B&B and Beyond: Poppleton House, York

A new guesthouse in a picture-book village offers a relaxed and indulgent way to visit York

Just on the outskirts of York, Nether Poppleton lives up to its picture-book name: the village is all traditional redbrick cottages, church spires, duck ponds and gnarled orchards. (Now a conservation area, these used to provide the fruit for the nearby Rowntree's factory.) Now, a freshly opened B&B, Poppleton House, provides a haven of country calm in the village – without a hint of chocolate-box chintz.

The bed

There are four rooms, prettily appointed in pale pastels. The largest, the Mulberry Room, has a view of its namesake, a rather fine mulberry tree. It's uncommonly roomy for a B&B, easily accommodating large polished wood wardrobes and dressing tables, and with elegant lemon and powder-blue furnishings, including heavy brocade curtains. Even these, however, cannot keep much warmth in – it's a chilly old Georgian building, so pack a jumper. Or just dive into the glorious sleigh bed; it enfolds you in a deep comforting embrace, with huge, squashy duvets and eiderdowns on top.

The en-suite bathroom is also spacious, with a shower and deep roll-top bath. There are nice touches: mini rubber ducks are ready to bob; towels are thick and soft. Come mid-afternoon, should you get peckish, a cake appears on the landing, and there are snacks and tea-making facilities in the rooms. Poppleton House isn't licensed, but a corkscrew and wine glasses are provided so you can bring your own. (Oddly, there were no water glasses, though.)

The breakfast

There's one long, gleaming wooden table for everyone to sit around, though with a two-hour breakfast window, you may well have it to yourself. On a sideboard are cereals, yoghurts and fruit, as well as delicious compote made from the fruit of that mulberry tree – not to be missed. Warm croissants are also available; the night before, choose meat or vegetarian options for a full English and how you want your eggs cooked.

The host

Kath Doggett has lived at Poppleton House for "12-odd years" and clearly loves it. Her two grown-up sons have now fled the nest, so she decided to turn her home into a B&B, opening its doors in May. It's still home, however, to two very docile and friendly dogs, Tan and Abbey. Down to earth and friendly, Kath will recommend local walks or sights in York.

The weekend

Amble round Nether Poppleton, to a Norman church and restored tithe barn, past a historic orchard and the Millennium Field full of metal bird sculptures. Ask Kath for longer cycle routes starting from the village. (There are bikes to borrow.)

York is the real attraction: it's a 15-minute drive, but the nearby Rawcliffe Bar Park & Ride is a less stressful option. Alternatively, a bus service runs from outside Poppleton House. A taxi costs about £12.

For an overview of York's historic charms, walk around the medieval walls, then visit the Minster (0844 939 0011; yorkminster.org). Gawp at its stunning Gothic grandeur for free, or pay to go inside (£14) or climb the tower (£6). Stroll along the higgledy-piggledy cobbled streets of The Shambles and Stonegate for unabashed quaintness. For families (or geeks), try the National Railway Museum (0844 815 3139; nrm.org.uk; free) and the Jorvik Viking Centre (01904 615505; jorvik-viking-centre.co.uk).

The pit stop

There are pubs in Nether Poppleton, but you'd be advised to head into York. Book in advance for the Blue Bicycle (01904 673990; thebluebicycle.com) or Melton's (01904 634341; meltons restaurant.co.uk) – both offer modern European food using local Yorkshire produce from about £40 a head. The sister of the latter, Melton's Too, offers less formal bistro dining. Similarly, Oscar's (01904 652002; oscarswinebar.com) provides tasty food in convivial surroundings.

For many, no visit to York is complete without a trip to Bettys tearooms (01904 659142; bettys.co.uk). Expect to queue, but its "Fat Rascal" scones, with peel and vine fruits, are worth it.

Legend has it there are 365 pubs in York. True or not, there's no shortage of drinking holes, from thick-beamed traditional inns such as the Black Swan (01904 679131; blackswanyork.com) and Ye Olde Starre Inne (01904 623063; originalpubco.com) to cocktail bars. Evil Eye Lounge (01904 640002; evileyelounge.com) sells a vast and imaginative range, and is about as cool and edgy as the city gets. It does great Thai food, too.

The essentials

Poppleton House, 3 Main Street, Nether Poppleton, York, YO26 6HS (01904 781160; bbyork.co.uk). Doubles start at £80, including breakfast.

The Independent travel offers: Discover a world of inspiring destinations

PROMOTED VIDEO
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Sport
Shinji Kagawa and Reece James celebrate after the latter scores in Manchester United's 7-0 victory over LA Galaxy
football
Voices
voicesGood for Lana Del Rey for helping kill that myth, writes Grace Dent
Sport
Farah returns to the track with something to prove
Commonwealth games
Life and Style
fashion Designs are part of feminist art project by a British student
Arts and Entertainment
The Tour de France peloton rides over a bridge on the Grinton Moor, Yorkshire, earlier this month
film
News
Very tasty: Vladimir Putin dining alone, perhaps sensibly
news
Travel
ebookHow to enjoy the perfect short break in 20 great cities
Arts and Entertainment
Top guns: Cole advised the makers of Second World War film Fury, starring Brad Pitt
filmLt-Col Steven Cole is the man Hollywood calls when it wants to borrow a tank or check a uniform
Life and Style
Listen here: Apple EarPods offer an alternative
techAre custom, 3D printed earbuds the solution?
News
Snoop Dogg pictured at The Hollywood Reporter Nominees' Night in February, 2013
people... says Snoop Dogg
News
The University of California study monitored the reaction of 36 dogs
sciencePets' range of emotions revealed
Arts and Entertainment
A scene from Shakespeare in Love at the Noel Coward Theatre
theatreReview: Shakespeare in Love has moments of sheer stage poetry mixed with effervescent fun
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
Independent
Travel Shop
the manor
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on city breaks Find out more
santorini
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on chic beach resorts Find out more
sardina foodie
Up to 70% off luxury travel
on country retreats Find out more
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    C++ Software Engineer - Hounslow, West London - C++ - to £60K +

    £40000 - £60000 per annum + Pension, Healthcare : Deerfoot IT Resources Limite...

    VB.NET and C# developer (VB.NET,C#,ASP.NET)

    £30000 - £45000 per annum + Bonus+Benefits+Package: Harrington Starr: VB.NET a...

    Visitor Experience volunteer

    Unpaid voluntary role: Old Royal Naval College: To assist the Visitor Experien...

    Telesales Manager. Paddington, London

    £45-£55k OTE £75k : Charter Selection: Major London International Fashion and ...

    Day In a Page

    Screwing your way to the top? Good for Lana Del Rey for helping kill that myth

    Screwing your way to the top?

    Good for Lana Del Rey for helping kill that myth, says Grace Dent
    Will the young Britons fighting in Syria be allowed to return home and resume their lives?

    Will Britons fighting in Syria be able to resume their lives?

    Tony Blair's Terrorism Act 2006 has made it an offence to take part in military action abroad with a "political, ideological, religious or racial motive"
    Beyoncé poses as Rosie the Riveter, the wartime poster girl who became a feminist pin-up

    Beyoncé poses as Rosie the Riveter

    The wartime poster girl became the ultimate American symbol of female empowerment
    The quest to find the perfect pair of earphones: Are custom, 3D printed earbuds the solution?

    The quest to find the perfect pair of earphones

    Earphones don't fit properly, offer mediocre audio quality and can even be painful. So the quest to design the perfect pair is music to Seth Stevenson's ears
    US Army's shooting star: Lt-Col Steven Cole is the man Hollywood calls when it wants to borrow a tank or check a military uniform

    Meet the US Army's shooting star

    Lt-Col Steven Cole is the man Hollywood calls when it wants to borrow a tank or check a military uniform
    Climate change threatens to make the antarctic fur seal extinct

    Take a good look while you can

    How climate change could wipe out this seal
    Should emergency hospital weddings be made easier for the terminally ill?

    Farewell, my lovely

    Should emergency hospital weddings be made easier?
    Man Booker Prize 2014 longlist: Crowdfunded novel nominated for first time

    Crowdfunded novel nominated for Booker Prize

    Paul Kingsnorth's 'The Wake' is in contention for the prestigious award
    Vladimir Putin employs a full-time food taster to ensure his meals aren't poisoned

    Vladimir Putin employs a full-time food taster

    John Walsh salutes those brave souls who have, throughout history, put their knives on the line
    Tour de France effect brings Hollywood blockbusters to Yorkshire

    Tour de France effect brings Hollywood blockbusters to Yorkshire

    A $25m thriller starring Sam Worthington to be made in God's Own Country
    Will The Minerva Project - the first 'elite' American university to be launched in a century - change the face of higher learning?

    Will The Minerva Project change the face of higher learning?

    The university has no lecture halls, no debating societies, no sports teams and no fraternities. Instead, the 33 students who have made the cut at Minerva, will travel the world and change the face of higher learning
    The 10 best pedicure products

    Feet treat: 10 best pedicure products

    Bags packed and all prepped for holidays, but feet in a state? Get them flip-flop-ready with our pick of the items for a DIY treatment
    Commonwealth Games 2014: Great Scots! Planes and pipers welcome in Glasgow's Games

    Commonwealth Games 2014

    Great Scots! Planes and pipers welcome in Glasgow's Games
    Jack Pitt-Brooke: Manchester City and Patrick Vieira make the right stand on racism

    Jack Pitt-Brooke

    Manchester City and Patrick Vieira make the right stand on racism
    How Terry Newton tragedy made iron men seek help to tackle their psychological demons

    How Newton tragedy made iron men seek help to tackle their psychological demons

    Over a hundred rugby league players have contacted clinic to deal with mental challenges of game