourism Malaysia: 020-7930 7932; www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my

A calendar of special festivals and events has been planned for Visit Malaysia 2007, to celebrate 50 years of independence.

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