Casa Colvale, Colvale: Set amid the drowsy backwaters of the River Chapora, Casa Colvale is the place to while away a holiday in decadent style. Its 12 bedrooms blend contemporary Goan and South-east Asian design to good effect, with billowing hand-woven fabrics and work by local artists. All have private terraces or balconies with views of the river. For those who want to wade into the surf, it's a 20-minute drive or boat ride to the nearest beach. Dinner menus include barbecued freshly caught seafood, and candlelit suppers by the river can also be arranged. Casa Colvale, Taliwado, Chiklim, Colvale, Bardez (00 91 940 533 0547; casacolvale.com). Doubles start at Rs5,600 (£79), full board.