Andalucia: On a rural retreat

Cortijos - rural country houses - are a great accommodation option, says Cathy Packe

The sound of a cockerel crowing is a sure sign of being in the country, so I suppose I shouldn't have been surprised to be woken early after my first night in the Cortijo Mesa de la Plata. But apart from the rather rude awakening, I had had a very comfortable night, although the room I was staying in was simple: two single beds, an alcove hidden by a curtain which passed as a wardrobe, and an upright chair.

It was part of what looked, when I arrived at the cortijo, like a rustic semi-detached bungalow. My front door opened into a living room, with a sofa bed, television, dining table and four chairs. There was a fireplace built into one wall and, had I needed it, wood would have been supplied so that I could light a fire for myself. At one end of the room was a kitchen area, equipped with a fridge, sink and microwave, and there was a supply of basic china and cutlery. A bathroom opened off at one side, and at the far end was the bedroom. The windows all had curtains, but were covered on the outside, in typical Andalucian style, by Venetian blinds, to keep out the summer sun. Outside, there was a veranda and a space to park a car, and, not far away, my own barbecue for a bit of outdoor self-catering.

The bungalow, officially described as an apartment, was part of a larger complex known as a cortijo. These are old-style country houses, found only in Andalucia; other regions have farmhouses, too, of course, but they are not known by the same name. Typically, the houses were built around a central courtyard, with a main entrance from an external yard, and they would usually have been the main building in an extensive estate. Smaller buildings, like the little house I was staying in, would be scattered around the grounds not far from the main house, and these would have been used originally for the farm workers and their families to live in. There was always a well somewhere nearby, the only source of water on the property. The well remains in most cortijos, although it is some time since any would have been used as the main water supply.

Over a simple breakfast I chatted to Maria Luisa Guerrero, owner of the Cortijo Mesa de la Plata. She admitted that this cortijo, though identical in style to the more traditional properties, was a modern replica, built 10 years ago when she and her partner, Miguel Orellana, decided they'd like to run a hotel. "The idea just came to us," she told me. "We decided to do something completely different."

The main building contains the reception area, the bar and restaurant, a sitting room for visitors with a computer for those who can't bear to be cut off from the rest of the world, and some of the bedrooms. There are pots of flowers everywhere, and benches dotted around where people can sit and relax in the shade. The house is surrounded by grounds were visitors can stroll, and there is a large swimming pool. Down a gentle slope are the stables - Maria Luisa keeps three horses - and the hen houses, which contain the noisy cockerel as well as chickens, geese and turkeys.

The cortijo is in the countryside a couple of miles outside Arcos de la Frontera, where there is no shortage of hotel accommodation. I asked Anna, who was staffing reception, why people would choose to stay here rather than up in the village, with its restaurants and tourist attractions.

"We find that people now are looking for something different from a normal hotel," she replied. "Some people are put off because we are 50 minutes from the beach, but others love it here. It's handy for sightseeing, and then they can come back and enjoy the pool and the space we have here."

Some people turn up by chance, she told me, their attention caught by the signpost on the main road. "And they often like it so much that they stay longer than they intended to," she added.

Anna mentioned that there was another cortijo a couple of kilometres away. While the Mesa de la Plata is a convincing imitation, the Cortijo Barranco is the real thing. Built in 1754, it is set in 450 hectares of land, an area so large that the drive from the main entrance gate to the front door is some 3km long. The cortijo functioned as an olive mill until 10 years ago, at which point it became more economical to harvest the olives and send them to a co-operative in Seville for processing. It has been occupied by the same family for more than 100 years. The present owner, Consuelo Amian, decided to convert it into a hotel as a way of being able to keep the building in the family at the same time as earning some money. Consuelo's daughter, Maria Jose, admitted to me that life is becoming increasingly difficult for everyone in the Spanish countryside these days, and that more and more cortijo owners are providing accommodation as a means of making a living.

Consuelo has built up her business gradually, and in the 10 years since she began welcoming visitors she has seen an increase in the popularity of accommodation like hers. The house is gorgeous, and has been carefully restored, so it is not surprising that she has many repeat visitors. Some first heard of the place through word of mouth but, increasingly, the cortijo is becoming known through guidebooks, the internet, and a number of associations that have been set up to foster the growing rural accommodation movement.

Consuelo Amian believes that she is offering an experience that is more natural, and certainly more personal, than anything that would be available in a conventional hotel. The rooms are simple - monastic might be a better description, although they are spotlessly clean and have everything that anyone might need for a comfortable stay, including full ensuite facilities. Outside their own room, the guests have space - extensive grounds, a lovely swimming pool with views across the sierra, a shady courtyard covered with vines. Meals are served in what was once the old mill; the original grinding stone has been incorporated into the fireplace. Breakfast features rosemary honey from the estate's hives, and preserves made from home-grown fruit. Dinner is also available on request to anyone staying at the cortijo.

In former times horses would have been kept on many estates, and many cortijos continue the tradition. There is an extensive stable block, the Hipica El Granero, in the grounds of the Cortijo Barranco, and although it is run separately from the hotel itself, it is a major attraction for many guests. It has 15 horses, and they can be taken out for short treks or all-day rides across the miles of tracks nearby; you can also arrange lessons.

Back in my more modern cortijo, I relaxed beside the pool, sipping a beer and chatting to other guests. We had lovely views of Arcos, perched on its hilltop a few kilometres to the west. But with open countryside all around us, and only the gentle noise of the resident birds and animals to break the peace and quiet, it was easy to see why more and more people have been abandoning urban hotels in favour of a night or two in more rural surroundings.

British Airways, operated by GB Airways, flies to Gibraltar from London Gatwick and Heathrow and to Seville from London Gatwick. For more details visit



"If you can't stand the heat..." may be an old saying, but it could have been written as an advertising slogan for anyone trying to promote the benefits of cave-dwelling. In terms of accommodation, caves are cool.

Protected from the intense summer heat, but insulated in winter, caves have been popular places to live in parts of Andalucia for years. In Almeria there are a number of troglodyte communities - as cave-dwellers are known - the largest of which is in Guadix. At first sight, it is a typical Moorish town, with an ancient fortress and cathedral dominating the horizon, but continue up the hill past the church and the town suddenly disappears into the rocks. Nothing is visible except the small chimneys that provide ventilation for a succession of underground homes, housing around 12,000 people.

Caves are fast becoming popular with visitors attracted by a novel form of lodgings. But although you will be sleeping below ground level, don't expect your night underground to be lacking in creature comforts: caves are fitted with electricity and running water.

Some have been turned into hotels, like the Cuevas Pedro Antonio de Alarcon, a complex of 23 caves on the outskirts of Guadix. Each room has a bedroom, bathroom, sitting area and kitchen, although the complex does have a restaurant. More authentic is to rent a self-catering cave, like the three owned by the Cuevas de Maria in Guadix itself.

Natural rock walls divide up the space, and the rooms are separated from each other with curtains. The kitchen, located nearest to the front door, has every modern convenience, and each cave will sleep six people.

Hotel Cuevas Pedro Antonio de Alarcon: Barriada de San Torcuato (00 34 958 664 986; Caves that will accommodate two people are available from €59 (£42), with breakfast from €5.50 (£4).

Cuevas de Maria: Calle Ermita Nueva 52 (00 34 958 660 716; Six people will pay €100 (£71) per night, although the caves are available for couples for €45 (£32).


Rural accommodation - anything from bed and breakfast in a private home to a stay on a farm - is an increasingly popular way of spending a holiday in Spain.

Todo Turismo Rural is a nationwide organisation offering a variety of accommodation; in Andalucia it ranges from a small house for two people in the village of Montejaque near Ronda to a villa that sleeps 10 between Cordoba and Malaga.

Each property has to be inspected, first by the local administration and then by the tourist authorities. There are different categories, according to whether what is on offer is a room in someone's house or a whole property.

The RAAR - the Andalucian Network of Rural Accommodation - represents the owners of farms, country homes and even camping facilities in the region. All are classified according to what is on offer. Rates for the properties vary, but bed and breakfast, in a room with shared facilities, could cost €15 (£11), while a modest house with several bedrooms is likely to be €300 (£210) for a week.

Todo Turismo Rural: 00 34 914 659 567;

RAAR: 00 34 902 442 233


Cortijo Mesa de la Plata (00 34 956 704 774; is on the Arcos-El Bosque road at km 4.5. Double rooms cost €77 (£55), singles €64 (£46), including breakfast. Apartments that sleep two people cost €96 (£69).

Cortijo Barranco is on the Arcos-El Bosque road at km 5.7 (00 34 956 231 402; Double rooms start at €72 (£51), singles at €53.50 (£38).

Hipica El Granero: 00 34 607 374 160;


If you want a Spanish holiday that doesn't do much harm to the physical or social environment, you could try Benamonarda ( This is an Andalucian co-operative in Jubrique, a village of 950 people in the Serrania de Ronda (not to be confused with the similarly named leather-working town further north). Visitors carry small gifts for their host families. Evening meals are alongside the relatives of the village publican.

Benamonarda specialises in walking and cultural holidays. Other activities are available, such as mountain biking, mule treks, learning local crafts and nature rambles, making the holidays suitable for couples or families with diverse interests. Few people speak English so it's ideal for language work.

Breakfasts are certainly hearty - local bread and cheese, and salami, home-made from the small black pigs which roam freely in the cork oak forests.

Cars have to park outside the village and mules carry loads to the upper lanes. Children can play safely in the squares. Water is kept in tanks under the courtyards of the older houses.

Life and Style
Fans line up at the AVNs, straining to capture a photo of their favourite star
life Tim Walker asks how much longer it can flesh out an existence
Life and Style
Every minute of every day, Twitter is awash with anger as we seek to let these organisations know precisely what we think of them
techWhen it comes to vitriol, no one on attracts our ire more than big businesses offering bad service
Professor David Nutt wants to change the way gravely ill patients are treated in Britain
people Why does a former Government tsar believe that mind-altering drugs have a place on prescription?
Norway’s ‘The Nordland Line – Minute by Minute, Season by Season’ continues the trend of slow TV
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Arts and Entertainment
Jonny Evans has pleaded not guilty to an FA charge for spitting at Papiss Cisse
Life and Style
Kate Moss will make a cameo appearance in David Walliams' The Boy in the Dress
The image released by the Salvation Army, using 'The Dress'
Liverpool defender Kolo Toure
football Defender could make history in the FA Cup, but African Cup of Nations win means he's already content
ebookHow to enjoy the perfect short break in 20 great cities
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Recruitment Genius: Automotive Service Advisor - Franchised Main Dealer

    £18000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This successful, family owned m...

    Recruitment Genius: Product Advisor - Automotive

    £17000 - £23000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: Due to the consistent growth of...

    Recruitment Genius: Sales Administrator - Automotive

    £18000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: An opportunity exists for an ex...

    Recruitment Genius: Renewals Sales Executive - Automotive

    £20000 - £30000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: An opportunity exists for an ou...

    Day In a Page

    Homeless Veterans campaign: Donations hit record-breaking £1m target after £300,000 gift from Lloyds Bank

    Homeless Veterans campaign

    Donations hit record-breaking £1m target after huge gift from Lloyds Bank
    Flight MH370 a year on: Lost without a trace – but the search goes on

    Lost without a trace

    But, a year on, the search continues for Flight MH370
    Germany's spymasters left red-faced after thieves break into brand new secret service HQ and steal taps

    Germany's spy HQ springs a leak

    Thieves break into new €1.5bn complex... to steal taps
    International Women's Day 2015: Celebrating the whirlwind wit of Simone de Beauvoir

    Whirlwind wit of Simone de Beauvoir

    Simone de Beauvoir's seminal feminist polemic, 'The Second Sex', has been published in short-form for International Women's Day
    Mark Zuckerberg’s hiring policy might suit him – but it wouldn’t work for me

    Mark Zuckerberg’s hiring policy might suit him – but it wouldn’t work for me

    Why would I want to employ someone I’d be happy to have as my boss, asks Simon Kelner
    Confessions of a planespotter: With three Britons under arrest in the UAE, the perils have never been more apparent

    Confessions of a planespotter

    With three Britons under arrest in the UAE, the perils have never been more apparent. Sam Masters explains the appeal
    Russia's gulag museum 'makes no mention' of Stalin's atrocities

    Russia's gulag museum

    Ministry of Culture-run site 'makes no mention' of Stalin's atrocities
    The big fresh food con: Alarming truth behind the chocolate muffin that won't decay

    The big fresh food con

    Joanna Blythman reveals the alarming truth behind the chocolate muffin that won't decay
    Virginia Ironside was my landlady: What is it like to live with an agony aunt on call 24/7?

    Virginia Ironside was my landlady

    Tim Willis reveals what it's like to live with an agony aunt on call 24/7
    Paris Fashion Week 2015: The wit and wisdom of Manish Arora's exercise in high camp

    Paris Fashion Week 2015

    The wit and wisdom of Manish Arora's exercise in high camp
    8 best workout DVDs

    8 best workout DVDs

    If your 'New Year new you' regime hasn’t lasted beyond February, why not try working out from home?
    Paul Scholes column: I don't believe Jonny Evans was spitting at Papiss Cissé. It was a reflex. But what the Newcastle striker did next was horrible

    Paul Scholes column

    I don't believe Evans was spitting at Cissé. It was a reflex. But what the Newcastle striker did next was horrible
    Miguel Layun interview: From the Azteca to Vicarage Road with a million followers

    From the Azteca to Vicarage Road with a million followers

    Miguel Layun is a star in Mexico where he was criticised for leaving to join Watford. But he says he sees the bigger picture
    Frank Warren column: Amir Khan ready to meet winner of Floyd Mayweather v Manny Pacquiao

    Khan ready to meet winner of Mayweather v Pacquiao

    The Bolton fighter is unlikely to take on Kell Brook with two superstar opponents on the horizon, says Frank Warren
    War with Isis: Iraq's government fights to win back Tikrit from militants - but then what?

    Baghdad fights to win back Tikrit from Isis – but then what?

    Patrick Cockburn reports from Kirkuk on a conflict which sectarianism has made intractable