Somewhere for the weekend... Oslo

Norwegians are widely perceived to be among the most mellow of citizens, so it is little surprise that their capital should play host to one of Europe's most popular jazz festivals. In full swing since Monday, the annual jazz fest continues until this Sunday. The music ranges from mainstream to blues and swing, Chicago-style jazz and ragtime, with electronica adding a more contemporary feel. While there's a definite Scandinavian bias to the line-up, there's a fair international cast, too, including Joe Lovano on saxophone and John Abercrombie on guitar, and even a Welsh harpist teaming up with a jazz brass ensemble.

In all, there are 75 events, and while some concerts involve an admission fee, many others are free. Venues range from intimate jazz clubs to the ostentatious Grand Hotel, the city's cathedral and the open-air setting of Saras Telt, right in the centre of Oslo, and home to a handy tented bar.

The festival office is at Tollbugata 28 (00 47 22 42 91 20; www.oslojazz.no), while the tourist office is based near the town hall, or radhus, at Fridtjof Nansens plass 5 (00 47 2414 7700; www.visitoslo.no). You can obtain more details on Norway in general from the Norway office in London at Charles House, 5 Lower Regent Street, London SW1 (0906 302 2003/calls cost 50p per min; www.visitnorway.com).

DOWN PAYMENT

There are two good reasons for flying to Oslo's main airport at Gardermoen. The first is its stunning appearance. The second is the easy access by rail to Oslo's main station (Oslo S) for Nkr150 (£14) one way, taking 25 minutes; the airport bus charges the same for a return ticket, but takes 45 minutes. You can fly there on SAS (0870 60 727 727; www.scandinavian.net) for £142 return this weekend; or on British Airways (0870 850 9 850; www.ba.com) from Heathrow for £236 return or Manchester for £380. Norwegian (00 47 815 21 815; www.norwegian.no ) also flies from Stansted, with fares this weekend from £126 return. Ryanair (0871 246 0000; www.ryanair.com) flies from Stansted and Prestwick to Torp airport, 70 miles south of Oslo, for £145 and £62 respectively this weekend. The airport bus from here to the capital costs Nkr98 (£9) one way, and takes two hours.

INSTANT BRIEFING

Oslo can justifiably lay claim to being one of Europe's prettiest capitals, with a grace and charm that belie its origins as a tempestuous Viking capital. Its setting is delightful, tumbling as it does over a number of arms of the Oslo fjord, and climbing up into the surrounding hills. It is a low-slung capital, with few high-rise buildings, and though it is quite spread out, there are only 500,000 citizens.

There are plenty of fascinating museums to visit, but it is also a pleasant city through which to stroll, with plenty of parks and cafés. The many museums mean it is worth buying the Oslo Card, which offers free entry and public transport. The card ranges from Nkr190 (£18) for 24 hours, to Nkr370 (£35) for 72 hours, and can be bought from the tourist office.

REST ASSURED

Despite rivals in the top category, the Hotel Continental (00 47 22 82 40 00; www.hotelcontinental.no) remains the most graceful place to stay. Rooms cost from Nkr2,330 (£200) for a double, though the weekend rate drops to Nkr1,320 (£100), including an extensive buffet breakfast in the beautiful ground-floor breakfast room. A 15-minute walk from the centre, or a short ride on tram 10 or 13, is the Gabelshus hotell (Gabelsgate 16; 00 47 23 27 6500; www.gabelshus.no), a romantic, vine-covered affair with wood-panelled rooms costing from Nkr950 (£90) at weekends. In the centre, the Rainbow Norrona (Grensen 19; 00 47 23 31 8000; www.rainbow-hotels.no/norrona)has smart rooms from Nkr860 (£82), and a pleasant café on the ground floor. The best hostel is the Oslo Haraldsheim, (Haraldsheimveien 4, Grefsen; 00 47 22 22 29 65; www.haraldsheim.oslo.no) just two miles from the centre, and celebrating its 50th anniversary this year. It offers dorm beds from Nkr175 (£16.70) including breakfast. To reach it, take a train from Oslo central to Grefsen station.

MUST SEE

Museums are among Oslo's greatest draws, and some of the best are on the Bygdoy peninsula, reached by ferry (Nkr20/£1.90) from the harbour. Start with the Viking Ship Museum (00 47 22 43 8379; 9am-6pm, Nkr40/£3.80) close to the Dronningen pier, where the remains of three Viking burial ships are displayed, along with fascinating accounts of the life and times of those who used them. A signposted 10-minute walk leads to the outstanding Kon-Tiki Museum (00 47 23 08 67 67; 9.30am-5.45pm, Nkr35/£3.30), at Bygdoynes pier, which pays homage to Thor Heyerdahl, and includes the raft in which he sailed across the Pacific. Next door is the Fram Museum (00 47 23 28 2950; 9am-6.45pm; Nkr30/£2.85), which houses the polar ship Fram that took Roald Amundsen through the Northwest passage and later to Antarctica.

Back in the centre, fans of Edvard Munch in search of The Scream should head for the Munch Museum (00 47 23 24 14 00; Toyengate 53, 10am-6pm Nkr60/£5.70), and also the Stenersen Museum (00 47 23 49 36 00; Munkedamsveien 15; closed Monday, Nkr40/£3.80) which this year is holding an exhibition of Munch etchings that are too fragile to be exposed to daylight, so you are given a torch! Also, don't miss Vigeland Park, home to the fantastical human sculptures by Gustav Vigeland.

MUST BUY

Juhl's Silver Gallery (Roald Amundsen gate 6; 00 47 22 42 77 99) sells carefully designed Sami-based jewellery from the north of Norway, including bronze brooches for £30. The basement department of Norway Designs (Stortingsgaten 28; 00 47 23 00 45 10) sells attractive pottery, linen and tablecloths; while a Nordic sweater will set you back at least £90 at Husfliden (Mollergate 4; 00 47 24 1412 80), but will keep you warm.

MUST EAT

Eating out can be expensive in Oslo, but not everywhere. Set in one of Oslo's oldest buildings, Det Gamle Radhus, (Nedre Slotts gate 1; 00 47 22 42 01 07), offers fine and formal dining, including fried fjord mackerel or red deer with Russian peas and cranberries. Three courses cost around £45. Down by the fashionable Aker Brygge in the harbour area is the Lofoten fiskerestaurant (Stranden 75; 00 47 22 83 08 08) offering good food from northern Norway, with main courses around £20. At the cheaper end, the excellent self-service Vegeta Vertshus (Munkedamsveien 3b; 00 47 2 260 6250) offers filling fare for Nkr100 (£9.50).Nearby, at the Grand Café (00 47 23 21 20 00), Karl Johans gate 31, a cake and coffee will cost around £6. Henrik Ibsen was a regular, and his table is still reserved for him.

INTO THE NIGHT

There are hundreds of bars inviting you to part with £4.50 in return for half a pint of lager. Studenten (00 47 22 42 56 80), on the corner of Universitetsgaten 26, brews its own beer, while the Piano Bar at Banco Rotto (Grensen 10) stays open until 3am. Down by the harbour, the Albertine Café (Stranden 3; 00 47 22 83 00 60), with its great view, is the place to be at weekends.

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