On The Road: Temples, tradition and relaxing with tea on the beach in Gokarna
Saturday 17 April 2010
Getting to Karnataka's Om beach was relatively easy. Now, though, standing on the dark sand with the sun setting, the sound of an acoustic guitar playing, dogs roaming around me and more hippie travellers than you could shake an incense stick at, I wondered what had inspired me to make the journey. Om beach just isn't India.
As I stroll along, I'm told I'll be lucky to find a room at this hour, unless I fancy sleeping in one of the makeshift cafés lining the beach. This doesn't appeal, so it's time to think about my other options – I can either hike back up the cliff to find a tuk-tuk in order to head back to the train station, or jump on the next (and last) longboat of the day and head to Gokarna.
I choose the latter. The boat ride takes longer than expected, the water is choppy and it's getting darker by the minute. By the time I arrive at Gokarna beach it's pitch black. As I navigate the dusty, narrow streets of this tiny city I already suspect that I've made the right decision in coming here, a feeling that is confirmed when I find myself a lovely room for the night and tuck into a delicious chana masala.
Morning arrives, as does prayer call. With temples and tradition galore, Gokarna is a centre of Sanskrit learning. With its mudstone, low-rise houses, a visit here is like stepping back in time. It's also vibrant, friendly and full of character. I head down to the beach, and when the sunshine makes me too thirsty to continue, I choose a chai stall and sit myself under its shade. As I sip the sweet and delicious tea I watch crowds of people ducking in and out of the sea, and children cooling off from the mid-morning sun – and I'm glad there wasn't any room at Om beach.
Footprint's India Handbook is available now (£16.99)
The Independent travel offers: Discover a world of inspiring destinations
- 1 Woman falls to her death as she celebrates marriage proposal at the edge of Ibiza cliff
- 2 Venezuela Expo Tattoo 2015: Extreme body art from 'Vampire Woman' to 109mm earlobes
- 4 Dad attempts revenge on teenage daughter, plan backfires spectacularly
- 5 Ball pool for adults opens in London
9 reasons Greece's experiment with the radical left is doomed to failure
Have we reached 'peak food'? Shortages loom as global production rates slow
Greece elections: Syriza and EU on collision course after election win for left-wing party
British grandmother Lindsay Sandiford faces execution by firing squad in Indonesia
Liberal Democrat minister defends comments suggesting immigration causes pub closures
King Abdullah dead: We can't afford not to hold Saudi Arabia's royals to account
£30000 - £40000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This is a great opportunity for...
£21000 - £22000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Located on the stunning Sandban...
£26 - 35k (DOE): Guru Careers: An Email Marketing Specialist is needed to join...
Negotiable: Recruitment Genius: This is a fantastic opportunity to join a is a...