The best of Lausanne

Free of any major military conflict for centuries, Lausanne in Switzerland has become a safe-deposit box for the super-rich and, some would say, far too pleased with itself.

Free of any major military conflict for centuries, Lausanne in Switzerland has become a safe-deposit box for the super-rich and, some would say, far too pleased with itself. It's hard to find a blot on a city landscape where pristine tree-lined streets and perfectly manicured gardens lie in the shadow of the Alps and overlook Lake Leman. But for real atmosphere you'll have to venture up the hill to the St-François area. The huge Gothic cathedral, narrow, steep streets and quaint coffee-cum-chocolate shops hint at a forgotten time when Lausanne was home to renegade poets and writers seeking adventure. This is where Mary Shelley got the idea for Frankenstein after a typical rowdy night with her poet husband, Percy Bysshe Shelley, and his friend Lord Byron. It is also where F Scott Fitzgerald started Tender is the Night and where Graham Greene is buried. Though not part of the European Community, Lausanne sits, prim and pretty, at the heart of Europe.

Best hotel

The Beau Rivage Palace (00 41 21 613 3333; www.brp.ch) has been in the Ouchy district since 1861 when it relied on diesel for its power, only switching to electricity in 1962. It stands in a 10-acre floral garden next to the Hotel Angleterre and Residence, where Byron wrote The Prisoner of Chillon. The rooms in the Beau Rivage Palace are stylishly decorated and have period furniture. It also offers fine dining in La Rotonde and a tempting lunch menu at The Café Beau Rivage with views over the lake. Rates start at Sfr400 (£176) per person per night.

The Lausanne Palace and Spa (00 41 21 331 3131; www.lausanne-palace.ch), sits high above the city in the heart of the shopping district. It is popular with business people and dignitaries who take advantage of its spa and leisure facilities. Doubles start at Sfr300 per night (£132).

Best restaurant

Almost any meal out in Lausanne will make a sizeable dent in your wallet. The best place to start is La Grappe d'Or, 3 Rue Cheneau-de-Bourg (00 41 21 323 0769 www.lagrappedor.grandestables.ch). It is regarded by many as the best restaurant in town. Peter Baermann, the proprietor and chef, who has run the restaurant for more than 20 years, uses local produce to flavour regional dishes. Expect to pay around Sfr128 (£56) per head for three courses without wine.

Adolf Blokbergen's Auberge du Raison, Place de l'Hôtel-de-Ville 1 (00 41 21 799 2131; www.relaischateaux.com/raisin) specialises in spicy regional food and offers a large selection of Swiss wines. Lunch from Sfr89 (£39) while an evening meal will set you back from Sfr179 (£79) per person for three courses with wine.

Swiss in flavour and a little more affordable, Café Romand, Place St-François 2 (00 41 21 312 6375) is famous for its cheese fondues - very popular with students on a budget. A typical fondue will cost Sfr21 (£9). Around the corner, Manora (00 41 21 320 9293) is great for a quick bite and for kids who are allowed to run amok. Expect to pay about Sfr14 (£6) per adult. The children's menu costs Sfr5.40 (£2.50).

Best sightseeing

Lausanne is built on a hill and from the highest point, around the cathedral, you can enjoy wonderful views across the city. Down on the waterfront, there are beautifully landscaped gardens. Musée Romain de Lausanne-Vidy, 24 Chemin du Bois-de-Vaus at Site de Lousonna (00 41 21 315 4185) contains the remains of a Roman settlement dating back to 15BC and the Parc Mon-Repos, on the Avenue Mon-Repos, is a 19th-century English-style garden with an aviary featuring tropical birds.

Best cultural attraction

Lausanne is full of museums. The best and most famous is the Olympic Museum (00 41 21 621 65 11; www.olympic.org). After Baron Pierre de Coubertin resurrected the Olympic Games in 1896 he chose Lausanne as his base, which explains why the city is often referred to as the Olympic Capital. The museum tells the story of the Games back to its ancient Greek origins. Olympic memorabilia includes Dick Fosbury's high-jump shoe from the 1968 Games, where he unveiled his backwards jump, the Fosbury Flop, now used by all world-class high jumpers. There are interactive displays and a garden with sculptures of famous Olympians such as Emil Zatopek, who won three gold medals at the Helsinki Games of 1952.

The Collection de L'Art Brut, Avenue des Bergières 11 (00 41 21 315 2570; www.artbrut.ch), Espace Arlaud, Place de la Riponne 2bis (00 41 21 316 3850) and ESF Cyber Café, Place St-François 12 (00 41 21 320 4160; www.esf.ch) are a must.

There are also smaller spaces around the city, such as the Museum of Lausanne at Place de la Cathédrale 4, and the Espace des Inventions, at Vallée de la Jeunesse 1 (00 41 21 315 6880) - Lausanne's equivalent of the Science Museum.

Best shopping

Every Wednesday and Saturday the corkscrew streets of the old town become Marché du Centre, a huge meandering market for fruit and vegetable sellers, cheese-makers, butchers, bakers and fishmongers. A stroll down Rue de Bourg takes you past some of Lausanne's best shops.

The city also offers Bon Génie (00 41 21 345 2727; www.bongenie-grieder.ch), an upmarket department store which targets the Harvey Nichols corner of the market, and Globus (00 41 21 342 9090), which is on the lines of Selfridges. But for a spot of originality look out for the artisan stores.

There are watch shops, of course, and a Swiss Army knife shop on just about every corner. But remember, Lausanne is no place to hunt for bargains.

Best nightspots

The Flon district is awash with trendy bars, art galleries and clubs. If all-night dancing is your thing, head for L'Amnésia, Avenue Jacques-Dalcroze 9 (00 41 21 619 0650). Alternatively, there is the Café Kodiak, Rue Centrale 21 (00 41 21 323 5364) and Le Fellini, Galerie St-François (00 41 21 343 4400) bar which is great for social drinking before the all-night dancing. For more sedate pleasures, visit the Opéra de Lausanne, Avenue du Théâtre 12 (00 41 21 310 1600; www.opera-lausanne.ch). There is also a varied programme of informal entertainment in the Ouchy waterfront district.

How to get there

Swiss (0845-601 0956; www.swiss.com) operates four flights a day from Heathrow to Geneva with fares from £78 return. British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com) flies daily from Heathrow to Geneva from £121 return.

From Geneva airport take the fast train to Place de la Gare, a scenic journey of around half an hour along the banks of Lake Geneva, which costs around £20 return. To get around town, buy a Swiss Pass which allows unlimited travel on public transport and costs from Sfr 240 (£106) for four days.

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