Somewhere for the weekend... Lille

WHY GO NOW?

WHY GO NOW?

Since the first Eurostar services served Lille in 1994, leisure visitors have discovered that this northern French city is a fascinating destination; this coming year will be extra-special. Lille has just taken over from Graz in Austria as the European Capital of Culture (sharing the honour with Genoa in Italy).

Lille's plentiful permanent attractions will be supplemented by a multitude of art projects, cultural performances and exhibitions both indoors and out. Some streets will play host to sci-fi light gantries, flower sculpture displays or suspended upside-down forests. The beautiful old Lille-Flandres station will be tinged pink. And, after dark, buildings both old and new will be spectacularly lit.

As the year gets under way, an impressive programme of events will unfold. For full details of what's happeningn, call 00 33 3 28 52 20 04 or see www.lille2004.com.

DOWN PAYMENT

From south-east England at least, Lille is now the quickest Continental city to reach. Trains run through the Channel Tunnel by Eurostar (08705 186 186; www.eurostar.com) and take 100 minutes from London Waterloo, and just an hour from Ashford in Kent. The lowest fare from either city is £55, so long as you stay away for a Saturday night or two other nights - or take a day trip. Fares from other UK cities include £59 from Birmingham and £69 from Manchester (through Virgin Trains, 08457 222 333; www.virgin-trains.co.uk) and £86 from Edinburgh and £76 from Leeds (GNER, 08457 225 225; www.gner.co.uk).

By air, Paris Charles de Gaulle airport is the obvious gateway because the airport's own station is less than an hour by TGV from Lille. Either way, you arrive at the modern steel and glass Lille-Europe station, a brisk 15-minute walk or short taxi or metro ride from the place du General de Gaulle, more commonly known as the Grand' Place.

INSTANT BRIEFING

First mentioned in an 11th-century charter, Lille is by far the largest city in the north of France. But it was part of Flanders until 1667, and is close enough to Belgium for its architecture, culture and cuisine to have strong Flemish influences.

The focal point of the city is the aforementioned Grand' Place, which marks the southern boundary of the lovely predominantly 17th-century quarter known as Vieux Lille. Close to the Grand' Place you'll find Lille's tourist office in the Palais Rihour on place Rihour, (00 33 3 20 21 94 21; www.lilletourism.com ); it opens Monday-Saturday 9.30am-6.30pm, Sunday 10am-noon and 2-5pm: in the UK contact the French Tourist Office on 09068 244123 (calls charged at 60p per minute).

Watch your step as you walk the city's pavements and cobbled lanes; few of Lille's canine population are street-trained. Though most major sites are easily accessible on foot, don't miss a ride on Lille's futuristic driverless metro, the VAL. There are two metro lines with a single journey costing €1.15 (£0.80) and a day ticket €3.35 (£2.40). The metro runs from 5.30am (6.30 on Sunday) until 12.30am. Metro tickets are also valid on trams and buses: see www.transpole.fr for details. Various special day and multi-day passes have been introduced giving entry to Lille 2004 events: some include free use of city transport.

REST ASSURED

Lille's poshest hotel is probably the centrally located Carlton at 3 rue de Paris (00 33 3 20 13 33 13; www.carlton.fr), where a double room costs €160 (£115) per night, with breakfast costing an additional €16 (£11.50) per person. I prefer the less ostentatious but comfortable and atmospheric Golden Tulip Alliance, a former 17th-century convent a 10-minute walk from the Grand Place at 17 quai du Wault (00 33 3 20 30 62 62; www.goldentulip.com). You may be able to get its special rate of €115 (£82), room only. The 64-room Hotel des Tours at 27 rue des Tours (00 33 3 59 57 47 00; www.hotel-des-tours.com) is well positioned for Vieux Lille and especially the restaurant-packed rue de Gand. Rooms from €99 (£71) without breakfast - though check for regular promotions. Closer to the centre is the Hotel Brueghel at 3-5 parvis St-Maurice (00 33 3 20 06 06 69; www.hotel-brueghel.com) with 66 antique-furnished individually decorated rooms. From €69 (£49) including breakfast.

MUST SEE

Of the permanent attractions in Lille, top of the list has to be the Palais des Beaux Arts at place de la République (00 33 3 20 06 78 00; www.lille.cci.fr/tourisme). It houses European fine art from the 15th to the 20th century, and among French museums is ranked second only to the Louvre in Paris. It opens 2-6pm on Mondays, 10am-6pm from Wednesday to Sunday (until 7pm on Fridays), admission €4.60 (£3.30); it is free on the first Sunday of each month.

For more up-to-date stuff take the metro to Pont-de-Bois, then bus 41 to the Musée d'Art Moderne (00 33 3 20 19 68 68; www.nordnet.fr/mam). Exhibits include works by Picasso, Modigliani and Miro. It opens 10am-6pm daily except Tuesday; admission €6.60 (£4.65).

After taking in all the lovely architecture around the central squares, set off along the cobbled lanes of Vieux Lille to the cathedral. The jury is still out on the exterior of Notre-Dame de la Treille (00 33 3 20 31 59 12). Though building began in 1854 in neo-Gothic style, the new facade was finished only just in time for the millennium celebrations in December 1999. It focuses on an unusual translucent marble front supported by steel wires. The interior is atmospheric with magnificent stained glass.

MUST EAT

Local specialities blend Flemish and French cuisine. If you avoid the obvious tourist traps it's hard to make a bad choice of restaurant but be prepared for cigarette smoke from neighbouring tables to mingle with cooking smells from the kitchens. For a cheap, tasty and filling lunch on the go grab a filled baguette (and perhaps a delicious pastry) at one of the ubiquitous, inviting patisseries. Winter means hot chestnuts are on sale in the Grand' Place.

Reservations are essential at weekends, especially at the Michelin-starred seafood restaurant A l'Huitrière which is to be found at 3 rue des Chats Bossus (00 33 3 20 55 43 41; www.huitriere.fr); the restaurant's formal dining room is reached through an ornate fishmongers.

Of the many dining possibilities on rue de Gand, I liked the two-story l'Authentique at number 51 (00 33 3 20 31 00 57; closed Sunday and Monday). Main courses are around €12.50 (£9), or you can go for the three-course menu at €15 (£11). The set lunch menu is the same price at La Petite Cour, 17 rue du Curé St Etienne (00 33 3 20 51 52 81, www.lapetitecour.com; closed Sunday and Monday), which is housed in a 17th-century building; but you pay twice or three times that for sophisticated French and Flemish dishes in the evenings. Thin savoury or sweet pancakes are good at Crêperie Beaurepaire, 1 rue Saint-Etienne (00 33 3 20 54 60 54).

MUST BUY

The huge, modern Euralille complex is home to an equally enormous shopping centre; being five minutes' walk from the Lille-Europe station its giant Carrefour supermarket is a popular stop for shoppers on their way to the train. For some retail character, though, visit the cobbled lanes of Vieux Lille: try rue de la Monnaie, and place aux Oignons around the back of the cathedral. On one side of the Grand' Place, the cloisters of the Vieille Bourse house flower stalls and a second-hand book market: directly across the square, Le Furet du Nord claims to be one of the world's biggest bookstores. If you like your cheese pungent pop your nose into Philippe Olivier, 3 rue du Curé St Etienne and be sure to check out the decor around the corner at La Patisserie Méert, 27 rue Esquermoise.

Almost all shops are closed on Sundays, but shoppers need not worry: a 20-minute walk from the place de la République will bring you to the bustle of the crowded Wazemmes markets. Watch for pickpockets as you wander the rows of stalls offering clothes, food, plants and household goods. The open-air market is open on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday from 8am to 2pm and the covered hall every day but Monday. The nearest metro station is Gambetta.

INTO THE NIGHT

Lille has a lively and varied bar scene not least because of the city's 90,000-strong student population. Dozens of types of potent Flemish beer can be sampled at Café au Bureau, rue de Béthune or La Ducasse, 95 rue Solférino: just as popular is Les Trois Brasseurs, 22 place de la Gare (00 33 3 20 06 46 25) opposite Lille-Flandres station. Cocktails - around €6.50 (£4.65) - are the speciality at the Bateau Ivre, 41 rue Lepelletier, or African-themed La Pirogue, 16 rue Jean Jacques Rousseau not far from the cathedral.

For up-to-date entertainment listings including concerts, operas and dance performances at the sumptuously elegant just-reopened Opera (00 33 3 28 38 40 50; www.opera-lille.fr), jazz, ballet and theatre pick up a copy of weekly Sortir from the tourist office.

If you like to combine eating with entertainment, you might consider the Folies de Paris drag show (00 33 3 20 06 62 64; www.foliesdeparis.com). Alternatively, try more traditional cabaret in the form of 100 years of French (and some Belgian) song at La Petite Cave, 80 rue St André (00 33 3 20 06 60 66; www.lapetitecave.fr).

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