...is new. So are the chef and the décor. The former Wiinblad restaurant has been stripped away, and the eponymous artist's blue-and-white tiles with fairy-tale characters auctioned off. The Italian-designed restaurant aglow with golden tones now takes its name after its five-star hotel host.
Its award-winning chef Rasmus Kofoed made his mark at Copenhagen's best fish restaurant, Krogs, so you'd be foolish not to go for a marine-based meal. His signature starter, giant crab with avocado and mint oil, is worthy of his seal and sets the tone for fresh, clean fare. For more traditional Danish delights, try the shank of baby pork dressed up in foie gras and drizzled in apple juice sauce. The desserts pay homage to the Danes' sweet-tooth, but are mostly shot through with a complementary fruit for a tart counterbalance. The cheese cart boasts a superb organic Danish blue.
Choose one of the many window seats for the best views of Kongens Nytorv square, with its neighbouring elegant edifices such as the Renaissance-style Royal Theatre and the Dutch baroque Charlottenborg Palace, home to the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. At the heart of the square is a statue of King Christian V, but it's his subjects' descendants who make most interesting viewing - whether cycling or walking past. Many of these Copenhageners are heading to neck beers in the Nyhavn Canal, the start of which can be glimpsed in one corner of the square. Follow them later.
Denmark hasn't succumbed to the euro, and you won't get much change out of 2000 Danish kroner (£183) for a three-course meal for two, including wine.
Restaurant D'Angleterre, Kongens Nytorv 34, Copenhagen, Denmark (00 45 3337 0645; www.remmen.dk/dangleterre)Reuse content