Getting there:

The writer travelled with Intrepid Travel (020-3147 7777; www.intrepidtravel.com), on its 15-day Nepal Adventure trip, which costs from £445 per person. The price includes all transfers and transport, accommodation in teahouses and guesthouses, one night at a river camp, four nights' trek camping and some meals. A local payment of US$200 (£105) and international flights are not included in the price. There are no direct flights between the UK and Nepal. Kathmandu can be reached with Qatar (0870 770 4215; www.qatarairways.com) from Heathrow and Manchester via Doha; Gulf Air (0870 777 1717; www.gulfairco.com) from Heathrow via Bahrain; and Jet Airways (0870 910 1000; www.jetairways.com) from Heathrow via Delhi. To reduce the impact on the environment, you can buy an "offset" through Abta's Reduce my Footprint initiative (020-7637 2444; www.reducemyfootprint.travel).

Visiting there:

There is a US$10 (£5.25) fee to visit Bhaktapur and Durbar Square respectively, payable locally. Everest flights can be arranged through Mountain Flights ( www.mountainflights.com).

Red tape & more information:

British passport-holders require a visa to visit Nepal. These can be purchased before travel from the Nepalese Embassy (020-7229 1594; www.nepembassy.org.uk) or on arrival at Kathmandu airport. Single-entry visas cost £20, or US$30 (£15.80) on arrival. The Foreign and Commonwealth Office (0845 850 2829; www.fco.gov.uk) advises: "The wider security situation in Nepal remains subject to change due to the political volatility in the country... If you intend to travel to the region you should remain vigilant and remain in close touch with your tour operator."

Nepal Tourism Board: 00 977 1 425 6909; www.welcomenepal.com






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