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The Independent Travel
Boukari

This seaside hamlet south of Messongi is perfect for misanthropists. The Vlachopoulos family have rooms at their Houkari Beach taverna (from pounds 15 a night) and at their nearby Hotel Penelopi (pounds 30 a night; tel: 00 30 662 51269/51792). Eat here or at the Almond Tree or Sparos tavernas towards Messongi.

Ayios Stefanos (West)

Least developed of the west coast resorts, with vast bucket-and-spade beaches and access to Diapontia islands, which shouldn't be missed. Nafsika (00 30 663 51 051; pounds 24 a night) is the oldest hotel, with balconies overlooking the sea and a pool. The beaches draw a large English contingent, with two bars and a nightclub. Head for Avliotes and the sunsets at Peroulades, or into the hill villages around Troumpeta.

Nissaki

More a region than one site, with at least three different coves, including that dominated by the huge Nissaki Beach Hotel. The first cove, home to a cluster of small tavernas, is the best. Falcon Travel (00 30 663 81423) has rooms and villas here from around pounds 20 a night. Eat here or at the Agni Taverna in the next bay: locals rave about the seafood. Head north for the less accessible coves or up into the foothills of Mount Pantocrator.

Kalami

Durrell's White House is available to rent through CV Travel (tel: 0171- 581 0132). Tassos Athineos, (tel: 00 30 663 91 25 1) owner of the White House, has accommodation in the village, as does Yannis Vlachos (tel: 00 30 663 91 077/91 078/91 094) both from around pounds 20 a night). Eat at the White House, the Kalami beach taverna or Matelia's in the village. Head for Koloura bay's one taverna or further afield to the Eucalyptus taverna at Ayios Stefanos East.

Corfu Town

Renovations for the 1994 European Summit have transformed the medieval heart of Corfu Town, and even inspired new restaurants to open. The Belia Venezia (00 30 662 46500/44290) is the best mid-range hotel (pounds 30 a night) Eat at the Venetian Well, hidden behind the Orthodox Cathedral by the Old Port at least once. Try the newer Faliraki with excellent views of the bay. Explore the Jewish Quarter, British cemetery and Archaeology Museum. Hunt the Doric temples in the newly opened grounds of the Mon Repos estate, take a boat to the Vido islet (from the Old Port) or even one of the day trips to Ayia Saranda in neighbouring Albania. NB: prices quoted are for high season.

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