In search of... Frankincense in Oman

What do you get the person who has everything? You can't go wrong with a Christmas shopping list borrowed from the Bible, and Oman, on the southern tip of the Arabian peninsula, is the place to find Boswellia sacra, the frankincense tree.

What do you get the person who has everything? You can't go wrong with a Christmas shopping list borrowed from the Bible, and Oman, on the southern tip of the Arabian peninsula, is the place to find Boswellia sacra, the frankincense tree.

That sounds pretty exotic for a Christmas shopping spot

It is. The traditional home of frankincense is Dhofar, the southernmost region of the sultanate bordering the Arabian Sea. Some 7,000 years ago, caravans would start out from here on their arduous journey west, bearing crystals of the musky perfume that was once more valuable than gold. Scattered among the stony beds of the wadis (dry valleys) and on the southern slopes of the Dhofar Jebel (mountains) are gnarly, weather-beaten trees producing the world's best frankincense.

What makes this region so special?

The unique climate. In summer months, the subcontinental monsoon just reaches the southern coast of Oman, shrouding Dhofar in a misty wet season known as Al Khareef. Between the end of June and the beginning of October, when the rest of the Arabian Gulf is sweltering in temperatures pushing 50C, Dhofar sees gentle rain and an average daily temperature of 25C. Consequently, this region has become something of a refuge for UAE nationals, who come for the novelty of green mountains and tropical coconut groves flourishing beside the frankincense trees.

Where do I stay?

Salalah, the coastal capital of Dhofar, is the prime spot for those on the frankincense trail and perfectly located for exploring the region's beaches, deserts and mountains. Salalah's city museum offers the best insight into the history of frankincense. Artefacts include exquisite old clay incense burners, model dhows (traditional boats once used to transport the perfume to Oman's colonies in Africa and India) and vicious-looking tools for collecting the musky sap. Don't miss the fabulous (permanent) exhibition of yellowing photographs by Wilfred Thesiger, taken during his travels with the Omani bedouin across the Empty Quarter (the Omani desert) in the 1940s. Arabian Sands, his ground-breaking book about the expedition, makes for perfect holiday reading.

So how does it get from the tree to the perfume bottle?

As with rubber harvests, the tree is slit with a special knife, called the mingaf, and left to weep a milky white sap, collected when it has crystallised. The first cut, the tawquii, produces the purest and most valuable resin – much of which is exported for use in perfume and cosmetics. The second and third cuts, made at two-week intervals, produce a yellower resin, and its crystals, resembling unrefined sugar, are sold in the local markets.

Head for the Salalah's jumbled old souks in the centre of town, where gold and myrrh are also abundant, if you want to complete the biblical package. The old Frankincense Souk has the best selection: you can pick up a colourful Dhofari incense burner, some charcoal and half a pound of frankincense crystals for around one Omani rial (£1.60). Simply place the crystals on top of the hot coals and transport yourself to ancient Rome.

Ancient Rome? I thought we were in the Middle East

The Romans were among the greatest consumers of frankincense. Nero was said to have burnt more than one year's production of Arabian frankincense at his wife's funeral. The Egyptians also considered the tree sacred; its sap was used in embalming rites, enabling the gods to sniff out the righteous. Among its many uses in Dhofar, the purest crystals are given as wedding gifts. Fire hazards aside, frankincense or bakur (a blended incense) is placed on a burner under the bride's skirts in order that the dense smoke perfumes her skin and clothes.

So where will the scent lead me?

Along with the camel caravans, thousands of ships exported frankincense from Dhofar to Egypt, Palestine, the Far East and Europe. Khwar Rouri was one of the most important harbours for frankincense exportation in the Middle East. Located 20 minutes east of the city, this abandoned port is today populated by numerous bird species (including pink flamingo) passing schools of dolphin and archaeological groups, drawn to the region in search of its ancient settlements. Vestiges of some of the oldest cities on the Arabian peninsula are still being discovered, buried under Dhofar's sands.

Also not to be missed is Mughsail, 45km west of Salalah, connected to the city by a string of virgin beaches and backed by spectacular mountain scenery and frankincense groves. The hairpin-bend road beyond Mughsail toward the Yemeni border (just over 100km southwest), continues to Shisir, otherwise known as the "Lost City" of Ubar. This buried fortress settlement (discovered by Nasa satellite photos) and ruins of a frankincense storehouse nearby, at Wadi Hansoon, are considered home to the best frankincense in the region. Watch out for road-senseless camels en route.

It all sounds heavenly. Where do I park the sun lounger?

Although fringed by hundreds of kilometres of completely undeveloped coastline, beach life in Oman, as Europeans understand it, is minimal. Oman is a Muslim country and Dhofar one of its most traditional, conservative regions. Modest dress (legs and arms covered) is recommended at all times unless within the enclave of one of the few international hotels.

For a top-notch bronzing spot there is nowhere better the Salalah Hilton Resort (00 968 211234; www.hilton.com). This beachfront oasis is also one of the rare places where you'll be able to sip anything stronger than fruit juice. (Oman is a dry state.) If you can drag yourself away from the smart poolside bar, the hotel offers tours along the frankincense trail, camping trips to the Empty Quarter and excursions to mountain villages. Double rooms cost from £96 per night. Frankincense excursions costs from US$35 (£22).

So where do I pick up the camel train?

Remote as it sounds, much has changed since Thesiger crossed the Empty Quarter. British Airways (0845 773 3377) offers return flights from Heathrow to Muscat from £487. UK nationals may purchase a single-entry visa on arrival in Oman for seven Omani rials (£11), valid for a stay of up to three weeks. Or apply in advance at the Consular Section of the Embassy of the Sultanate of Oman, 167 Queens Gate, London, SW7 5HE (020-7225 0001).

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