Somewhere for the Weekend: Prague

WHY GO NOW?

The snow in central Europe is settling – deep and crisp and even – so the setting is suitably festive, and how better to get into the mood than to sip mulled wine and browse at one of the many Christmas markets held in squares across Prague? These open daily until 6 January, 9am-7pm. Along with stalls selling handicrafts and Christmas trees, you'll find barrels of live carp – the fish that Czechs eat at Christmas – from which shoppers select those that look tastiest. The best market setting is the Old Town Square, where you'll also find the tourist office in the town hall (Staromestske nam 1; 00 420 224 482 202; www.prague-info.cz), 9am-5pm daily. In the UK, call the Czech Tourist Authority (020-7631 0427). Other markets include Wenceslas Square, Republic Square and Havelska.

DOWN PAYMENT

The widest range of flights is on Czech Airlines (0870 444 3747; www.czechairlines.co.uk), from Birmingham, Heathrow, Stansted and Manchester. British Airways (0845 77 333 77; www.ba.com) flies from Heathrow. Bmibaby (0870 264 2229; www.bmibaby.com) and Go (bookable through easyJet, 0870 6000 000; www.easyJet.com) fly from East Midlands; Go also flies from Stansted and Bristol. The lowest fares are often on Czech Airlines from Stansted – and the cheapest deal this weekend is on this route, £143.80 return.

Prague's Ruzyne airport is 20km north-west of the city. A minibus runs between the airport and Republic Square, departing every 30 minutes 6am-9.30pm (journey time approx 30 mins) and costs Kc90 (£2). Prague is notorious for the greed of some of its taxi drivers; the official fare from the airport to the centre is around Kc400 (£9), but in reality most people have to pay Kc650 or Kc700 (about £15).

INSTANT BRIEFING

Prague straddles the Vltava river. Most of the areas of interest are on the east side: Wenceslas Square, the Old Town and New Town (the term is relative: the New Town was founded in 1348). The Castle and Mala Strana (Lesser Quarter) districts are on the west side. Go before the end of February, and you'll see a red neon heart on top of the Castle's St George Basilica: a tribute to the outgoing president, Vaclav Havel.

Prague is known as "the city of a hundred spires": in fact, there are closer to 500. Walking the beautiful streets and admiring the historical buildings is a delight. Most of the major sites are easily reached on foot, but Prague is well served by buses, metro and trams. Tickets are Kc12 (27p) each. They allow transfers within an hour (or 90 minutes after 8pm weekdays, and at weekends). Be sure to validate your ticket as soon as you board; fines are substantial.

REST ASSURED

The Hotel Josef (see Room Service) is a good choice, but for a complete contrast try the old-fashioned Art Nouveau Hotel Pariz (U Obecniho Domu 1; 00 420 222 195 195; www.hotel-pariz.cz). You can get a double for $145 (£100) through www.expedia.co.uk. Hotel Betlem Club (Betlemske nam 9; 00 420 222 221 574; www.betlemclub.cz) is well located in the Old Town, close to the Charles Bridge and the Old Town Square. Doubles are Kc2,800 (£62) including breakfast (served in a medieval cellar).

MUST SEE

Start in the Old Town Square. Towering over the east side are the Gothic twin towers of the Church of Our Lady Before Tyn; across the square, the Old Town Hall and much-photographed Astronomical Clock. Numerous other edifices, baroque, rococo and Gothic, surround the square. A few minutes' walk north brings you to the heart of Josefov, the old Jewish Quarter. Be sure to visit the Old Jewish Cemetery and the Old-New Synagogue (daily except Saturday, 9am-5pm, closed Fri from 2pm). A combined ticket also including the Jewish Museum is Kc450 (£10).

Were he to look out on the Feast of Stephen (or any other day), I suspect that the good King would be disappointed by Wenceslas Square: not really a square at all, more a bustling boulevard, home to gaudy shops, hotels and fast-food joints. Crossing the Charles Bridge, more than 600 years old and the second oldest bridge in central Europe, is a must. The bridge is almost always packed with tourists, souvenir stands and buskers, but offers sweeping views and is lined with some 30 baroque statues, mainly of saints.

Be sure to walk along the Royal Way up to Hradcany, the Castle District. The castle itself (daily 9am-4pm, Kc220 (£5) is packed with historical sights, including St Vitus Cathedral and the Old Royal Palace: those who enjoy surreal contrasts will want to see the Barbie doll collection in the Castle's Toy Museum. Not far from the Castle is the Loreta, a major centre of Christian pilgrimage. Many of the sights in this elegant baroque complex (daily except Mondays, 9am-12.15pm; 1pm-4.30pm, Kc100 /£2.20) are viewable only through murky glass windows; not so the Treasury, where the feature is a ludicrously ornate 1699 ostensory, 1m high, weighing over 12kg and studded with more than 6,000 diamonds.

For something modern, don't miss the Nationale Nederlanden Building by Legii Bridge: part-designed by Frank "Guggenheim" Gehry, it's better known as the "Dancing Building" or "Fred and Ginger".

MUST BUY

Simple wooden toys make excellent gifts for children, as do marionettes, on sale everywhere. Puppet-making is an ancient art but moves with the times: among the traditional folklore figures, especially witches, you'll also see Harry Potter. Quality varies, as does price. If you're confident of getting it back safely, buy Bohemian crystal from one of the many specialist shops.

MUST EAT

There is no shortage of fast-food outlets, and many inviting restaurants, often in cosy cellars. Czech cuisine tends to be heavy and meat-based. Dumplings are ubiquitous: the potato version is less rubbery than the bread one. Also, many different cuisines are now represented in cosmopolitan Prague. For reliable food in a lively atmosphere, try Klub Architektu (Betlemske Namesti 169/5A; 00 420 224 401 214), 11am-11.30pm. Mains around Kc150 (£3.30). Vegetarians flock to Lotos (Platnerska 13; 00 420 222 322 390). Or dine in romantic surroundings at the Francouszka (00 420 222 002 770), in the wonderful Obceni Dum building. Main courses around Kc800(£18) but there is a good Czech set menu for Kc1,250 (£28).

INTO THE NIGHT

Czech beer is among the best, and Prague's own Staropramen is no exception (Kc25-Kc50/50p-£1 for a half-litre). There are a number of small breweries in town, and a favourite is the atmospheric U Fleku (Kremencova 11; 00 420 224 934 019), said to be the oldest continuously operating brew pub (9am-11pm, and museum, 10am-4pm) in the world.

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