The Complete Guide To: The Ganges

What is it?

The mightiest river in India – and Bangladesh. It is known locally as Ganga. (The title has nothing to do with the substance of a similar name found in these parts.) Its source is in Gangotri in the Indian Himalaya, north-east of Delhi and close to the Chinese border. The river runs through the states of Uttar Pradesh and Bihar, draining a large part of the northern plains, clips the top of West Bengal and then enters Bangladesh. Here, the Ganges merges with the Brahmaputra river and spills out into the Bay of Bengal. It is not the biggest river that passes through India – leaving aside the Indus, which only skims the very northern tip of the country, the Brahmaputra is. But, in spiritual terms, the Ganges reigns supreme.

What is it?

The mightiest river in India – and Bangladesh. It is known locally as Ganga. (The title has nothing to do with the substance of a similar name found in these parts.) Its source is in Gangotri in the Indian Himalaya, north-east of Delhi and close to the Chinese border. The river runs through the states of Uttar Pradesh and Bihar, draining a large part of the northern plains, clips the top of West Bengal and then enters Bangladesh. Here, the Ganges merges with the Brahmaputra river and spills out into the Bay of Bengal. It is not the biggest river that passes through India – leaving aside the Indus, which only skims the very northern tip of the country, the Brahmaputra is. But, in spiritual terms, the Ganges reigns supreme.

What makes it so special?

In short, Hindu mythology. Detours from the water will take you to the Buddhist attractions of Bodhgaya and Sarnath, and important Muslim sites at Agra and Fatehpur Sikri. But in terms of religious significance, it's difficult to disassociate the Ganges from Hinduism.

For Hindus, the number seven is thought particularly auspicious, and the Ganges is one of India's seven sacred rivers. It also runs through Varanasi and Haridwar, two of the seven sacred Hindu cities. If you die at the lucky intersection of the sacred Ganges and the holy city of Varanasi it is believed you will be transported straight to heaven, freeing you from the cycle of reincarnation. Which explains the large number of people waiting patiently for their days to end by the city's ghats (the series of steps leading down to the river).

Not that all visitors to the Ganges have such gloomy thoughts on their minds. Since any trip to the holy river is believed to bring you blessings, the Ganges is generously strewn with pilgrimage sites, from temples to festival venues and from mountains to cities. For the traveller, that means lots of culture and history. There's also plenty of wildlife to explore; the area of Bangladesh where the Ganges empties out into the Bay of Bengal is a delta rich with tigers, wild boar and sea turtles. And the river's freshwater parts are home to Gangetic dolphins (thought to be messengers of the god Shiva in Hindu mythology), fish and crocodiles.

Where should I start?

At what's recognised as its sacred source, Gangotri temple. To make a pilgrimage to the site, the easiest way to get there is to fly to Delhi. Then aim north-east to the holy city of Haridwar – by rickety bus (Rs120, or £2; around eight hours), the comfy and efficient Shatabdi Express train (Rs60, £1, second class or Rs950, £16, first; around four and a half hours), or fly to nearby Dehra Dun. From Haridwar, take an hour's bus ride (around Rs20, or 30p, one way) to Rishikesh, the town where the Beatles received their spiritual enlightenment. From here you can take a bus (about six hours, Rs 200, or £3.30), a share-jeep (slightly quicker, around Rs 250, or £4) or taxi (much quicker, around Rs1,500, or £25). Outside the main tourist season (October to April), you'll probably have to change bus or jeep at Uttarkashi along the way.

Technically the real source is 18km higher up, at Gaumukh, and the river is still called the Bhagirathi at this point (it changes its name to the Ganges at Deoprayag, just above Rishikesh), but Gangotri still manages to be one of the holiest places in India. The temple was built here in the 18th century by Gurkha commander Amar Singh Thapa. Although it's now surrounded by tea stalls and assertive vendors selling rolls of film, it's still an atmospheric place. There is a ghat and, nearby, the rock on which Shiva is said to have first received the river.

Can I go to the real source?

Yes, if your legs are up to it. Bank on a long day's trek (more if you've got your own tent and want to go slower) from Gangotri, following a bridle path that clings to the river. Ganges aside, it's worth it just for the dramatic views. Fortunately for weary trekkers, there's also a Tourist Rest House with beds as well as tent space about 4km before Gaumukh.

Few people come to this part of India just to see the source of the Ganges, though. The lush forests, gushing waterfalls and soaring mountains imply a thigh-busting choice of treks in the area. It's popular with Indian holidaymakers, too, since the spiritual sources of the Yamuna, Mandakini and Alakanda rivers, as well as the Ganges, all offer important pilgrimage sites.

If you fancy spending longer here, Rishikesh makes a good base for exploring. Not only is it one of the most attractive (and unusually peaceful) towns in the area, but it's also well set up for tourists, with plenty of accommodation, and several companies hiring out trekking gear and arranging guides. Trekking prices start at around Rs2,500 (£40), all-inclusive, per day, although you can hire just a guide for around Rs600 (£10) per day. But there's more to Rishikesh than hire shops. Since the Beatles famously came here to find their guru, the Maharishi Mahesh Yogi, in the Sixties, it's become the country's unofficial yoga capital. Most visitors stay long enough to do a yoga or meditation course in one of the town's ashrams – but look around before committing yourself, and beware the (increasingly common) fake guru. If you want the real thing rather than a rip-off version, you should be willing to stay for a decent amount of time and abide by the ashram's rules – lots of daily prayer and meditation, but abstinence from cigarettes, alcohol and meat.

The Yoga Niketan Ashram (off Lakshman Jhula Road, 00 91 13 543 0227) is typical of many in Rishikesh. It offers 15-day meditation and hatha yoga classes throughout the year from Rs250 (£4.20) per person per day, including basic accommodation and food.

And if I want to meditate on getting downstream?

The jewel in the Ganges' crown is Varanasi (of which more later) but, if you have the time and energy, there are plenty of other places worth stopping at on your way down river.

Head first to Haridwar, one of the seven sacred Hindu rivers, and a particularly auspicious one since it marks the spot where the Ganges leaves the Himalayas behind to begin its meandering journey through the plains. It's less pretty than Rishikesh but in many ways it's a more authentic pilgrimage point – and the yoga courses, if you're tempted, are a lot more hard-core. The main attraction here is Har-ki-Pairi (the footstep of the god), just off Upper Road. It is supposedly the exact point where the Ganges leaves the hills and is marked by Vishnu's footprint in a stone. The river's power to cleanse the soul is thought to be at its strongest here, and consequently there's a regular stream of pilgrims trickling into the water to bathe or, at dusk, watching priests perform the ceremony of Ganga Aarti, releasing a rush of floating candles on to the water as offerings. Entrance is free but you will probably be asked to make a donation.

On your way down to Har-ki-Pairi you pass through a colourful bazaar crammed with stalls selling all kinds of religious supplies and frying up frighteningly coloured, syrupy snacks.

And further still?

Bypass Kanpur, the largest city in Uttar Pradesh, and site of some of the most disturbing events of the 1857 Uprising against British colonial domination of India. Carry on by train or bus to Allahabad, around 1,000km downstream. It is at the confluence of the Ganges and Yamuna rivers (and, if you believe Hindu mythology, the fabled River of Enlightenment). Again, this geographical good fortune makes it a propitious place to take a dip – especially every January or February, when thousands of Hindus come here to bathe during the Magh Mela festival. It's also the most important site of the rotating three-yearly Kumbh Mela festival. This is the most sacred Hindu ceremony, and takes place at four locations: Haridwar, further upstream; Ujjain, on the banks of Ksipra river; Nasik, on the banks of Godavari river; and Prayag, just outside Allahabad. Every 12 years the biggest religious gathering in world takes place at Allahabad – but the next is not until 2013.

Festivals aside, Allahabad is a fairly low-key city. No tour of the Ganges would be complete without a boat trip from Allahabad's fort to Sangam, the supposed meeting place of the three rivers. These should cost about Rs80 (£1.30) per boat, a bargain if you share, but you have to haggle.

Stop messing about on the river. Take me to Varanasi

The holiest of all the cities on the Ganges is Varanasi, held to have been founded by the Hindu god Shiva. It is halfway between Delhi and Calcutta. You can get there on a fast and luxurious express train from Delhi (nine hours; Rs1,100 or £18), a much slower and more masochistic one (17 hours; Rs180 or £3), or a flight (around $125, or £85, return). If you want to follow the Ganges, Varanasi is well served from Haridwar, with regular express trains taking 20 hours (Rs 300, or £5, second class or Rs1,250, or £21, first).

The old city, where most visitors gather, is a romantic vision of teeming ghats, soaring temples and the endless ripple of sunshine catching on the river's murky water. Most of the ghats are used by Hindu or Jain pilgrims for bathing but others, known as "burning ghats", are used for cremation. Visitors are welcome but, especially if you visit a burning ghat, be sensitive about taking pictures – and intruding on grief.

Two of the largest and most interesting ghats are Dasaswamedh and Manikarnika. You can walk to them but it's more fun to see them by boat in the early morning.

Watching the torrent of pilgrims and holy men striding into the water for a morning dip, it is tempting to join them, if not for the state of the water. But, until the problems with pollution are sorted out, it's safer to go out into the Ganges in a rowing boat. This is one of the highlights of a trip to the city. Though you'll be paddling through pilgrims, it's less voyeuristic than it sounds. Boats are easily hired from outside Dasaswamedh ghat and cost up to about Rs100 (£1.70) per hour – but, again, be prepared to haggle hard before you are taken for a ride.

If you're in need of a festival, fast, head straight over – you should be in time for Ganga Mahotsava, a dramatic celebration of the Ganges that takes place from 15 to 20 November in Varanasi. Thousands of Hindu pilgrims go and dip themselves into the sacred waters and set tiny oil lamps off downstream.

What about more secular attractions?

There's a lot more to Varanasi than religious zeal. In fact, despite the inevitable touts and scam merchants, there can be few other Indian cities where it's as pleasant to spend a few days, getting lost in tiny alleyways (enjoying the glimpses into modern-day Indian life you get along the way), having a massage, arranging to have a cheap silk outfit made up, taking sitar lessons or just hanging out on the rooftop of your hotel, scanning the skyline and enjoying what breeze there is in this sticky, low-lying city.

The best budget place to stay is the Shanti Guest House, off an alley leading to Manikarnika Ghat (00 91 54 239 2568). Basic but decent en suite rooms (some with wonderful views) cost from Rs100 (£1.70) and there's a great roof terrace. Don't be misled by signs to the Real Shanti Guest House or any other version on the theme. The original's still the best.

If you don't mind being outside the old city, check in at the doddery old Hotel de Paris (15, The Mall, 00 91 54 234 6601) start from Rs800 (£13). A lovely building, surrounded by ramshackle gardens, it's become fairly run down so don't expect frills but do expect big rooms and oodles of atmosphere.

For luxury, go to the nearby Hotel Clarks Varanasi (The Mall, 00 91 54 234 8501). Prices here start at $63 (£42).

And further Downstream?

About 200km east from Varanasi, the Ganges broadens and passes Patna. After another 400km, as the river flows, it changes its name to the Padma and forms the border with Bangladesh. At the city of Rajshahi it enters Bangladesh proper, merges with the Brahmaputra and dissipates into the delta known as the Mouth of the Ganges. The water that began 2,510km away in the Himalayas empties out into the Bay of Bengal.

How do I get there?

Getting to India: non-stop flights from London Heathrow to Delhi are operated by Air India, British Airways and Virgin Atlantic. Fares booked through discount agents are around £500 return. You can get better bargains on carriers such as Aeroflot via Moscow, Air France via Paris, Emirates via Dubai and Lufthansa via Paris or Frankfurt.

Getting to Bangladesh: the best fares on the national airline Biman (020-7629 0252) are available through Air Travel Guide (020-7287 9022) – £540 return in economy, with few seats available before Christmas, but only £770 return in business class – where there are seats.

Is the ganges bound up in red tape?

Visas for India: British passport holders require a visa to visit India. The standard tourist visa costs £30 and is valid for six months from the date of issue. First, you need an application form, available by faxback from 0906 844 4543, through the website www.hcilondon.org, or by post by sending a stamped addressed envelope to the Visa Section of the High Commission of India, India House, Aldwych, London WC2B 4NA. "You are advised not to finalise your travel arrangements until your visa has been issued," warns the High Commission.

Visa for Bangladesh: you can get an application form from the High Commission of Bangladesh at 28 Queen's Gate, London SW7 5JA (020-7584 0081). You must submit two passport-sized photographs, a copy of a hotel reservation (or an invitation from someone in Bangladesh), and a fee of £40. Personal callers can get a visa on the same day; by post the service takes around a week.

Do I need to be careful?

The Foreign Office issues the following warnings:

India: "We believe that India is one of a number of countries where there is an increased risk to visibly British institutions and organisations from global terrorism. Following the recent terrorist attack in Gujarat, British travellers should be extra vigilant. Most visits to Eastern India are trouble-free but visitors should be aware of the risk of violent crime in rural areas of Bihar."

Bangladesh: "Armed robbery, pickpocketing and purse-snatching are a threat, day or night, in areas frequented by foreigners. The perpetrators are often in pairs on motorcycles or three-wheeled 'baby taxis'. Passengers using rickshaws and 'baby taxis' are particularly vulnerable, the more so at night. Visitors and residents should try to avoid using such transport when travelling alone at any time. Nor should they wear jewellery in the street. Travel between towns after dark is particularly risky because of banditry. Passenger trains, buses and ferries are often targeted by bands of thieves."

Are there any organised tours?

Surprisingly, there don't seem to be any tboats, public or private, that run the whole length of the Ganges but, if you're willing to do sections at a time, many include parts of it. Explore Worldwide (01252 760 000, www.exploreworldwide.com) has an 18-day Delhi to Kathmandu trip that includes sailing into Varanasi at sunrise. Prices start at £1,295 and include return flights from the UK, accommodation and some food.

Dragoman (01728 861133, www.dragoman.com) does a three-week Maharajas, Tigers and Taj trip that takes in Varanasi, as well as Kathmandu, Delhi, Agra and Rajasthan, from £665 per person plus a local kitty of £160, including travel and accommodation but not flights.

Travelbag Adventures (01420 541007, www.travelbag-adventures.com) has a 15-day Himalayan Foothills tour that includes Delhi, Agra, Nainital, Corbett and Rishikesh (with an option to raft down the Ganges) from £1,059, including flights, transport, accommodation and most meals.

Wildlife Worldwide (020-8667 9158, www.wildlifeworldwide.com) does a 15-day Kaziranga and Sunderbans trip from £1,695 per person, including flights, transport, activities, accommodation and almost all food.

Finally, if you want to go tailor-made, Greaves Travel (020-7487 9111, www.greavesindia.com) could put together a luxury 12-day tour, taking in Delhi, Rishikesh and Corbett National Park, from £1,845 per person, including return flights, hotels, transfers and guided sightseeing.

Where can I get more information?

The Government of India Department of Tourism is at 7 Cork Street, London W1X 2AB (020-7437 3677, www.tourismindia.com). Good guide books include Lonely Planet's North India (£13.99) and Bangladesh (£11.99), and Rough Guide's India (£15.99).

For background on Indian spirituality, try Sacred India (£12.99, Lonely Planet). More travel-related books include: Benares – The Sacred City by EB Havell (£7.50, Pilgrims Publishing) and Slowly Down the Ganges by the great Eric Newby (£6.99, Picador).

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