The Best Of Rome

At the height of summer, Romans tend to leave for cooler climes.

At the height of summer, Romans tend to leave for cooler climes. But for my money, this is the perfect time to visit. Wherever you go within the Eternal City, you can't fail to be struck by the spectacular monuments, the sizzling sun bringing them to life. That's what makes summer in Rome so hot, sexy and sultry, just like it was when Fellini captured the city in La Dolce Vita. In August, you can escape the crowds and explore at your leisure, taking in the many open-air concerts and events, and stopping off at the watermelon stalls. And the best way to keep your cool while sightseeing is by jumping on a Vespa. That first lap round the Colosseum is hard to beat.

Best hotel

Housed in a stately, white, marble, 19th-century palazzo, the Exedra (00 3906 489381; www.boscolohotels.com) exudes elegance and grandeur. Overlooking the Baths of Diocletian and the Basilica di Santa Maria degli Angeli, this neo-classical monument has a modern heart. Hundreds of small spots light up the vaults and porticoes, and plasma television sets are found in place of paintings along the walls and in the lifts. Take a dip in the rooftop pool with great views of the Roman skyline. Double rooms from €209 (£140) per night.

It may have only a one-star rating, but the Hotel Navona (00 3006 686 4203; www.hotelnavona.com) is hard to beat at the price. Expect good-size rooms and an enviable position near the Piazza Navona, Rome's central square. You'll be in good company - Keats and Shelley once occupied the top floor. Double rooms from €120 (£80) per night.

Best restaurant

With its menu changing monthly, Agata e Romeo, Via Carlo Alberto, 45 (00 3006 446 6115), serves traditional dishes with a light and innovative touch. Don't miss the grilled tuna rolled in hazelnuts if it's available, or the pasta with broccoli and cauliflower served in skate broth. If you've still got room, try the signature desert, millefoglie, puff pastry stuffed with almonds and sweetened cream. From £40 per head for three courses without wine. Booking essential.

Antico Bottaro, Passeggiata di Ripetta, 15 (00 3906 323 6763), is housed in a series of elegant vaulted rooms and offers good food with a Neapolitan slant. Seafood dominates the menu in this pretty, candlelit restaurant. From £23 per head for three courses without wine. Booking advisable.

For good, cheap, home cooking, queue at Trattoria Da Sergio, Vicolo delle Grotte, 27 (00 3906 686 4293). Always crammed, this classic trattoria dishes up hearty fare, including terrific wood-oven pizzas. From £10 per head for three courses without wine.

Best exhibition

Rome might not be up with Milan when it comes to fashion but it does have the kudos of housing the Giorgio Armani Retrospective at the Baths of Diocletian. The exhibition includes more than 500 Armani creations and is interpreted by experimental theatre director Robert Wilson. The exhibition runs until 1 August. Open Tuesday-Sunday, 10am-6.45pm. Admission: €8 (£5).

Best shopping

For top gear head to Via Condotti, Via Frattina and Via Borgognona, just a hop from the Spanish Steps and lined with all the top designers' shops.

Best sightseeing

The Colosseum is a good starting point and it doesn't take much imagination to see before you the 50,000-strong crowds which once packed in here to see gladiators spill each other's blood. Next on your list should be the Palatine and Capitoline Hills, crammed with ancient relics and perfect for strolling among the orange trees, oleander and cypresses. Still feeling energetic? The Vatican museums and the Galleria Borghese with their Titians, Raphaels and Caravaggios will keep you occupied for at least a day.

Best nightspot

Partying in Rome is a lazy and leisurely affair. Much of the traditional nightlife is focused on the Campo de' Fiori and to the northwest of Piazza Navona. The cool crowd makes for trendy and happening Ostiense. Hot spot of the moment is Ex Magazzini, 8/Bis Via dei Magazzini Generali, a hip club-cum-bar-cum-performance space in a converted warehouse.

Opera di Roma showcases a great repertoire of work. Teatro Constanzi, the main house, features opera and ballet, includingThe Magic Flute and Swan Lake, while the open-air Summer Programme at the Baths of Caracalla features music mainly by Verdi. For full listings, visit www.operaroma.it.

How to get there

Fiumicino, Rome's main airport, is served by British Airways and Alitalia from London Heathrow. British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com) offers returns from £98. Alitalia (0870 544 8259; www.alitalia.co.uk) offers returns from £89. A taxi to the city centre costs about €40 (£26.70) and takes around 25 minutes. Direct trains run every 30 minutes; journey time 30 minutes, cost €9.50 (£6.35).

Ciampino, Rome's second airport is served by easyJet and Ryanair from London Stansted. EasyJet (0870 600 0000; www.easyjet.com) offers returns from £41. Ryanair (0871 246 000 www.ryanair.com) offers returns from £12. A taxi to the centre costs about €60 (£40) and takes 45 minutes. Terravision buses connect to the centre; cost €8 (£5.35), journey time 50 mins.

When in Rome do as the Romans do and get on a Vespa. It really is the best way of seeing the sights. Happy Rent (00 3906 481 8185; www.happyrent.com) offers daily scooter hire from €38 (£25)

A three-day BTR (regional tourist ticket) costs from €6.50 to €28.50 (depending on how many areas you cross) and is valid on all public transport. For further information contact The Italian State Tourist Board (020-7408 1254; www.enit.it).

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