In search of... A night at the Paris Opera

Unless you've been asleep for the past month, you will know by now that the new Channel Tunnel rail link through Kent has cut 20 minutes off Eurostar's journey time from London to Paris, reducing the trip to just two hours and 35 minutes. Why, it takes longer than that to get to many parts of the UK by train, I hear you cry. Hardly a fair comparison, even considering the pathetic state of the British railway system, but the point is not lost on weekenders, for you can make a quick hop to Paris without even needing to use up precious holiday entitlement. Jump on Eurostar early on Saturday for a day and a night's play in the French capital before returning home late on Sunday in time to iron a shirt for work on Monday morning.

Unless you've been asleep for the past month, you will know by now that the new Channel Tunnel rail link through Kent has cut 20 minutes off Eurostar's journey time from London to Paris, reducing the trip to just two hours and 35 minutes. Why, it takes longer than that to get to many parts of the UK by train, I hear you cry. Hardly a fair comparison, even considering the pathetic state of the British railway system, but the point is not lost on weekenders, for you can make a quick hop to Paris without even needing to use up precious holiday entitlement. Jump on Eurostar early on Saturday for a day and a night's play in the French capital before returning home late on Sunday in time to iron a shirt for work on Monday morning.

I won't get much out of such a short trip, will I?

Oh yes you will - if you go with a purpose. How about a night at the opera?

But I don't know anything about opera?

Neither do I, but that doesn't mean you can't enjoy the spectacle. Plus it's your cue to have a grand time. (I'm talking grand as in grandeur, not as in George Formby's verdict on a day out in a charabanc.) You see, the Palais Garnier, Paris's most famous opera house, is in the heart of the Grands Boulevards, the city's swankiest quarter, the perfect area to base yourself in if you want to do Paris in style.

Why do I get the feeling this is going to hit me in the pocket?

Stop grumbling. You're only here for a day, after all. First, check into the InterContinental Le Grand Hotel Paris. Opened by Empress Eugénie in the 1860s, it has been the stopover of choice for visiting kings, queens, maharajahs and tsars over the centuries. Victor Hugo threw a banquet here and Emile Zola set the death of his tragic heroine, Nana, in one of its suites. And, of course, it rather conveniently overlooks the Opéra Garnier.

But there's another reason for staying at the Grand. Time is of the essence and you'll want to immerse yourself quickly in the atmosphere of the city, which is right on the hotel's doorstep.

OK, I've unpacked and I'm ready to go.

Right. Head south-east down the Avenue de l'Opéra and across the Rue de Rivoli to the Louvre. You don't have to go inside (as I said, time is limited) but you can enjoy the glorious juxtaposition of this vast museum's baroque architecture and I M Pei's futuristic glass pyramid that serves as its entrance. Turn around and the Jardins des Tuileries lie before you. Walk over to the entrance arch and you'll see that it perfectly frames the Arc de Triomphe, dead ahead.

Ah, now I'm beginning to really feel like I'm in Paris.

Good. You've a few hours to kill, so make the most of them. You could take a walk through the Jardins des Tuileries to the Jeu de Paume, home to a permanent exhibition of work by the Impressionists. Or you could head east, over the river Seine, to St Germain des Prés (catching a glimpse of the Eiffel Tower, to the west, en route) and lose yourself in its quaint winding streets before taking afternoon tea in the genteel setting of Ladurée at 21 rue Bonaparte. Alternatively, retrace your steps north and spend the rest of the afternoon indulging in some retail therapy in such grand institutions as the Galeries Lafayette, at 40 Boulevard Haussmann, and Printemps, just along the road at number 64. Oh, and don't forget to sit at a pavement café at some point - it's got to be done.

I think it must be time to get ready for the opera.

Indeed it is. The curtain rises at 7.30pm. Make sure you give yourself time to have a good look at the opera house itself, both outside and in.

A veritable wedding cake of a building, it has recently been restored to its gilt-edged glory. Topped by golden winged statues, clad with marble and mosaic, and crowned with a dome, it was the inspiration of an unknown architect called Charles Garnier who was commissioned by Napoleon III to create a new home for the Paris opera in the late 19th century.

Inside, it is no less opulent. A double marble staircase leads to the different levels of the auditorium, itself designed as a stage for the high-society opera-goers of its day. The foyers where the audiences gather during the intervals are decorated with sparkling mosaics, elaborate ceiling paintings depicting musical themes, and busts of great composers and musicians. Inside the horseshoe-shaped auditorium, plush red velvet seats and abundant gilding shimmer under the sparkling light of the chandelier which hangs from the central dome. And on the dome is the controversial painting by Marc Chagall, commissioned in the 1960s and still unpopular today with some traditionalists, which picks out scenes from all the major ballets and operas, from Giselle (which premiered here) to Don Giovanni. Don't look now, but the opera house was the home of the Phantom of the Opera.

What are we going to see?

Well, I saw an 18th-century opera-ballet called Les Indes Galantes by Jean-Philippe Rameau. Feel-good entertainment of its day, it explored the theme of love in the exotic settings of Turkey, Peru, Persia and the Americas. Eighteenth-century critics deemed the opera-ballet a flop, but I thoroughly enjoyed it, even though it was a bum-numbing three hours and 40 minutes long. I shan't attempt to ape the reviewer's art, except to tell you that it was essentially a song and dance show, with a strong sense of comedy, picked out in the choreography and modern sets. It also had a devilishly catchy tune titled "Les Sauvages", which was a hit in its day, salvaging the work from complete obscurity. Ariadne auf Naxos by Strauss is currently in performance and other highlights of the season include Handel's Alcina and a double bill of Ravel's L'Heure espagnol and Puccini's Gianni Schicchi. Take your pick.

Any chance of a post-theatre supper?

Of course. Head back to the hotel restaurant, the Café de la Paix. One of city's top brasseries, also built by the architect of the Palais Garnier, it's a Paris institution. There's an extensive menu on offer, but the seafood platters are to die for: mountains of ice crammed with oysters, crabs, prawns, shrimps, snails, winkles, whelks, clams and mussels.

What a night! And I've still got a few hours to kill before the train home.

Leave your bag with the concierge and take a walk to Legrand Filles et Fils at 1 rue de la Banque. While most of Paris's shops are closed on Sundays, this delightful old-fashioned store does a roaring trade selling fine wines and spirits alongside bonbons and chocolates. At the back is a modern bar, a tasting room where you can sample the shop's formidable selection of wines. Stop for lunch and test out one of their dégustation menus. It's a great way to grab a bite to eat and do a bit of last-minute shopping for gifts.

OK, I'm sold. How do I get there?

I travelled to Paris on Eurostar (0870 160 6600; www.eurostar.com), which offers return fares from £109, departing Saturday, returning Sunday. The InterContinental Le Grand Hotel Paris (00 800 1800 1800; www.paris.intercontinental.com) is offering two special packages until December. The "Shopping" package includes one night's b&b accommodation, gifts, 10 per cent discount on goods at the nearby Galeries Lafayette, the services of a multilingual hostess at the store, VIP lounge, free alteration service and free delivery of your shopping to the hotel. The deal starts at €385 (£273) per room per night, including taxes and service charges. Alternatively, the "Romance" package includes one night's accommodation in a room with a view of the Opéra Garnier, VIP welcome with chocolates and flowers, breakfast in bed or in the Café de la Paix, a gourmet three-course dinner with a bottle of champagne served in your suite and a gift. The deal starts at €860 (£610) per room per night. Tickets for opera and ballet performances at the Opéra Garnier (00 33 8 92 89 90 90; www.opera-de-paris.fr) cost from €7-€114 (£5-£81) and can be booked by phone, online or, between 11am and 6.30pm, from the box office at the Place de l'Opéra.

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