Plate With A View: Tuti Restaurant Bodrum, Turkey


THE PLATE

High above the ancient city of Halikarnassos (now known as Bodrum) the Marmara Hotel perches upon a what is virtually a cliff face since a bypass for the city was cut into the hillside below. Its restaurant, Tuti, sits on a terrace that overlooks the hotel pool and the city itself, with a view that stretches out across the Aegean.

Self-consciously an art hotel, the Marmara is full of curious quirks. One wall is lined with miniature bronzes of Bacon's screaming pope; a portrait of Elizabeth I has eyes made of amber beads – and there is a room where guests are encouraged to graffiti the walls.

The alfresco restaurant extends out over the pool level on wooden decking. White chairs are grouped round small square tables decorated in geometric Turkish tiles. The young staff are in Navy whites topped off with black bow ties. They look as if they have just come off a shift on one of the more splendid yachts down below. The menu makes much of local fish – gorgeously fresh calamari salad, fried jumbo shrimps stuffed with ginger, meaty grouper grilled to perfection. It also offers stylishly presented Turkish dishes – a European take on the traditional mixed meze and iskander kebabs presented with a flourish. Hotel specials include an aromatic Marmara beefsteak and Bodrum-style skimmed-milk cheese salad (feta to you and me). The wines are both Turkish and international, with the kavaklideres from Ankara being particularly good value. Kavak reds are made from the near extinct kalecik karasi grape and have grace notes of fruit, vanilla and cocoa. Of the whites, Villa Doluca is a great favourite, dry with an exciting apple zestiness.

THE VIEW

While the food is good, what brings people up here from the city below is the stunning view of Bodrum, day or night but especially as the sun sets. South-west from the restaurant, spotlights play on the ancient castle of St Peter while beyond it lies the Aegean Sea and the Greek island of Kos.

Immediately below, Bodrum's main street, Cevat Sakir Cadessi, runs all the way down to the harbour and the castle built by the Knights of St John in the 15th century. The street is named after Cevat Sakir Kabaagaçli, the poet who wrote under the pseudonym "The Fisherman of Halikarnassos". Cevat Sakir was exiled to Bodrum in 1927. His lyrical work made the city famous in Turkish literary circles and formed the basis of Bodrum's rise as a tourist centre.

To the right of this thoroughfare you can just make out the foundations of one of the seven wonders of the ancient world, the mausoleum built for King Mausolus in 355BC. And beyond it, facing due west, the Myndos Gate, through which Alexander the Great's army burst in 334BC when he captured the city. But it is the calm waters of Bodrum bay and the sun dipping below the distant peaks of Kos that takes your breath away.

THE BILL

Expect to pay 70 new Turkish lira/YTL (£27) per person for three courses. Add at least £10 for wine.

The Marmara Bodrum, Yokusbasi Malallesi Suluhasan Caddesi Park 199, Bodrum, Turkey (00 90 252 313 81 30; www.themarmarahotels.com). Open daily from 7pm till 11pm

The Independent travel offers: Discover a world of inspiring destinations

News
peopleHowards' Way actress, and former mistress of Jeffrey Archer, was 60
Sport
Romelu Lukaku puts pen to paper
sport
News
Robyn Lawley
people
Arts and Entertainment
Unhappy days: Resistance spy turned Nobel prize winner Samuel Beckett
books
PROMOTED VIDEO
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
News
people
Life and Style
Troy Baker and Ashley Johnson voice the show’s heroes
gamingOnce stilted and melodramatic, Hollywood is giving acting in video games a makeover
News
i100
Life and Style
Phones will be able to monitor your health, from blood pressure to heart rate, and even book a doctor’s appointment for you
techCould our smartphones soon be diagnosing diseases via Health Kit and Google Fit?
News
people
Extras
indybest
Travel
Ryan taming: the Celtic Tiger carrier has been trying to improve its image
travelRyanair has turned on the 'charm offensive' but can we learn to love the cut-price carrier again?
Travel
ebookHow to enjoy the perfect short break in 20 great cities
Sport
Usain Bolt confirms he will run in both the heats and the finals of the men's relay at the Commonwealth Games
commonwealth games
Life and Style
Slim pickings: Spanx premium denim collection
fashionBillionaire founder of Spanx launches range of jeans that offers 'thigh-trimming construction'
News
Sabina Altynbekova has said she wants to be famous for playing volleyball, not her looks
people
News
i100
Life and Style
tech'World's first man-made leaves' could use photosynthesis to help astronauts breathe
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
Independent
Travel Shop
the manor
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on city breaks Find out more
santorini
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on chic beach resorts Find out more
sardina foodie
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on country retreats Find out more
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Sales and Office Administrator – Sports Media

    £23,000: Sauce Recruitment: A global leader in sports and entertainment is now...

    C++ Software Engineer - Hounslow, West London - C++ - to £60K +

    £40000 - £60000 per annum + Pension, Healthcare : Deerfoot IT Resources Limite...

    VB.NET and C# developer (VB.NET,C#,ASP.NET)

    £30000 - £45000 per annum + Bonus+Benefits+Package: Harrington Starr: VB.NET a...

    Visitor Experience volunteer

    Unpaid voluntary role: Old Royal Naval College: To assist the Visitor Experien...

    Day In a Page

    Save the tiger: The day America’s love of backyard tigers led to a horrific bloodbath

    The day America’s love of backyard tigers led to a horrific bloodbath

    With only six per cent of the US population of these amazing big cats held in zoos, the Zanesville incident in 2011 was inevitable
    Samuel Beckett's biographer reveals secrets of the writer's time as a French Resistance spy

    How Samuel Beckett became a French Resistance spy

    As this year's Samuel Beckett festival opens in Enniskillen, James Knowlson, recalls how the Irish writer risked his life for liberty and narrowly escaped capture by the Gestapo
    We will remember them: relatives still honour those who fought in the Great War

    We will remember them

    Relatives still honour those who fought in the Great War
    Star Wars Episode VII is being shot on film - and now Kodak is launching a last-ditch bid to keep celluloid alive

    Kodak's last-ditch bid to keep celluloid alive

    Director J J Abrams and a few digital refuseniks shoot movies on film. Simon Usborne wonders what the fuss is about
    Once stilted and melodramatic, Hollywood is giving acting in video games a makeover

    Acting in video games gets a makeover

    David Crookes meets two of the genre's most popular voices
    Could our smartphones soon be diagnosing diseases via Health Kit and Google Fit?

    Could smartphones soon be diagnosing diseases?

    Health Kit and Google Fit have been described as "the beginning of a health revolution"
    Ryanair has turned on the 'charm offensive' but can we learn to love the cut-price carrier again?

    Can we learn to love Ryanair again?

    Four recent travellers give their verdicts on the carrier's improved customer service
    Billionaire founder of Spanx launches range of jeans that offers

    Spanx launches range of jeans

    The jeans come in two styles, multiple cuts and three washes and will go on sale in the UK in October
    10 best over-ear headphones

    Aural pleasure: 10 best over-ear headphones

    Listen to your favourite tracks with this selection, offering everything from lambskin earmuffs to stainless steel
    Commonwealth Games 2014: David Millar ready to serve up gold for his beloved Scotland in the end

    Commonwealth Games

    David Millar ready to serve up gold for his beloved Scotland in the end
    UCI Mountain Bike World Cup 2014: Downhill all the way to the top for the Atherton siblings

    UCI Mountain Bike World Cup

    Downhill all the way to the top for the Atherton siblings
    Save the tiger: The animals bred for bones on China’s tiger farms

    The animals bred for bones on China’s tiger farms

    The big cats kept in captivity to perform for paying audiences and then, when dead, their bodies used to fortify wine
    A former custard factory, a Midlands bog and a Leeds cemetery all included in top 50 hidden spots in the UK

    A former custard factory, a Midlands bog and a Leeds cemetery

    Introducing the top 50 hidden spots in Britain
    Ebola epidemic: Plagued by fear

    Ebola epidemic: Plagued by fear

    How a disease that has claimed fewer than 2,000 victims in its history has earned a place in the darkest corner of the public's imagination
    Chris Pratt: From 'Parks and Recreation' to 'Guardians of the Galaxy'

    From 'Parks and Recreation' to 'Guardians of the Galaxy'

    He was homeless in Hawaii when he got his big break. Now the comic actor Chris Pratt is Hollywood's new favourite action star