Plate With A View: Gordon Ramsay at Conrad Tokyo

The newest kid on Tokyo's densely packed hotel block, the Conrad Tokyo rises up through the top 10 floors of the 37-storey Shiodome Building. Inside, all is polished stone and lacquer, dark woods and, in the case of the 28th-floor bar, the kind of cocktails that had Scarlett Johansson and Bill Murray rolling their eyes at each other in Lost in Translation.

After a couple of strawberry and basil martinis, diners can sail through to a seat in the latest outpost of Gordon Ramsay's ever-growing empire. Neutrally decorated with the odd flash of signature purple, the vibe is contemporary, comfortable, cosy.

Unintimidating it may be, but that doesn't mean the attention to detail is anything less than meticulous. Top-drawer Gallic gastronomy is delivered with disarming politeness by an impeccable Japanese waiting staff. Light lunchers need not apply. Like the rest of downtown Tokyo's food options, the modern French menu is unapologetically rich with starters such as mosaique of foie gras followed by exquisitely prepared and elegantly presented dishes such as roasted cannon of lamb and prune and Armagnac parfait with a chestnut milles feuilles.

THE VIEW

The one thing diners won't see is the big-haired, motor-mouthed, Michelin-starred chef himself - he's too busy rolling out his brand across the rest of the world's dining rooms. Instead, the restaurant is in the hands of his aptly named acolyte Andy Cook. Invite seven of your closest clients to eat at the chef's table, which occupies a privileged front-row position beside the open kitchen. The sizzling show laid on by Cook contrasts nicely with the skyscraper calm of the city through 7m floor-to-ceiling plate glass. Laid out at your feet is Tokyo Bay, the glittering office blocks of some of the world's most expensive real estate sprouting all around. Arrive early evening to watch the sun set in a liquid red ball over the Bladerunner high-rises Nihon Television and the Shiodome Tower.

THE BILL

Dinner is £35 for two courses, £45 for three courses, £65 for six courses and £95 for eight courses. Lunch is £27 for three courses. Open daily 11.30am-2.30pm; 5.30-10pm. Book ahead.

Gordon Ramsay at Conrad Tokyo, 1-9-1 Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato-Ku, Tokyo 105-7377, Japan (00 81 3 6388 8000; www.conradhotels.com)