B&B and Beyond: Can Planells, Ibiza - Forget beats, it's all about tweets

Birds are the soundtrack at the rural estate where the island's famous party scene feels a world away

Greener, quieter and much less developed, northern Ibiza is a world away from the package resorts and epic nightclubs found elsewhere on the island. Here the pace is slower, the vibe more authentic; the tone set by birdsong, not beats. Scattered around this unspoilt hinterland is a number of agroturismos, or rural hotels, that are revitalising the countryside.

Can Planells is one such place. Situated on a sprawling estate owned by the same family for generations, it's been welcoming tourists since 2001, when economics forced the business to diversify. Labour costs were high and competition from cheap imports meant that farming was becoming unviable. Instead, the owner opened his home to guests and Agroturismo Can Planells was born.

Opening at the start of May for the summer season and fresh from a winter refurbishment, Can Planells is a peaceful retreat in the midst of Mediterranean countryside. There are shops and local restaurants in nearby Sant Miquel and a choice of coves and beaches just a little further on.

THE BED

Can Planells occupies a traditional farmhouse, surrounded by fields and orchards. The house - swathed in bougainvillea - fronts on to a landscaped garden, with a swimming pool and sun-trap terrace off to one side. Lazy afternoons here are scented with orange blossom.

There are eight rooms in total: four good-sized doubles in the main house and four larger suites in the adjacent stable block. Each is simply furnished in a traditional, country style of whitewashed walls, exposed wood beams and wrought-iron bedsteads. The four doubles have porches, while the suites come with private, south-facing roof terraces affording distant views to Ibiza Town and the shimmering sea beyond.

A daybed at Nikki Beach club A daybed at Nikki Beach club THE BREAKFAST

The notion of staying on a working farm comes into its own at breakfast. From just-laid eggs and home-made jams to tomatoes, oranges and avocados (plus other seasonal treats, from strawberries to sharon fruits), pretty much everything on the menu is grown at Can Planells. Anything that isn't produced on site, such as bacon, cheese and sobrasada (a Balearic blood sausage) is sourced from local farmers. Home-baked breads and croissants complete the plot-to-plate experience, with everything served on a leafy terrace, or inside the house should the weather demand.

THE HOSTS

As front-of-house, concierge and breakfast waiter, Joan Planells is a busy man. Always dressed in white, he flits effortlessly between Spanish, German and English to converse with guests in their native tongue. His passion, professionalism and endless charm serve the family business well; and it's very much a family affair, with Joan's mum in charge of catering while his father tends to the farm.

THE WEEKEND

Can Planells is designed for relaxing, but there's more to do here than just laze by the pool. A four-strong fleet of mountain bikes is available for guests to borrow. Follow peaceful lanes to Santa Gertrudis for coffee or lunch in the square, then freewheel through a pastoral scenery of ochre soils, deep-green pines, white cube houses and the bluest of skies.

Port de San Miquel Port de San Miquel The nearest beach is at the resort of Port de Sant Miquel (about two miles away), but for something edgier, persevere along the coast road to Cala Benirrás - a glorious cove of vivid waters and pine-topped cliffs. Here you'll find a couple of decent chiringuitos (beach bars) and one of the best sunsets on the island, celebrated on Sundays with rhythmic drumming at the Fiesta de los Tambores.

THE PIT-STOP

Nowhere on the island is much more than a 20-minute drive away. For a change of tempo, head to the new Nikki Beach club in Santa Eulalia (00 34 619 753 710; nikkibeach.com/ibiza), which opens in mid-May after soft-launching last summer. This stylish beach club draws a party crowd on Fridays and Saturdays, but for the rest of the week it's much more mellow, with friendly service and an unpretentious vibe. There's no cover charge; just turn up for the restaurant, or rent a lounger (from €25/£21pp) and make a day of it. The restaurant is very good; expect seafood, sushi and excellent steaks. Enjoy it all with your feet in the sand and a sunshine soundtrack of laid-back beats. An à la carte lunch costs around €60/£50pp with wine.

THE ESSENTIALS

Agroturismo Can Planells, Venda del Rubio 2, Sant Miquel, Ibiza, Spain (00 34 971 334 924; canplanells.com). Doubles start at €150 (£126) per night, including breakfast. Open May -October. James Litston flew to Ibiza with easyJet (0843 104 5000; easyJet.com), which has flights from eight UK airports from £24 one-way.

Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Travel
ebookHow to enjoy the perfect short break in 20 great cities
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
  • Get to the point
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Guru Careers: Front of House Receptionist / Receptionist

    £21K: Guru Careers: We are seeking a Front of House Receptionist to provide th...

    Recruitment Genius: Bid / Tender Writing Executive

    £24000 - £27000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: With offices in Manchester, Lon...

    Guru Careers: Marketing Executives / Marketing Communications Consultants

    Competitive (DOE) + Benefits: Guru Careers: We are seeking a number of Marketi...

    Recruitment Genius: Marketing Executive

    £20000 - £27000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This well established business ...

    Day In a Page

    Revealed: Why Mohammed Emwazi chose the 'safe option' of fighting for Isis, rather than following his friends to al-Shabaab in Somalia

    Why Mohammed Emwazi chose Isis

    His friends were betrayed and killed by al-Shabaab
    'The solution can never be to impassively watch on while desperate people drown'
An open letter to David Cameron: Building fortress Europe has had deadly results

    Open letter to David Cameron

    Building the walls of fortress Europe has had deadly results
    Tory candidates' tweets not as 'spontaneous' as they seem - you don't say!

    You don't say!

    Tory candidates' election tweets not as 'spontaneous' as they appear
    Mubi: Netflix for people who want to stop just watching trash

    So what is Mubi?

    Netflix for people who want to stop just watching trash all the time
    The impossible job: how to follow Kevin Spacey?

    The hardest job in theatre?

    How to follow Kevin Spacey
    Armenian genocide: To continue to deny the truth of this mass human cruelty is close to a criminal lie

    Armenian genocide and the 'good Turks'

    To continue to deny the truth of this mass human cruelty is close to a criminal lie
    Lou Reed: The truth about the singer's upbringing beyond the biographers' and memoirists' myths

    'Lou needed care, but what he got was ECT'

    The truth about the singer's upbringing beyond
    Migrant boat disaster: This human tragedy has been brewing for four years and EU states can't say they were not warned

    This human tragedy has been brewing for years

    EU states can't say they were not warned
    Women's sportswear: From tackling a marathon to a jog in the park, the right kit can help

    Women's sportswear

    From tackling a marathon to a jog in the park, the right kit can help
    Hillary Clinton's outfits will be as important as her policies in her presidential bid

    Clinton's clothes

    Like it or not, her outfits will be as important as her policies
    NHS struggling to monitor the safety and efficacy of its services outsourced to private providers

    Who's monitoring the outsourced NHS services?

    A report finds that private firms are not being properly assessed for their quality of care
    Zac Goldsmith: 'I'll trigger a by-election over Heathrow'

    Zac Goldsmith: 'I'll trigger a by-election over Heathrow'

    The Tory MP said he did not want to stand again unless his party's manifesto ruled out a third runway. But he's doing so. Watch this space
    How do Greek voters feel about Syriza's backtracking on its anti-austerity pledge?

    How do Greeks feel about Syriza?

    Five voters from different backgrounds tell us what they expect from Syriza's charismatic leader Alexis Tsipras
    From Iraq to Libya and Syria: The wars that come back to haunt us

    The wars that come back to haunt us

    David Cameron should not escape blame for his role in conflicts that are still raging, argues Patrick Cockburn
    Sam Baker and Lauren Laverne: Too busy to surf? Head to The Pool

    Too busy to surf? Head to The Pool

    A new website is trying to declutter the internet to help busy women. Holly Williams meets the founders