The Ethical Travel Guide: Europe

BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA

For the first time since the 15th century, Bosnia and Herzegovina is an independent state once again. In many ways this new country struggles for an identity of its own, having been embraced by its larger and more powerful neighbours for over 500 years.

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Sarajevo epitomises the sacred melange of Islam, Christianity and Judaism, and this quickly changing city has been reborn into one of the most fascinating cultural bastions in south-east Europe. Tourism has been very helpful for bridge-building in Bosnia and Herzegovina, enabling fractured communities to come together again and to rekindle ancient ties. Bosnia and Herzegovina is an inexpensive, new and exciting country, and one of the few remaining unexplored spots in Europe.

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EASTERN EUROPE HOLIDAYS

Eastern Europe Holidays offers tailor-made tours for small groups of two to 10 people. Each group is given a dedicated guide and driver and unlimited use of a private vehicle for the duration of the tour. The tours can vary from skiing and rafting to historical and cultural adventures.

Tel 00 387 6198 4458

E-mail brobinson@e-europeholidays.com

Web www.e-europeholidays.com

GREEN VISIONS

Green Visions is a tour operator dedicated to promoting and preserving the cultural and natural heritage of Bosnia and Herzegovina. It sees eco-tourism as a way to protect the highland communities of the central Dinaric Alps. It follows a low-trace, no-impact policy, organising small group mountain tours to the "old world European" villages throughout the country. Green Visions provides accommodation, transport, guides, meals and activities. These can vary from hiking, walking, biking, rafting, wildlife observation and medicinal-herb picking to skiing or snow-shoeing. Visitors stay in rustic but cosy home-stays in the mountains, enjoying traditional organic food and have a real chance to mingle with the local population.

Tel 00 387 3371 7290

E-mail Sarajevo@greenvision.ba

Web www.greenvisions.ba

GREECE

With great weather, sandy beaches and turquoise seas, it is easy to see why Greece continues to be so popular. With its endless past, from ancient temples to Byzantine churches and Crusader castles, it is a place of pilgrimage for historians of every era. But the more intrepid traveller can also find plenty of interest. With more than 1,400 islands, only 169 of which are inhabited, island-hopping can still provide a sense of adventure.

The Greek mainland also has much to offer - Athens, bristling with self-confidence after the successful Olympic Games, is a lively, vibrant if smoggy city. Much of the mainland is comparatively little visited in relation to Greece's islands, but is ideal for exploring on foot and contains a great variety of landscapes, from the extraordinary monasteries precariously built on rocks at Meteora to Mount Olympus, home of the gods and still a place to inspire awe.

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ECOCLUB

This award-winning website is an international clearing house for eco-tourism information. You can book your stay in genuine eco-lodges at lower rates and no commission is charged to either you or the lodge.

Tel 00 30 210 671 9671

E-mail a@ecoclub.com

Web http://ecoclub.com/lodges.html, www.ecoclub.com

LEVENDIS ESTATE

Everything Levendis does is geared to the health of the environmentally fragile island of Ithaca. Your spending on the island will benefit local families and businesses, and you can even buy trees to offset the carbon emissions of your flight to Greece.

Tel 00 30 694 416 9770

E-mail levendis@otenet.gr

Web www.levendisestate.com

MILIA RESTORED TRADITIONAL CRETAN SETTLEMENT

"Peace and quiet in prodigious amounts" are promised if you stay in one of Milia's 14 restored guest-houses that offer simplicity, good taste and basic comforts. You need not cook - there is a restaurant and the food is either home-grown or sourced locally, while the project also uses solar power, and promotes recycling and sensible water use.

Tel 00 30 282 104 6774/282 205 1569

Email: milia@cha.forthnet.gr

Web www.milia.gr, www.i-escape.com, www.atg-oxford.co.uk

NIKKI ROSE SEMINARS/CULINARY SANCTUARIES

If you're a foodie, love the Med and you're into the slow food movement, look no further than Crete's Culinary Sanctuaries, which is dedicated to preserving local skills and trades. See organic olive oil production, bee-keeping, wine-making and cheese-making, as well as visiting villages off the map and taking walks in magnificent, wild countryside.

Tel 00 30 284 104 2797

E-mail nikkirose@cookingincrete.com

Web www.cookingincrete.com

ITALY

Italy did not become a unified country until 1861, and as a result more cultural identity is attached to its nine regions than to the nation as a whole. This is expressed through very distinct dialects, culinary habits and different standards of living across the country.

There is a strong north/south divide: the north is a rapidly growing industrialised society, while the south suffers from low literacy rates, economic and social depression and still operates under a pseudo-feudal system. However, it is the central regions that perhaps characterise the essence of the best of Italy. The rolling landscape of Tuscany not only offers great opportunities for trekking, but also boasts more classified historical monuments than any other country in the world.

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ECOVILLAGE TORRI SUPERIORE

Torri Superiore dates from the 13th century and consists of an eight-level stone-built structure. There are three main buildings separated by partly covered alleys, and in all, the complex has about 160 rooms linked by a maze of stairways, terraces and corridors. In the 1990s a group of people set out to save this amazing place from a slow death. Today this co-operative owns part of the village, with the remainder owned by individuals. If the idea of living in a caring eco-community and eating good home-sourced food around a communal table while being able to retreat to your own space appeals, then this could be a rewarding experience.

Tel 00 39 184 215 504

E-mail info@torri-superiore.org

Web www.torri-superiore.org

PORTUGAL

Portugal is about more than the Algarve. Its western coast is less explored, wilder and more charismatic than the south, while in the Sierra do Estrela mountains are great for skiing in the winter, and walking throughout the year. The Alentejo in the centre is the agricultural hub of Portugal, beautiful but little visited. Dotted across the country are hotels known as pousadas, some converted from castles but all relatively inexpensive for luxury accommodation.

Portugal's past, from Magellan to John the Navigator, has left the country with a rich architectural heritage. There are numerous towns, such as Coimbra and Braga, worth visiting for their fortress-like granite cathedrals. In the north is the stately city of Porto on the river Douro, home of port wine, and in the south is the vibrant, cosmopolitan city of Lisbon, with its lively nightlife in the Bairra Alto.

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CEGONHA BRANCA

Cegonha Branca organises accommodation with two different communities; in Sintra and Vaiada Rabatejo, situated between mountains, the sea and the river Tejo valley. The company can arrange a variety of activities including trekking, abseiling, canoeing, yoga, scuba-diving, surfing, bodyboarding and visits to local organic farmers, craft shops and wine cellars. Cegonha Branca supports communities by providing training for local people to enable them to work closely with the environment and use the best recycling practices.

Tel 00 351 213 867 021

E-mail cegonhabranca@mail.pt

QUINTA DA COMENDA

This agri-organic lodge in the mountainous region of Porto has five double rooms, one triple and one flat equipped for disabled people, and offers accommodation on a bed-and-breakfast basis. It helps the local community by providing employment, recycling and teaching eco-preservation techniques that benefit the surrounding environment. A completely organic farm, with swimming pool, table games, gardens and walking, guests can also take part in grape harvesting or fruit-picking.

Tel 00 351 226 179 889/966 701 997

E-mail quintadacomenda@sapo.pt

Web www.quintadacomenda.com

RUSSIA

Europe's highest peak, Mount Elbrus, in the Russian caucasus presents a serious challenge even to experienced mountaineers. For those interested in wildlife, ecological and scientific tours offer a peek into the habitats of the rare Siberian tiger. Russia offers the chance for exquisite and unique encounters with nature, including watching seals in Lake Baikal, the biggest freshwater lake on earth, and spotting beluga whales in the White Sea.

After years of Soviet politics Russians have begun to rethink their magnificent cultural heritage. Christian orthodox monasteries are being restored, and those turned into gulags under Stalin's rule, such as on the Solovki islands, are being re-opened as museums.

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FIRN TRAVEL

Firn Travel runs cultural and ecological tours and implements projects to promote sustainable tourism in the Lake Baikal region of eastern Siberia. It was founded by Club Firn, a not-for-profit local NGO. The company offers nature, historical, ethnographic and active (kayaking, walking, cycling etc) tours, all centred around the lake, which is the biggest, deepest and oldest in the world.

Tel 00 7 301 221 6250/301 221 6723

E-mail info@firntravel.ru/larisa@firnclub.ru

Web http://firntravel.ru

SERBIA & MONTENEGRO

Despite a negative image that has dogged Serbia, the largest of the former Yugoslav republics, tourism is making a steady comeback.

The country boasts ancient Orthodox monasteries, often in serene nature settings, which have been fundamental to Serbian spiritual life since the early Middle Ages. And Kopaonik to the south-west is the best mountain resort in the country, offering excellent skiing, hiking and fine traditional foods.

The mountain country of Montenegro is said to be the oldest "state" in the western Balkans. The seaside resorts and tourist towns are well known for their crystal-clear waters and breathtaking mountains towering behind.

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UNPD LO PODGORICA

This United Nations Development Programme project is implementing a sustainable tourism programme in the Durmitor National Park, a World Heritage Site. The aim is to promote and upgrade two sustainable tourism services - rafting and hiking.

Tel 00 381 8123 1251

Email: sanja@undp.org, bojanic@undp.org, tomica.paovic@undp.org

Web www.undp.org.yu/montenegro, www.destination-durmitor.org; www.durmitor.com

SLOVAKIA

As one of the newest members of the European Union, Slovakia has become an insider tip for a short and inexpensive weekend getaway. Its capital, Bratislava, is a youthful and vibrant city. The countryside is full of majestic mountains, lush river valleys and historical towns and castles, while nature lovers should definitely visit some of the numerous Slovak nature parks.

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SLOVAKIA GREEN TOURS

This is a partnership between the operator Slovakia Green Tours and a group called Green View, which specialises in environmental services. This is a new project (operational since January 2005) but a range of one- and five-day eco-tours is already on offer. These tours focus on the birds and other natural phenomena of the country, and the company also works closely with local authorities, and local craftsmen and guides. Its aim is conservation, both of nature and the threatened skills of local people.

Tel 00 421 252 491 641/908 989 069

Email: Petra@Slovakiagreentours.com

Web www.slovakiagreentours.com

Guilt-free flying

Half the population of the UK flies at least once a year. Air travel is the fastest-growing source of greenhouse gas emissions, with the world's 16,000 commercial jet aircraft creating more than 600m tonnes of CO2 annually. So what should we do?

* Avoid air travel where possible.

* Research your airline. If possible, choose one that recognises its responsibility to work towards lower emissions.

* Offset your carbon emissions. Register with one of the companies that works out your contribution to global warming, and make a donation to support green projects.

* Support the Emissions Trading Scheme to reduce CO2 emissions. It requires net carbon polluters, such as airlines, to buy carbon credits to offset emissions. Funds raised are used to support green projects.

'The Ethical Travel Guide' by Polly Pattullo with Orely Minelli is published by Earthscan at £12.99. To order your copy with free p&p call Independent Books Direct on 08700 798 897. Events are being held at Stanford's bookshops in Covent Garden on 26 April, in Manchester on 27 April and Bristol on 10 May. For an invitation or for more information email gudrun.freese@earthscan.co.uk or visit www.earthscan.co.uk

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