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Five Best: Portugeuse retreats

Escape the tourist crowds and find another side of Portugal in a chic and stylish hideaway.

By Danielle Demetriou
Saturday, 5 May 2007

Vilacampina Algarve

Far from the tourist crowds of the Algarve is a sleek oasis in an orange grove. Vilacampina is a boutique guesthouse, more Greek than Portuguese in style. Decked terraces, neat green lawns and splashes of red create a cool minimalist ambience. Glass walls, stone floors and modern art set the tone in the nine bedrooms. Laze around the elegant pool or venture further afield: national park beaches are under two miles away.

Vilacampina, Sitio da Campina, Luz de Tavira, Algarve (00 351 281 961 242; www.vilacampina.pt). Doubles start at €90 (£64), including breakfast.

Ha Mar Ao Luar Estremadura

High in the Arrabida Hills above Setubal Bay sits Ha Mar Ao Luar: "Moonlight on Sea". The setting is as romantic as its name, its hilltop location providing sweeping views of the Atlantic. Although this retreat is only 30 miles from Lisbon, you will feel a million miles from the capital. Of the five rooms dotted throughout the grounds and in the main house, one in particular stands out: a 19th-century whitewashed converted mill with a stone, spiral staircase and curved walls. Most rooms have private entrances, terraces and self-catering facilities - making this an ideal weekend retreat.

Ha Mar Ao Luar, Alto de S Felipe, Setubal, Estremadura (00 351 265 220 901; www.hamaraoluar.com). Doubles start at €55 (£39), including breakfast.

Casa Dos Assentos Minho

For rural seclusion head to Casa Dos Assentos. Orange and lemon trees dot the quiet grounds of the 17th-century manor house in the unspoilt green landscape of Minho. The ivy-clad house has four guest rooms in the main building, and two traditional cottages with stone walls, wooden floors, high ceilings, traditional antique furnishings - and, in one case, a romantic balcony fit for Romeo and Juliet. The flower-filled landscaped gardens have two swimming pools and a tennis court.

Casa Dos Assentos, Quintiaes, Barcelos, Minho (00 351 253 881 160; www.casadosassentos.com). Doubles start at €80 (£57), including breakfast.

Monte da Fornalha Alentejo

Ancient oaks, tumbling wisteria and gnarled olive trees surround the whitewashed walls of Monte da Fornalha. The owner has created a chic hideaway from the modern world in the heart of the unspoilt Alentejo region. The 200-year-old farmhouse has six spacious, cool and elegant bedrooms, with colour-washed walls and shuttered windows. Paths overgrown with sweet-scented flowers and plants lead to a stylish swimming pool. Work off hearty rustic breakfasts by exploring the nearby town of Borba and the surrounding countryside on bicycles.

Monte da Fornalha, near Borba, Estremoz, Alentejo (00 351 268 840 314; www.montedafornalha.com). Doubles start at €90 (£64), including breakfast.

Quinta do Barranco da Estrada Alentejo

Set beside a still, blue lake, the quinta blends into a wooded hillside. Its nine rooms are simple but pretty, each with a veranda over the water. The heart of the establishment is a vine-covered terrace where organic garden produce is served. Be prepared for Frank McClintock, the British owner, to leap up from the table with a pair of binoculars in order to point out a rare bird or lounging lizard.

Quinta do Barranco da Estrada, Santa Clara a Velha, Alentejo (00 351 283 933 065; www.paradise-in-portugal.com). Doubles start at €90 (£64), with breakfast.

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