'Will anything be open in Venice at Christmas?'

Q. We have booked a late holiday in Venice over the Christmas and New Year period. We would prefer not to have our Christmas lunch in the hotel, but will any restaurants be open? And what festive things can we expect to do and see while we are there? We'd like to find something to keep us all happy mum, dad and two daughters, aged nine and 12. D Hulme, via email

A. Venice is an attractive choice for a winter break, and, if you are lucky with the weather, it can either be crisp and sunny or atmospherically misty. December is less rainy than autumn; however, these romantic mists can develop into rather impractical fog, and there are still cases of flooding in low-lying areas so bring your waterproofs. The festivities are less commercial than in the UK, with the emphasis on religious and family celebrations. That said, it is still a wonderful place for a family Christmas.

To get you into the spirit, Christmas markets are held in city squares such as Campo Santi Apostoli, Campo San Luca, Campo San Salvador, and Campo San Polo. "Christmas on the Lagoon" is a popular market in the San Marco area (Campo Santo Stefano, San Marco; www.nataleinlaguna.com) which runs until 23 December from 10.30am to 7.30pm. Stalls sell Venetian glass, lace, perfume, food and drink, and there are concerts to keep the crowds amused. Christmas concerts are held in churches across the island, but a festive highlight is midnight mass on Christmas Eve at St Mark's Basilica.

And now to address the important question of lunch. Italians celebrate Christmas with a family meal on both 24 and 25 December. On Christmas Eve, it is customary to abstain from eating meat, so fish dishes are eaten instead. Fortunately, Venice has an abundance of seafood restaurants, particularly around the fish market. Locals often desert the city at this time of year, and many restaurants close for the week, so you might find it difficult to find somewhere to have your Christmas meal. One that does open for lunch on Christmas Eve is Corte Sconta (Calle del Pestrin, Castello 3886; 00 39 041 522 7024). It is a slightly formal option in the Castello area east of San Marco, but is famed for its extensive seafood antipasti selection. Be sure to book in advance.

Should you arrive in Venice before Christmas Eve, then try the Trattoria alla Madonna (Calle della Madonna, San Polo 594; 00 39 041 522 3824; www.ristoranteallamadonna.com). A reassuringly short walk from the fish market, this is a family-friendly trattoria where you will be able to sample some classic Venetian fish dishes such as vermicelli al nero di seppia (noodles in squid ink) and zuppa di pesce (fish soup). After dinner on 22 December it closes until January. Another popular, if hard to find, destination in Castello is Alle Testiere (Castello 5801; 00 39 041 522 7220). A mere six tables fill this small and inviting osteria, which serves polished, locally sourced cuisine. Again, it closes for Christmas on 22 December, reopening in mid-January.

As for Christmas lunch, there is no particular ritual meal that you can look out for, but expect to see roast meats, pasta, soups, and panettone, all in typically indulgent quantities. Bearing in mind the difficulty of finding good local restaurants that are open over Christmas, hotel restaurants are a good option. Understandably, you would prefer to venture out of your own hotel, so perhaps you could try one of the many other hotels that offer dining.

The Grand Canal Restaurant at the Hotel Monaco, for example, (San Marco 1332; 00 39 041 520 0211; www.hotelmonaco.it) has excellent views of the canal and offers an à la carte menu with an extensive range of fish and meat dishes. Alternatively, De Pisis at the luxurious Hotel Bauer (San Marco 1459; 00 39 041 520 7022; www.bauervenezia.com) has a traditional set lunch with dishes such as pumpkin ravioli and chicken stuffed with chestnut and foie gras: the ideal place to revert to a carnivorous Christmas.

If you are determined not to dine in a hotel, then Locanda Cipriani (00 39 041 730 150; www.locandacipriani.com), on the outlying island of Torcello, is one of the few restaurants that opens on Christmas Day. For that reason you'll have to reserve as soon as possible for its high-class menu of pasta, fish and rice.

Since you are also staying for New Year's Eve, you'll be able to enjoy the Feast of San Silvestro, again traditionally celebrated with a lengthy family meal. You would be advised to plan ahead and make reservations for this busy night. After dinner, you could take a walk to the Piazza San Marco, the final destination of a large parade starting in Campo Santa Margherita, with music, fireworks and prosecco at midnight. New Year's Day, on the other hand, would be best spent on the Lido, the small island just south of the main island. Easily reached by vaporetto, the Lido still has the relaxed atmosphere of a beach retreat. New Year's Day celebrations begin with the first swim of the year at midday perhaps a bit bracing for some but certainly worth a look followed by spiced sausages, lentils and wine on the beach.

For more information visit www.turismovenezia.it.

Send your family travel queries to The Independent Parent, Travel Desk, The Independent, 191 Marsh Wall, London E14 9RS, or email crusoe@independent.co.uk

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