The Best Of: Tokyo

The economic slump of the early 1990s heralded an uncertain time for Japan. Residents of Tokyo were forced to re-examine their values.

The economic slump of the early 1990s heralded an uncertain time for Japan. Residents of Tokyo were forced to re-examine their values. Young people have broken from the traditional, weary office-bound life having seen their parents suffer. More are exploring their creativity - a fact reflected in Sofia Coppola's critically acclaimed film Lost in Translation. Apart from a quake or two, nothing will shake the new foundations for Tokyo's future being laid by this generation.

Best hotel

For supreme service and exclusivity, do as David Beckham does and stay at the new Four Seasons at Marunouchi (00 81 3 5222 7222; www.fourseasons.com/marunouchi). In a prime location next to Tokyo station, the 57 rooms are among the biggest in a city where space is at a premium. Doubles from Y60,000 (£300) per night, including breakfast. If you want to be central but don't want to spend a fortune, there's the Royal Park Shiodome Tower hotel. (00 81 3 6253 1177; www.rps-tower.co.jp/english/concept/index.html). It has stunning views over Tokyo Bay from its 28th-floor lobby. Rooms have plasma-screen computers, beautiful spas and stylish interiors. Doubles start at Y27,000 (£155) per night, including breakfast.

Best restaurant

The best places to eat are not always the most glamorous. For divine tempura, locals point directly to Ten-ichi (00 81 3 3571 1949). Sit at the counter and help yourself to a selection of light and fluffy dishes served straight from the wok. Dinner starts at Y8,500 (£43), including rice, tea and dessert.

When it comes to cachet, Tokyo residents flock to Afternoon Tea Baker & Diner (00 81 3 5159 1635), where the menu - designed by Jamie Oliver - combines Japanese ingredients with Western dishes: the vanilla-flavoured lamb is a treat. Dishes cost an average of Y7,000 (£35) each.

Best cultural attraction

Don't miss the Tokyo National Museum (00 81 3 3822 1111). Japan's oldest and largest museum houses more than 89,000 items including paintings, ceramics, swords, kimonos and sculpture. Among the highlights are the Buddhist relics from the seventh-century Horyu-ji Temple in Nara - Japan's first Buddhist temple. Admission is Y420 (£2).

Tokyo loves festivals and there's still time to catch this year's Battledore Fair at Senso-ji Temple from 17-19 December. Popular since feudal times, it features traditional decorated paddles which make great gifts. For something a little more raucous, try Dezome-shiki, the New Year Parade of Firemen, on 6 January. This features agile firemen in traditional costumes who perform acrobatic stunts on top of tall bamboo ladders.

Best shopping

Take a stroll through Tokyo's numerous side streets. The best crafts are found in small shops owned by the same family for generations. Also try the Oriental Bazaar (00 81 3 3400 3933) at 5-9-13 Jingumai, Shibuya-ku. For mainstream shopping, head for the Omotesando district to browse for designer clothes but be sure to bring a wallet brimming with yen. For something a little more affordable and street-wise go to the Harajuku area, while one-stop department stores cluster around the Ginza, and Akihabara is the place for electronics and gadgets.

Best sightseeing

The Ginza, the most famous thoroughfare in Tokyo, typifies the city's unique buzz as ancient meets modern. Catch monks hailing taxis and geishas chatting on their mobiles. The Tokyo Tower (00 81 3 3433 5111) at 4-2-8 Shiba-Koen, Minato-ku, was built in 1958 and though no longer Tokyo's tallest structure (at 333 metres), its ironwork - compared to the Eiffel Tower - is a sight in itself. Tokyo's finest site, however, is the Imperial Palace. It opens for just two days every year - 23 December (the Emperor's birthday), and 2 January.

Best nightspot

Cool clubs in Tokyo change fast. Most clubs claim they close at midnight but actually close between 4am and 5am. Club Hachi (00 81 3 5766 4887) may look dingy but the tunes are great. Admission is Y2,000 (£10) including one drink. For something more traditional, try Kabuki-za (00 81 3 5565 6000). One of the most exciting of the performing arts in Japan, kabuki blends dance, drama, gorgeous costumes and make-up.

How to get there

Onlinetravel.com (0870 887 0100) offers five nights at the Royal Park Shiodome Hotel from £916, based on two sharing. Price includes non-stop flights to Tokyo Narita with Virgin Atlantic for selected departure dates until 31 January. Narita is about 70km from Tokyo but is well served by rail and bus. Getting around the city is fast and efficient on the subway - disruption is so rare that delayed office workers are given apology notes to pass on to their employers. Most stations have signs in English and the lines are colour coded.Remember trains stop around midnight.

Ryan Levitt travelled to Tokyo with the assistance of the Japan National Tourist Board and Virgin Atlantic

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