48 Hours In Biarritz

WHY GO NOW?

WHY GO NOW?

This month is traditionally the time to enjoy Biarritz's curative waters. Since the 18th century well-heeled northern Europeans have been flocking to this French seaside town for restorative rest and relaxation, and since the 1960s Biarritz has been one of France's leading centres for thalassothérapie - seawater treatment. French health and beauty savants will tell you that November is the time to be pummelled, massaged and soaked into submission before winter sets in. And if this sort of water treatment doesn't appeal, Biarritz is also the place to catch some waves: since American movie stars started surfing here in the 1950s, this 19th-century coastal resort has become one of Europe's key surf hubs.

TOUCH DOWN

Ryanair (0871 246 0000; www.ryanair.com) flies daily from Stansted to Biarritz-Anglet-Bayonne International Airport, which is so close (3km) to the city centre that you could walk there. If not, bus number six runs from the airport every 30 minutes between 7.30am-7.30pm, makes several stops in the centre of Biarritz and costs €1.50 (£1). A taxi costs €15 (£11).

GET YOUR BEARINGS

Biarritz runs along a rugged stretch of coastline and the main sights are right on the seafront. The long, elegant Grande Plage, which has been attracting sun-seeking northern Europeans since the 1800s, is punctuated by two rocky outcrops: the Pointe Saint Martin, crowned by a lighthouse, sits at the northern end of the beach, while jutting out into the Atlantic to the south lies the Port-Vieux (Old Port). The long, wild beaches of Marbella and Côte des Basques lie to the south of the sheltered Port-Vieux. Tourism Biarritz (00 33 559 22 37 00; www.biarritz.tm.fr) is at Square d'Ixelles and is open from 9am-6pm daily (10am-5pm on Sundays).

CHECK IN

The Hôtel Du Palais at 1 Avenue de l'Impératrice (00 33 559 41 64 00; www.hotel-du-palais.com) is Biarritz's smartest address - a grand 19th-century villa that started life as a seaside home for Napoleon's wife, Empress Eugénie. Double rooms cost from €350 (£250), excluding breakfast. Villa Goëland at 12 Plateau de l'Atalaye (00 33 559 24 25 76; www.villagoeland-biarritz.com) is less grand but has its own clifftop pedestal overlooking the Port-Vieux. This Chambre d'Hotes has just three double rooms which cost from €130 (£93) excluding breakfast. Maison Garnier at 29 rue Gambetta (00 33 559 01 60 70; www.hotel-biarritz.com) is a tranquil, seven-room hotel decorated in earthy colours with a smattering of tasteful antiques and rooms with partially exposed beams and wooden shutters. Doubles start from €85 (£61) excluding breakfast. Hôtel Le Caritz is flip-flopping distance from Biarritz's beautiful beach at Place du Port-Vieux (00 33 559 24 41 84; www.lecaritz-biarritz.com). It is owned by local hero Serge Blanco, the former star of French rugby, yet rooms sport surprisingly delicate chiffon bed-throws and satin curtains. Each is named after a flower with a colour scheme to match. Doubles start from €72 (£51) excluding breakfast.

TAKE A VIEW

The town's lighthouse gives a bird's-eye view along the coast towards Spain - opening times in winter vary, so you will need to telephone the tourist office for details. Admission is €1.55 (£1). But the Rocher de la Vierge, about 100m out to sea, is a far more atmospheric spot from which to look back on Biarritz's elegance. This tumbling outcrop of

rocks, connected to the shore by little bridges, looks like something created when Gaudì hopped across the Spanish border for a quick field trip.

TAKE A HIKE

Any point on the undulating rocky path that connects the Rocher with the Grande Plage and the Port-Vieux affords jaw-dropping views of little bays, eddying rock pools and tiered gardens, planted with the city's characteristic fluffy-looking tamarisk trees. Start in the Port-Vieux and follow the coastal path north to the colourful crampottes (seamen's huts) in the Port de Pecheurs. Chase the surf north along the Grande Plage and pop into the Chapelle Impériale, another grand building that went up at the behest of Empress Eugénie. Walk back towards the centre along Avenue Edouard VII enjoying the city's eclectic turn-of-the-century architecture - English villas, neo-Renaissance chateaux, Andalucian haciendas and Swiss chalets. En route, stop for a morning cuppa with a sea view at the prissy Miremont salon du Thé at 1 Place Clemenceau, which has ceilings decorated as elaborately as its celebrated cakes and chocolates. Finish off with a wander around the leafy Jardin Public flanked by the main food market, Les Halles, and the Art Nouveau Gare du Midi - formerly a railway station, but now a theatre housing the prestigious Ballets Biarritz.

LUNCH ON THE RUN

Head for Les Halles (open 7am-1pm daily) and have a quick tapas at Chez Etienne, the tiled bar at the western end of the market where dishes cost around €1.5 (£1.10) for each teeny plate.

CULTURAL AFTERNOON

The Musée de la Mer at Esplanade du Rocher de la Vierge is an aquarium exhibiting north Atlantic species, with good displays on Biarritz's fishing industry and whaling heritage. It opens 9.30am-12.30pm and 2-6pm daily except Mondays, and admission is €7.20 (£5). The crypt of the Sainte-Eugénie church, at Place Sainte-Eugénie stages high-profile temporary art exhibitions. Coffee Painting (on display until 24 November) is a collection of works made from crushed coffee beans by the artist Jean-Marie Peigna. It opens 2pm-6pm daily and admission is free.

WINDOW SHOPPING

The surf shops Quiksilver and O'Neill fly flags over the Grande Plage from their smart home in Biarritz's huge Art Deco casino. Nip inside the casino entrance to get a view of the sea that looks like you're on the prow of a ship. Rue Mazagran is the elegant shopping street leading down to the Place du Port-Vieux, home to more surf shops and boutiques selling Basque cloth, red berets and colourful espadrilles. Paries (00 33 559 22 07 52) at 1 Place Bellevue, sells gift boxes of delicious mouchous Basques (local version of macaroons) and kanougas - chocolate toffees made with secret recipe imported by Spanish and Portuguese Jews who were banished from the Iberian peninsula during the Inquisition.

AN APERITIF

Pick one of the many bars hidden into the nooks and crannies of the promenade between the Grande Plage and the Port-Vieux. The coolest beach bar du jour is Côte 57 at Côte des Basque (00 33 559 22 27 83) - a great place to watch the sun set as you have a drink and recline in the comfy sunloungers.

DINING WITH THE LOCALS

Saint-Amour at 26 rue Gambetta (00 33 559 24 19 64) is an intimate bistro with a superb selection of regional wines. Meat and fish dishes are conjured up from produce bought at the market opposite. Try the herb-crusted lamb, mustard-grain roast veal or the simple grilled gambas. Two courses with house wine costs around €30 (£21). Also near the market, Bar Jean at 5 rue des Halles (00 33 559 24 80 38) is a lively bar/restaurant with a huge selection of Basque tapas from around €6 (£4.40) per plate.

SUNDAY MORNING: GO TO CHURCH

Saint-Martin is the oldest of Biarritz's churches. It dates from the 12th century and has a vast, ornate 16th-century choir and organ. Sainte-Eugénie hosts performances of Biarritz's Basque male voice choir - the main choral festival is in September but performances take place throughout the year; for details contact the church (00 33 559 24 07 43).

OUT TO BRUNCH

Le Passage at 30 Avenue Edouard VII (00 33 559 22 59 55) is a boutique-cum-restaurant owned by the brother of the French crooner Gerard Lenorman that sells great home-made breads, jams and sorbets. In fact, everything you see, from the tables to the plates is for sale. At weekends, you can enjoy the four-course brunch menu for €19 (£14) from 11am to 4pm.

A WALK IN THE PARK

Established in 1888, Golf de Biarritz - Le Phare at 2 Avenue Edith Cavell (00 33 559 03 71 80; www.golfbiarritz.com) is one of Europe's oldest golf courses and has superb sea views from the cliff tops. The club is open to the public and even if you don't play, the area surrounding the clubhouse is a very pleasant place for a stroll.

TAKE A RIDE

Biarritz has been known as "Europe's California" since 1957 when the surfing enthusiast and scriptwriter Peter Viertel arrived from America with his wife Deborah Kerr to film The Sun Also Rises. By the 1960s the sport had taken off, and was even introduced into the local school curriculum. The Biarritz Association of Surf Clubs (00 33 559 23 24 42; www.surfingbiarritz.com) gives lessons, including two-hour courses for beginners for €30 (£21).

THE ICING ON THE CAKE

The Institut Thalassotherapie in the Sofitel Thalassa Miramar Hotel, 13 rue Louison Bobet (00 33 559 41 30 01; www.accorthalassa.com) is the place to "take the waters" in Biarritz. Treatments here include seaweed wraps, seawater jet therapy and hydro-massage. A package of three treatments lasting 90 minutes costs €89 (£63.50).

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