48 Hours In: Perth, Australia

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WHY GO NOW

The southern hemisphere spring, between now and November, is the ideal time to visit Western Australia's multi-cultural capital. Perth has a superb setting above the Swan River, and the historic port of Fremantle is close at hand. Note for cricket-lovers: England play Western Australia and the third Ashes Test in Perth in December.

TOUCH DOWN

Only Qantas (08457 747 767; www.qantas.com.au) offers direct flights, with a refuelling stop en route. Alternatively, you can change planes in cities such as Singapore, Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur or Dubai - which has the most UK departure points, with Emirates (0870 243 2222; www.emirates.com) flying from Gatwick, Heathrow, Birmingham, Manchester or Glasgow. Perth's international terminal is awkwardly located about 20km from the city centre, with no public transport. The Airport-City shuttle (00 61 8 9277 7958) will drop you off near most of Perth's main areas for accommodation; the fare is A$15 (£6.20). But a taxi to the city centre costs around A$33 (£13.75) - probably the better option for two or more people travelling together.

GET YOUR BEARINGS

The Swan River expands at the lake-like Perth Water, then narrows as it snakes its way towards

Fremantle, on the Indian Ocean. The centre of Perth is a grid of streets north of Perth Water. The Visitor Centre (1), on the corner of Forrest Place and Wellington Street (00 61 8 9483 1111; www.westernaustralia.net), opens 8.30am-5pm Monday-Friday (until 6pm on Friday), 9.30am-4.30pm on Saturday and noon-4.30pm on Sunday. To the north of the crooked William Street Bridge beside Perth Station (2) is the area of Northbridge, the hub of most of the nightlife. Bars and eateries also abound in suburbs such as Leederville and Subiaco. The excellent buses, trains and ferries of Transperth (00 61 8 9428 1999; www.transperth.wa.gov.au) offer free rides within the "central business district". This includes the three "Cat" midi-bus services, which run frequently on circular routes throughout the city centre - including Kings Park, the majestic open space on the city's doorstep. Outside the central area, fares start at A$2.10 (90p). A one-day pass valid on all city public transport costs A$7.70 (£3.20).

CHECK IN

Governor Robinson's (3) is an upmarket hostel at 7 Robinson Avenue, Northbridge (00 61 8 9328 3200; www.govrobinsons.com.au), where A$70 (£29) will get you a comfortable en-suite double room, excluding breakfast. The latest addition to the city's luxury accommodation (due to open in mid-October) will be The Richardson (4), 32 Richardson Street, West Perth (00 61 8 9217 8888; www.therichardson.com.au), a five-star boutique hotel with a spa. Prices are from A$340 (£126) per double, excluding breakfast. In the centre of Perth, the Duxton (5) at 1 St George's Terrace (bookable through 0870 128 6000; www.duxton.com.au) has 306 well-appointed rooms, plus a gym and outdoor pool. Double rooms from A$179 (£72), including breakfast.

TAKE A HIKE

From the railway station (2), go south along Forrest Place - often the venue for free cultural events - to Murray Street Mall, where a few older buildings have survived alongside some ungraceful new ones. Turn left and follow Murray Street past the Old Fire Station (6) to Victoria Square (7), passing to the right of Gothic-style St Mary's Cathedral (under wraps for 18 months of building work). Turn right down Hill Street, passing the Perth Mint (8); on Sundays, traditional English tea is offered in the Mint's Tea Garden (00 61 8 9421 7218; www.perthmint.com.au). Turn right onto Adelaide Terrace and then left through the beautiful Supreme Court Gardens (9); you should see St George's Cathedral (10) to the right. Continue through the gardens to emerge at Barrack Square (11). The futuristic structure in front of you is the Swan Bells (00 61 8 9218 8183; www.swanbells.com.au), built to house the bells of St Martin's, given by the UK for Australia's bicentennial in 1988; you can visit daily from 10am (closing times vary), admission A$6 (£2.50).

LUNCH ON THE RUN

Centrally located, the King Street Café (12) at 44 King Street (00 61 8 9321 4476) has long been a favourite, particularly for cakes and pastries. For tasty, reasonably-priced Indonesian food, Sparrow (13) 434 William Street, Northbridge (00 61 8 9328 5660) is reliable - and usually busy.

CULTURAL AFTERNOON

Perth Cultural Centre (14) comprises a collection of artistic and historical enterprises, including the excellent Western Australian Museum (00 61 8 9212 3700; www.museum.wa.gov.au). This traces the lineage of the Aboriginal inhabitants - the oldest continuous culture in the world - plus the more recent history of the state and its capital. The museum opens 9.30am-5pm daily, with admission "by gold coin donation" - ie an Australian dollar or two. Adjacent is the impressive Art Gallery of Western Australia (00 61 8 9492 6600; www.artgallery.wa.gov.au), open 10am-5pm daily, admission free.

AN APERITIF

On the corner of Northbridge's William Street and James Street stands a Perth institution, the raucous Brass Monkey pub (15). For a more refined drinking experience, try Must Winebar (16) at 519 Beaufort Street, Highgate (00 61 8 9328 8255; www.must.com.au).

DINING WITH THE LOCALS

Viet Hoa (17) at 349 William Street, Northbridge (00 61 8 9328 2127) draws crowds for delicious and good-value Vietnamese dishes. Hip Rialtos (18), 426 Hay Street, Subiaco (00 61 8 9382 3292; www.rialtos.com.au) offers stylish Italian fare. For Modern Australian cuisine with a strong Asian influence, try Star Anise (19) at 225 Onslow Road, Shenton Park (00 61 8 9381 9811; www.staraniserestaurant.com.au).

SUNDAY MORNING: GO TO CHURCH

Perth's Anglican St George's Cathedral (10) (00 61 8 9325 5766; www.perthcathedral.org), constructed of handmade bricks, was consecrated in 1888. A spire had been planned, but instead a clock tower was added in 1902 in memory of Queen Victoria.

TAKE A RIDE

See the city skyline and the Swan River on a cruise downriver to Fremantle. Oceanic Cruises (00 61 8 9325 1191; www.oceaniccruises.com.au) sails five times a day from Barrack Square (11). The trip past millionaires' riverside homes takes just under an hour, for a one-way fare of A$17 (£6.70). Once in Fremantle, don overalls, a hard hat and headlamp and descend into the labyrinth of tunnels under Fremantle Prison (00 61 8 9336 9200; www.fremantleprison.com.au). This includes a trip aboard a replica convict punt. Tours (from 9.30am-3pm daily) cost A$55 (£23).

OUT TO BRUNCH

Fremantle's South Terrace has long been known as "Cappuccino Strip" . The favoured institution is Gino's Café at 1-5 South Terrace (00 61 8 9336 1464): on the menu are sublime coffees, brunch staples and original creations such as caramelised banana double-cream pancakes.

WINDOW SHOPPING

If you're about to explore Australia, visit the Chart and Map Shop at 14 C ollie Street in Fremantle (00 61 8 9335 8665; www.chartandmapshop.com.au), which opens 10am-4pm Sundays. Don't miss Fremantle's lively market, open 10am-5pm from Friday to Sunday. Afterwards, you can return to Perth by train in 20 minutes for A$3.20 (£1.25).

A WALK IN THE PARK

Kings Park was created in 1872 and has been preserved ever since as a slab of (mostly) original bushland. The park also contains the Botanic Garden (20) and the Federation Walkway, a 620m elevated path, which slices through the tree-tops. The park's website (www.bgpa.wa.gov.au/kingspark) has details on free guided walks.

ICING ON THE CAKE

Take advantage of the profusion of white sand Indian Ocean beaches close to the city centre, including Scarborough, Swanbourne and, in reach of the city centre on a 72 bus, Cottesloe.

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