Seoul: The kingdom of palaces and skyscrapers

With a population of 12 million-plus and 6,000 years of history, much of the best and worst of Korea is compressed into the dynamic city of Seoul. Glittering steel and glass skyscrapers pay tribute to the success of South Korea's post-civil war economy, yet among them lie green parks, pagoda palaces and venerable tea houses. It is this pleasing mixture of contemporary and traditional, the high fashion and the thronged night-markets, that makes the city beguiling.

With a population of 12 million-plus and 6,000 years of history, much of the best and worst of Korea is compressed into the dynamic city of Seoul. Glittering steel and glass skyscrapers pay tribute to the success of South Korea's post-civil war economy, yet among them lie green parks, pagoda palaces and venerable tea houses. It is this pleasing mixture of contemporary and traditional, the high fashion and the thronged night-markets, that makes the city beguiling.

After hosting the Olympics in 1988 and suffering the crash of the Far East markets in 1997, Seoul is being re-invigorated, both by the prospect of hosting next year's World Cup and the hopes of imminent re-integration with the Communist north.

Why go?

As the capital of the Hermit Kingdom ­ Seoul and Korea stood in total seclusion from the rest of the world from the 17th to the start of the 20th century ­ this city has long maintained an enigmatic air. Yet today with western-style democracy firmly entrenched in South Korea and hopes of reunifying the whole peninsula explicit, the capital is opening up to visitors.

What is revealed is an atmospheric city bursting with pride, charm and a pleasing air of chaos, despite a high-tech ambience. And the exchange rate of £1 to 1,800 won makes it highly affordable.

Why now?

Korean summers are intensely steamy affairs, and June delivers enough heat and sunshine to satisfy most. There's still a bit of freshness in the air that disappears during the sticky months of July and August. Summer is also the time when the streets of Seoul are turned into a spectacular theatre of performances and demonstrations. Daehango resembles an endless street party; Sinchon at night reaches new levels of debauchery; and there is always somebody protesting against some- thing at Gwanghwamun.

Seoul is also having an intensive spring clean, with everything being spruced up for the World Cup next May. Next summer it will be filled with football fans and prices will soar.

The mission

When first arriving in Seoul, the rugged forested hills that protrude from the whirling concrete megalopolis cause confusion: what are they doing amid all this urban sprawl? In fact, the hills originally formed a protective ring around the ancient city centre where the palaces of the rulers of the Hermit Kingdom held sway.

Today the decorative palaces of Kyongbok and Deoksugung, set among ponds and lawns which formed the regal heart of Seoul, still survive ­ partly rebuilt, partly renovated. The park of Namsan studded with the Seoul Tower provides a distinct air of enclosure and a pleasing splash of forest. And while glass and steel is the dominant feature of the city centre, in the back alleys of antique-strewn Insadong you'll find beautiful teahouses, soju (wine) joints and secluded restaurants in a definitive eastern atmosphere of lotuses and jasmine.

But one of the biggest draws of Korea is the warmth and passion of the people. In Seoul it's easy to feel part of the general spirit of the place. From the youthful partying brashness of Sinchon through to the vitality and performance of Daehango, just hanging out eating octopus tentacles from street vendors gets you in the mood. If you must experience the last vestiges of the Cold War, take a day trip to the De-Militarised Zone (DMZ) where you can peer through the barbed wire at distant poker-faced North Koreans.

Remember this

During the 1970s and 1980s South Korea established an enormous car industry. Now it's paying the price for equipping virtually the entire population with a cheap fume- belching motor, and at times Seoul resembles an enormous smog-filled car park. However, the wide boulevards and trees of the centre provide some relief, while schemes are afoot to limit traffic.

The extraordinary numbers of police and soldiers in central Seoul will either spook you or make you feel secure ­ crime is virtually non-existent anyway. The South Korean capital retains elements of its old dictatorship, and while the not-so- secret secret police near the presidential Blue House can seem quaint, the night-time armed road blocks are less so.

Eating out

Despite its reputation for dog- eating ­ yes, this still discreetly exists ­ dining Korean-style is an original and entertaining experience. A guaranteed feature of any Korean meal is Kimchi ­ a range of slightly fermented, fiery vegetables. Most tables have a grill unit used for barbecuing galbi ­ marinaded beef ­ or cooking noodles. Other famous dishes include Bibimbap (rice with vegetables and egg served in a hot bowl and mixed together by the diner), Naengmyeon (noodles served deliciously in an ice-cold broth), Samgyetang (whole chicken stuffed with rice, chestnuts, plums and ginseng roots served in steaming broth, and, if you can find it, live octopus ­ chew quickly otherwise the suckers stick to your gums). There are lots of Western-style eateries scattered around town but why travel all this way to eat pizza? Keep an eye out for a lotus plaque outside restaurants ­ it is a sign of good quality.

A good start with Korean food is the chain Yongwoodong which have picture menus in English ­ they're cheap and very cheerful. Parts of the huge Namdaemun market are also given over to street eateries, and this can be a great place to browse traditional Korean fare. A more expensive but enthralling option is to check out the royal cuisine of the Joeson dynasty ­ an enormous ornate spread ­ at Jihwaja (tel: 00 82 2 269 5834). For Galbi, go to Itaewon Galbi (tel: 00 82 2 795 9716) in the heart of Itaewon, which offers a great introduction to this entertaining dish.

Where to stay

Korean Air is selling good-value room-only vouchers for doubles at some of the best five and four-star city-centre hotels: starting price £77. At all South Korean hotels 20 per cent luxury tax and service charge will be added to the published rate.

Try to avoid most of the mid-range hotels ­ they are overpriced and overrated. The top end of the hotel scale is excellent although expensive, while real bargains can be had in the motel sector. If you want to really experience full-blown Korean culture, there are several home-stay programmes where you can live in with a Korean family. Contact LABO Korea (tel: 00 82 2 736 0521, www.labostay.co.kr) or LEX Korea (tel: 00 82 2 538 9660, www. lex.or.kr) for details. Lotte (tel: 00 82 2 771 1000) is central, luxurious, huge and expensive (£160 plus). Green Park (tel: 00 82 2 365 2577) based in Sinchon, the university district, is a clean motel; all rooms are en suite, and it's well positioned (£20 plus). Metro (tel: 00 82 2 752 1112) has basic rooms but a fantastic central location (£40 plus).

What to buy

The country's biggest buy for tourists is the herbal stimulant ginseng; and if you are willing to take the time to compare prices and quality, some real bargains can be had. It usually comes in capsule or liquid extract form but you can also get whole roots preserved in honey or just in their natural state. A good place to start looking for ginseng is in Namdaemun market as there are a couple of streets given over to the stuff. Namdaemun really comes alive after 11pm, and also sells tons of other stuff, from live fish to cheap clothes.

If you want to browse through traditional Korean artefacts, head for the antique stores on Insadong, a city-centre street famed for its crafts. Here you'll find everything from demonic masks to ornate calligraphy and antique tea-sets. Insadong can be expensive and touristy, but also has some really exquisite pieces.

Getting about

You will find an excellent, reliable, cheap subway, while on the streets the bus network reaches most places. Taxis are in two grades: standard cabs are cheap, plentiful and the drivers are a bit nutty, while tourist taxis cost more, are less frequent and the drivers speak English.

Getting there

Korean Air (tel: 0800 413000) offers flights from £460 and is the only airline that flies direct from the UK to the spanking new Incheon International Airport, which, without decent public transport, is a difficult 50km hike from Seoul city centre.

Further information

Contact the Korea National Tourist Organisation (tel: 020-7321 2535, www.visitkorea. co.uk) which can provide you with any information you need. It also has an excellent information office on Chonggyechonno in downtown Seoul, with a freephone number in South Korea (tel: 080 7572000. Korea Explorer (tel: 020-8546 6127, www.koreaexplorer.net) offers excursions and packages to Seoul and other parts of the country.

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