The Hedonist: Rendezvous in fair Verona

What to see and where to be seen

After checking in to Verona's Palazzo Victoria (00 39 045 590 566; palazzo victoria.com), I saunter through the polished lobby to my humongous suite. There, I'm greeted by classical decor, parquet flooring and a king-sized bed perfect for a Montague or Capulet. But time is of the essence, so I make a quick turn around before heading out to meet my friend – a local – for dinner.

I pass "Juliet's balcony" which, of course, has nothing to do with Shakespeare. Apparently, touching the left breast of the maiden's statue here will transmit years of luck in love. Desperate times call for desperate measures, so I give her a rub and march through the bustling piazzas.

Teodoricore (00 39 045 834 9990; teodoricore. com) is a classic Veronese restaurant atop Castel San Pietro hill, which is a serious climb. After several pit stops (perhaps the figure-hugging, leg-constricting maxi dress wasn't a good idea), I make it to the top in dire need of a stiff drink. Happily, a tanned gent in a cream suit offers me the house bellini before I've even sat down.

Cocktail in hand, I turn from Teodoricore's expansive terrace to the exquisite panorama across Verona's burnt-orange tiled rooftops. My friend arrives and we dig into delicious seafood risotto and seared mint tuna, giving us the stomach lining upon which a hedonistic night out depends. After a few too many glasses of prosecco, we go, giggling and giddy, into the heart of Verona.

We polish off two mojitos and bellinis at Caffè Filippini (00 39 045 800 4549; caffefilippini.it) before heading off to the nightclub Alter Ego (00 39 045 915 130; alteregoclub.it). The sight of long-legged ladies hanging off besuited men outside tells us we're at the right place, and we hit the dance floor. By 3am we're saying heartfelt goodbyes for the night and we go our separate ways.

I stir late, and just about recognise my friend as I enter our breakfast rendezvous at Tosca Café (00 39 045 803 2226; toscacafeverona.it). It's a significantly more subdued meal than our last, as we hazily tuck into a slew of breads and pastries in the hope of feeling slightly more human. No such luck, so I opt for retail therapy instead.

We float around the side streets until we are ready to face the spotless, reflective shop windows of Via Mazzini, the main shopping drag. But then we get straight down to business. My friend ducks in to MaxMara (00 39 045 595 623; maxmara.com), while a delicious pair of heels at Pollini (00 39 045 803 2247; www.pollini.com) catches my eye. I'm not sure whether it's the air con, the ambience or the pervasive sense of luxury, but the shop does wonders for my head – and feet. Refreshed and smug in shiny new shoes, I stroll back to the hotel.

After a long wallow in my room's Jacuzzi and sporting the killer new heels, I brave the streets, perilous with cobbles, and make for the ancient opera house, the Roman Arena (00 39 045 800 5151; www.arena.it), where I relocate my friend, deep in conversation with two charming Italian guys. We soon find ourselves agreeing to be taken back to the Alter Ego club. Just in time, too, as crowds begin teeming out of the amphitheatre's performance of Don Giovanni.

A Hedonist's Guide to ... (Hg2) is a luxury city guide series for the more decadent traveller. For more information , see hg2.com

Independent Comment
blog comments powered by Disqus
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
News in pictures
World news in pictures
       
Independent
Travel Shop
India and Shimla
14 nights from only £1899pp Find out more
Prague city break
Three nights from £199pp Find out more
4* Soreda hotel break, Malta
Seven nights all-inclusive from £399pp Find out more

ES Rentals

    Independent Dating
    and  

    By clicking 'Search' you
    are agreeing to our
    Terms of Use.

    Day In a Page

    National archives: Edward VIII’s phone calls - and how MI5 bugged them

    Edward VIII’s phone calls - and how MI5 bugged them

    Newly unearthed papers reveal a shocking extra dimension to the constitutional crisis over monarch’s abdication
    Sent down at the Old Bailey: A tour of the world's most famous court

    Sent down at the Old Bailey

    A tour of the world's most famous court
    Hollywood's random acts of red-carpet kindness

    Hollywood's random acts of red-carpet kindness

    The Hangover actor Zach Galifianakis’s date for his movie premieres isn’t arm candy  – it’s his 87-year-old friend who he saved from homelessness
    British football scores an own goal

    British football scores an own goal

    Many managers barely survive a year in post. Martin Baker talks to experts who make a case for clubs using forensic business skills to find the best staff
    James Lawton: Sergio Garcia cracks as major fault line opens up again

    James Lawton

    Sergio Garcia cracks as major fault line opens up again
    Dylan Hartley: Northampton have spent the season proving all our critics wrong

    Dylan Hartley talks tough

    Northampton have spent the season proving all our critics wrong
    Watch out Watford: Here comes the secretive Bilderberg Group

    Watch out Watford: Here comes the secretive Bilderberg Group

    A meeting of global power brokers in a Hertfordshire hotel is exciting conspiracy theorists, but what are they really about?
    'The ultimate all-in-one home entertainment system': Microsoft finally unveils its Xbox ONE console

    'The ultimate all-in-one home entertainment system'

    Microsoft finally unveils its Xbox ONE console
    Plenty of Fish dating site founder pulls 'Intimate Encounters' option to ward off sleazy men

    Plenty of sleaze

    Dating website pulls intimate 'hook-up' section to curb harassment
    Inferno author Dan Brown 'honoured' to be invited to join the Freemasons

    The Freemasons’ Code

    Dan Brown reveals the message that told him door to the lodge is open
    Not secure any more: G4S boss heads for exit at last

    Not secure any more: G4S boss heads for exit at last

    Nick Buckles survived the Olympics débâcle and a £5bn bid fiasco but a profit warning finally triggered his downfall
    How to say ‘I’m a sellout’: Tumblr’s David Karp’s message of reassurance to his staff sounded very familiar

    How to say ‘I’m a sellout’

    Tumblr’s David Karp’s message of reassurance to his staff sounded very familiar
    Why clubs are keen to take a stand

    Why clubs are keen to take a stand

    There's a real desire around the grounds for safe standing. But will the authorities listen?
    In the end the fans decided Tony Pulis had made a pig's ear of the job at Stoke City

    In the end the fans decided Tony Pulis had made a pig's ear of the job at Stoke City

    Disillusion with a siege mentality and negative playing style made change inevitable
    James Lawton: The James Hunt I knew is the subject of a new F1 movie

    James Lawton: The James Hunt I knew is the subject of a new F1 movie

    British driver was fascinating man whose epic duel with Niki Lauda in 1976 was typical of an era of glamour and glory – but also the ever-present threat of death