The Complete Guide to: Connemara

I can't find it on the map: where and what is Connemara?

There are those who will argue about this question all day, because Connemara is neither a province nor a county, has no administrative status and no marked boundaries. The safe answer is that it forms the western portion of County Galway, between the Republic of Ireland's largest lake, Lough Corrib, and the wild Atlantic coast, and includes numerous offshore islands, some of which are inhabited.

Part of the northern boundary is defined by the steep-sided, nine-mile-long Killary Fjord, which would not look out of place in Norway.

Gaelic is spoken throughout much of the broad, brooding peninsula, but Connemara's "capital", Clifden, is picture-postcard pretty and regarded as an "English" sort of town. A set of contradictions, then.

What's the main attraction?

No difficulty with that one: the remarkable diversity of landscapes and weather, and the warmth of the people who live for the most part in straggling, roadside communities rather than formal towns or villages, amid scenery of elemental grandeur.

In an area of land that can be circumnavigated by car in a single day, there are two formidable mountain ranges that change in colour and mood as the clouds hurry through, throwing shifting shadows on their bare slopes.

There are rust-coloured expanses of primeval bogland interspersed by misty, lily-strewn lakes; bleak limestone moonscapes and geometric grids of dry-stone walls; deep-green pastures where the distinctive Connemara ponies graze; sudden pockets of palm trees and improbably giant vegetation nurtured by the Gulf Stream; a mazy, deeply indented coastline of sheltered inlets, sea loughs and some of the finest sandy beaches in the British Isles.

The picture is completed by a bewildering jumble of offshore islands that seem almost to be clinging to the very edge of the world – which is what the ancients thought they were doing.

What about the west of Ireland weather?

You'll soon get used to it. Directly in the North Atlantic's line of fire, Connemara is not green by accident. Some parts receive up to 225 days of rain per year, but it's almost impossible to predict which days they're going to be. The climate is as infinitely variable as the terrain: May can be hot and dry, August chilly and damp but a typical day in Connemara is more likely to provide a bit of everything.

One morning in late June, I drove through the National Park, skirting the line of peaks known as the Twelve Bens, the highest rising to nearly 3,000 feet. The entire range was obscured by steady rain and rolling mist. "Wait an hour or two and the sun will be here," our hotelier had advised, and, by lunchtime, the hills were sharply etched against a sky so intensely blue and clear I might have been in the Bahamas. Naturally, the reverse applies; if it's fine at breakfast-time, seize the opportunity while it lasts.

Whatever conditions you encounter, it's hard to return from Connemara without a healthy, weather-beaten glow.

I want to get active. What are the options?

The hunting, fishing and shooting fraternity regard Connemara extremely fondly, but field sports are only part of the story. There are numerous scenic walks in the hills and along the coast, where the sweeping sands of the Renvyle peninsula and Dogs Bay are perfect for horse riding and pony trekking.

The riding school at the tiny port of Cleggan (00 353 95 44 746; www.clegganriding centre.com) organises three-hour treks along the beach, crossing to Omey Island at low tide. Connemara Trails (00 353 91 841 216; www. connemaratrails.com) offers extended riding tours across the region, taking in all the major sights.

If you prefer Shank's Pony to the local variety, a most rewarding short walk can be made in Connemara National Park (00 353 95 41 006), just outside Letterfrack in the Twelve Bens region. A purpose-built walkway runs for 3.5km to the top of Diamond Hill, from where there are magnificent views of the west coast and the scattering of islands beyond it.

As well as mountain walks, the national park has gentler nature trails through its grassland and woodland, some of them guided. There's an exhibition centre and café at the heart of the complex, which opens 10am-5.30pm throughout the year, closing an hour later in June, July and August. Admission and the guided walks are free.

For more adventurous walkers with an interest in the mysterious antiquities offshore, Connemara Safari (00 353 95 21 071; www.walkingconnemara.com) specialises in island-hopping tours (led by archaeologists) and guided, week-long hikes on the mainland.

Cyclists relish the quiet, twisting roads – as long as the wind isn't blowing too fiercely. Recommended routes include the three loops out of Clifden to the west coast's most attractive villages: Ballyconneely, Cleggan and Roundstone. On the far western tip of the mainland, the Connemara Championship links (00 353 95 23 502; www.connemaragolflinks.com) has a classic seaside layout both revered and feared by golfers, and would surely belong to the international circuit if it wasn't so remote. A round costs between €40-€65 (£33-£54) depending on the time of the year and the day of the week.

Attractions for the odd rainy day?

For a fascinating glimpse of the past, make for the Connemara Heritage and History Centre (00 353 95 21 808; www.connemaraheritage.com) at Lettershea, near Clifden, where audio-visual presentations explain the history and customs of the region, enhanced by a scattering of reconstructed buildings. These include a prehistoric homestead, a wooden ring fort and the humble 19th-century cottage occupied by tenant farmer Dan O'Hara until – as the song about him recounts – he was evicted and emigrated to America, where he wound up selling matches on the streets of New York. The centre u o opens daily from April to October, 9am-6pm; admission €7.50 (£6.25).

Another dwelling of historical importance is Pearse's Cottage, in a gorgeous, lake-strewn setting near Rosmuck on the south coast. Patrick Pearse, a Dubliner, led the ill-fated 1916 Easter Rising against the British, which ended with his capture and execution. He spent months at this thatched, whitewashed house, running a summer school and immersing himself in the Gaelic culture that inspired the resistance movement. The house is open daily from June until mid-September, 10am-6pm, and around Easter from 10am-5pm; admission €1.60 (£1.30).

On the east side of Connemara, near the gateway town of Oughterard on the banks of Lough Corrib, Aughnanure Castle is a finely preserved example of a Galway tower house, of which about 200 were built by aristocratic families for protection against their enemies.

Built around 1500, it was fearsomely protected, with a drawbridge, gun emplacements, watchtowers and platforms from where arrows and stones could be directed at intruders. It costs €2.90 (£2.40) to tour the tower house, which opens 9.30am-6pm from mid-March until the end of October.

On the road between Oughterard and Galway, Brigit's Garden (00 353 91 550 905; www.brigitsgarden.ie) is a charming and magical addition to the tourist trail. Its English-born designer, Jenny Beale, has turned several hectares of park and woodland into an open-air celebration of Celtic mythology and traditions, with all kinds of interesting surprises along the trails, such as sculptures, standing stones and a thatched roundhouse. Make of it what you will, but it's an undeniably lovely place, where imaginative children will lose themselves for hours. The gardens open daily from May to September, 10am-5.30pm, closing at 6pm in July and August. Admission in summer costs €7.50 (£6.25); €5 (£4.20) for children.

Water, water, everywhere: can i take an inland cruise?

Lough Corrib, which separates Connemara from County Mayo, contains much of interest. Fish, for a start: its limestone-rich waters encourage brown trout to grow rapidly, and it attracts anglers from all over the world. Scenically it scores highly, too: most of the islets are densely wooded, and one of the most beautiful – Inchagoill – is a halfway stop for excursion cruisers that shuttle between Oughterard and Cong, on the northern shore. Corrib Cruises (00 353 92 46029; www.corrib cruises.com) runs six round-trips per day. You can visit the island, which has early Christian ruins, and return to Oughterard for €18 £15) or go all the way to Cong and back for €28 (£23).

Further west, cruising the Killary Fjord is the best way of appreciating this extraordinary glacial phenomenon at close quarters, as the mountain on the north side drops almost sheer to the water from upwards of 2,000 feet. Killary Cruises (00 353 91 566 736; www.killarycruises.com), based at the village of Leenane, runs up and down the fjord up to four times a day; the adult fare is €21 (£17.50).

Should I make time for a trip to the Islands?

Definitely. For some, they embody the heart and soul of traditional Ireland.

The best known are the Aran Islands, a group of limestone slabs 20km off the Connemara coast in Galway Bay. At first sight they seem bleak and featureless, but the three inhabited islands are full of historical, cultural and botanical interest, with a distinctive atmosphere that sets them apart from the mainland. Gaelic is widely spoken and sung, and the biggest island, Inishmore, contains one of Europe's most important prehistoric sites – the semi-circular Iron Age fort of Dun Aengus, perched high on its west-facing cliffs. There are numerous early Christian ruins, too.

Accommodation options include the comfortable and lively Aran Islands Hotel at Kilronan (00 353 99 61 104; >www.aranislandshotel.com), where bed and breakfast starts at €130 (£108) and there are frequent live music performances.

While Inishmore has become a magnet for summer day-trippers, the two lesser islands – Inishmaan and Inisheer – have maintained a rustic pace of life, with farming and fishing engaging more of the population than tourism, although they too have ruins, fine walks and sheltered beaches.

The other island worth going out of your way to see is Inishbofin, 10km off the west coast opposite Renvyle Point, and probably the first speck of land spotted by aviators Alcock and Brown on their historic transatlantic flight from Newfoundland in 1919. Inishbofin's scenery is more varied than the Arans, with rugged cliffs, peaceful lakes and a string of white-sand beaches.

There are two colonies of seals, and among the rare birds that breed here is the elusive, endangered corncrake. Inishbofin is also known for its musical traditions, and the tourist amenities are excellent, with three hotels and a range of B&B and self-catering accommodation.

How do I get to the Islands?

The fastest connection to the Aran Islands is by light aircraft from Connemara's regional airport at Inverin. Aer Arann (00 353 91 593 034; www.aerarannislands.ie) runs frequent flights to all three islands, which take less than 10 minutes and cost €45 (£37.50) return regardless of which one you choose.

Two ferry companies sail several times a day from the port of Rossaveal, and one of them – Aran Direct Ferries (00 353 91 566 535; www.arandirect.com) – runs island-hopping excursions as well. The standard crossing takes 35 minutes and costs €25 (£21) return. The fishing village of Cleggan is the departure point for Inishbofin, from where the Island Discovery mail boat makes the half-hour trip at least three times a day, for €20 (£16.50) return. Call 00 353 95 45 819 or visit www.inishbofinislanddiscovery.com for sailing times and bookings.

How do I reach Connemara?

The nearest international airport is at Galway, the regional capital that lies about a dozen miles east of where the Connemara border would be, if it had one. Aer Arann (0870 876 76 76; www.aerarann.com) has regular flights from Bristol, Cardiff, Edinburgh, Luton, Manchester and Newcastle.

Fifty miles north of Galway, the larger airport at Knock (also known as Ireland West) has more UK connections. Ryanair (0871 246 0000; www.ryanair.com) flies from Stansted, Luton, East Midlands and Bristol; bmibaby (0871 224 0224; www.bmi baby.com) from Birmingham, Glasgow and Manchester, and XL.com (0871 911 4220; www.xl.com) from Gatwick.

The bus service from Knock to Galway takes two-and-a-half hours, with a single fare of €12.60 (£10.50).

More information?

Contact Connemara Tourism, Clifden: 00 353 95 22 622; www.connemara.ie.

For more extensive travels: Tourism Ireland's office in London: 0800 039 7000; www.discoverireland.com.

****

Tradition, comfort and a warm Irish welcome

Connemara is noted for its range of traditional, family-run country hotels, often converted from grand country houses or castles, with luxuriant gardens to match. There are several outstanding properties on the west coast, with the emphasis on comfort and friendly, personal service.

Near the village of Cashel on the south-west coast, Cashel House Hotel (00 353 95 31001; www.cashel-house-hotel.com) is a shining example of this. It was built in 1840 by the great-great-grandfather of the present owners, who themselves have been running the place since 1967. Over four decades they have transformed the house and garden, with picture windows in many of the bedrooms providing a great view of the flowers and shrubs, deliberately designed to produce year-round colour.

Secret pathways lead through the woods to higher ground with viewpoints of the coast, one of which is occupied by "De Gaulle's Chair", in memory of the French statesman's two-week stay at Cashel House in 1969, which he managed to keep secret from the chasing pressr.

Doubles start at €95 (£79) per night, rising to €135 (£113) in high season.

Out on the far western Renvyle Peninsula, the Renvyle House Hotel (00 353 95 43511; www.renvyle.com) is another gem of a holiday retreat, miles from anywhere but with enough facilities to keep the most active family occupied for a fortnight. There's a spa and heated outdoor swimming pool, seaside walks, extensive gardens and play areas, a lake for trout fishing, a nine-hole golf course and an award-winning restaurant specialising in Connemara lamb, seafood and locally-caught fish. Bed and breakfast ranges from €€85-120 (£71-100) between April and September, dropping to €55 (£46) out of season. Most guests sensibly negotiate packages that include at least one sumptuous dinner.

For a touch of Irish romance, Ballynahinch Castle (00 353 95 31006; www.ballynahinch-castle.com) is the obvious choice. Lying near the village of Recess in an expansive sporting estate that includes its own salmon river, and overlooked by the picturesque peak of Ben Lettery, this well-restored 18th-century pile has the best of Connemara's scenery on its doorstep, and is also renowned for its food. Standard rooms, which include a full Irish breakfast, start at €€120 (£100), rising to €135 (£112) in summer.

Interesting? Click here to explore further