Valentines' Special: 24 Hours In: Prague
Sunday, 12 February 2006
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Room with a castle view
9.00: Those who think Paris or Rome are the most romantic cities in Europe have never woken up in Prague. Hotel U Pava, at U Luzickeho Seminare 32, (00 420 257 533 360; www.romantichotels.cz) is right next to Charles Bridge. Ask for a room on the third floor so as to gaze up at the castle. Doubles from £115 per night with breakfast.
Bridge of romantic sighs
10.00: Stroll across Charles Bridge, with its 30 sculptures that date to the 17th century; from the cobbles to the swans, this is one of Europe's most romantic river crossings.
Astronomical clock-watching
10.30: Charles Bridge leads to Old Town Square. Position yourself at 10.55am before the astronomical clock, where the 12 apostles are wheeled round on the hour.
Pause for a pancake
11.05: The clock is next to Café Milena at Staromestske Namesti 22 (00 420 221 632 602), which does delicious pancakes (palacinky) and coffee with whipped cream (videnska kava).
No escape from the crowd
11.30: Prague is home to Josefov, one of Europe's oldest Jewish quarters. Head down Maiselova Street to reach the Old Jewish Cemetery, where an estimated 20,000 souls are stacked up in 12 layers.
Food for artistic souls
13.00: Time for lunch. Swirling lines and mirrors make the Municipal House at Namesti Republiky 5 (00 420 222 002 101) Prague's homage to Art Nouveau. The food, from salads to sandwiches, is good too.
Cathedral and Kafka
14.00: Return across Charles Bridge and plod uphill to Prague Castle (www.hrad.cz). The main interest is St Vitus Cathedral, which dates from the 14th century, but behind it is Golden Lane, a row of tiny houses seemingly built for Hobbits. Franz Kafka stayed at No 22.
Follow the saints' way
16.00: Walk uphill from the cathedral for five minutes to reach the peaceful grounds of Strahov Monastery and the cloisters of the Loreta pilgrimage site (www.strahovskyklaster.cz).
Quaff a half litre
17.00: Walk back down the hill and dive into U Zlateho Tygra (the Golden Tiger) at 17 Husova (00 420 222 221 111; www.uzlatehotygra.cz), one of Prague's defiantly unpretty pubs. Vaclav Havel brought Bill Clinton here for a beer.
Dine off a Bohemian menu
19.30: Forget red roses, dine at the Blue Rose restaurant at Rytirska 16 (00 420 224 225 873; www.umodreruze.cz) with Bohemian favourites such as dumplings and duck. Around £30 per person.
Thought crime and becherovka
22.00: Head to the river for a view of night-time Prague. Go to Café Slavia at Narodni 1 (00 420 224 218 493), where Havel and fellow dissidents used to gather to commit their thought crimes. Try becherovka, the local liqueur.
