The Best Of Zurich

For decades Zurich has had the reputation of being one of the most boring cities in the world; a city to do business in, or to swiftly fly in and out of en route to your annual winter sports holiday.

For decades Zurich has had the reputation of being one of the most boring cities in the world; a city to do business in, or to swiftly fly in and out of en route to your annual winter sports holiday.

This year, however, you would be well advised to spend at least a couple of days here before sliding off to the slopes. Not only does the banking capital of Switzerland exude great 19th-century charm with its classical buildings and great sights, but it also has recently reinvented itself as one of the hippest cities in Europe.

Visitors over the winter can take advantage of great forthcoming attractions such as the new Monet exhibition, the concert and opera house season, open-air skating in the courtyard of the Swiss National Museum and sledding at Uetliberg, Zurich's hillside park.

Best hotels

The Widder Hotel (00 41 1 224 25 26; www.widderhotel.ch) is one of the smartest and most sumptuous addresses in town. Cleverly secreted within 10 historic houses dating from the 11th century just off the Bahnhofstrasse, in the heart of the smart shopping and banking district, this five-star property manages to pack in 42 large deluxe rooms and nine suites. Each is dramatically different and ranges from the ultra-modern to the historic, with 11th-century frescoes, furniture by designers such as Corbusier and Eames and large leather bedspreads. Doubles from Sfr440 (£193) per night, including breakfast.

Perfectly located for all the major attractions, The Sorrel Hotel Seefeld (00 41 1 387 41 41; www.hotel-seefeld.ch) is hard to beat. The 64 contemporary rooms come with state-of-the-art technology and chic furnishings. Head up to the rooftop terrace, which has panoramic views of Lake Zurich, the city and of the mountains. Double rooms from Sfr250 (£110) per night, including breakfast.

Just a stone's throw from the main railway station on the banks of the River Limmat is the trendy Hotel Limmatblick (00 41 1 254 60 00; www.limmatblick.ch). This comfortable three-star hotel has 16 minimalist rooms and also houses the highly popular Dada bar on the ground floor. Doubles from Sfr190 (£83) per night, including breakfast.

Best restaurant

Right at the heart of the banking district, Kaufleuten (00 41 1 225 33 33) is a great brasserie, bar and nightclub. The food is excellent and the menu eclectic with Thai and Japanese dishes along with good Mediterranean and fusion fare. About Sfr102 (£45) per head for three courses including wine. Booking recommended. Kronenhalle (00 41 1 251 66 69) has a long pedigree and attracts an arty crowd. The walls are hung with original works by Picasso, Matisse and Miro. Tuck into hearty Swiss and French dishes such as smoked pork with lentils and sole baked with olives and tomatoes. Around Sfr91 (£40) per head for three courses including wine. Booking essential. Zurich's hip crowd hangs out Nooba (00 41 43 243 60 06), a cool noodle bar serving pan-Asian cuisine. About Sfr34 (£15) each including beer.

Best cultural attraction

The Museum of Fine Arts (www.kunsthaus.ch) is one of the most important in Europe, devoted mostly to art from the 19th and 20th centuries. Monet's Garden is a new exhibition devoted to showcasing the artist's "open air studio", which inspired him to paint the landscapes surrounding his homes in Sèvres, Vetheuil and Giverny. Some 75 paintings will be on show. The exhibition runs from the end of October to the end of February.

Best shopping

Swiss chic doesn't come finer than in Zurich and you can find all the big-name designers on the swanky Bahnhofstrasse and the side streets leading down to the River Limmat. There are also some small boutiques and design shops located in the old town.

Best sightseeing

Zurich is compact and easy to get around on foot. Don't miss the outstanding Grossmunster Cathedral, which looms over the cobbled streets of the city, nor the stained-glass windows designed by Giacometti in the 1930s. Stroll along the quays of Zurich, which run along the river and the lake. Most have pretty gardens backing on to them and are delightful in winter. Take a steamer out on the lake for views of the snow-covered mountains.

Best nightspot

Start the evening with cocktails in the bar at the Widder Hotel, then move on to Moods, Schiffbaustrasse 4, one of the best jazz bar clubs in Europe housed in the Schiffbau arts complex in West Zurich. Top nightclub of the moment is Indochine, Seefeldstrasse 120.

Best way to get there

Cresta Holidays (0870 333 3303; www.crestaholidays.co.uk) offers a two-night b&b break at the three-star Hotel Zurich from £242 per person, including flights. British Airways (0870 850 9850; www.ba.com) flies from Heathrow to Zurich from £94 return and from Gatwick from £67 return. Zurich airport is on the edge of the city and trains run every 10 minutes to the city centre. Journey time 10 minutes. Zurich Tourism (00 41 44 215 40 00; www.zuerich.com). Swiss Tourism (www.myswitzerland.com).

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