The Complete Guide To: The Sinai

Why have I heard of it?

Since Charlton Heston came tumbling down the mount with the Ten Commandments, the Sinai has been a source of fascination for Westerners. True, Cecil B DeMille's Mount Sinai was a studio concoction rather than the real, beautiful 7,500ft thing. But the movie drew attention to the Sinai peninsula, the dusty heartland of Christianity. Think: the burning bush, the golden calf, the dividing of the Red Sea. They all took place on the territory or the shores of the Sinai.

The Ten Commandments was released in 1956, the year of the Suez Crisis and the initial Israeli invasion of the Sinai. Since then, this triangular chunk of land, three times the size of Wales, has passed back and forth between the Egyptians and the Israelis. The peace treaty of 1979 returned the territory to Egypt. Since then, tourism has overtaken war, with the main focus in the southern part of the arrowhead that the Sinai resembles. But, as with other popular locations in Egypt, terrorists have repeatedly targeted visitors.

The hub for tourism (and for the worst attack, in 2005, which killed 89) is Sharm el Sheikh. The equivalent of several billion pounds has been invested over recent years turning it into an all-season refuge for pale, tired Europeans, keen to enjoy some of the promised 350-days-a-year of sunshine.

It was Italian divers in the 1980s who first understood that Sharm was perfectly situated for underwater exploration. The clear blue sea at the point where the Red Sea divides to flow around the Sinai Peninsula is crowded with shipwrecks and has one of the world's liveliest, most colourful – certainly most accessible – population of fish. The water is also reliably warm.

Nowadays, two million visitors a year are flown into Sharm el Sheikh's big and reasonably efficient airport. Besides Brits, plenty of Germans, Russians and French people arrive. Many come to dive, but there are also the pleasures of the beach and the desert. The Sinai is for happy amphibians – and Sharm is the draw for most of them.

Las Vegas in the Middle East?

Yes. The parallel is obvious the minute you land in Sharm el Sheikh. Spreading out beneath you, a sprawling strip of over-sized hotel complexes, a concrete oasis in the desert, punctuated by swimming pools, nightclubs and casinos. And building work suggests that Sharm's tourism, at least, is only going to expand. But the differences are obvious, too. This is, after all, a Muslim country: the alcohol and bars are there for the tourists. The terrorist attacks in 2005 have put paid to the days of massed "desert parties" – essentially raves in the dunes. But in Na'ama Bay, the heart of Sharm's nightlife, clubs such as Pacha (at the Sanafir hotel) and, strangely enough, the Hard Rock Café are packed most nights.

You can avoid the casinos and abundant belly-dancing floor shows, of course: more authentic Egyptian socialising is to be found by sharing a water pipe with friends in the numerous sheesha bars and cafés.

Where should I stay?

In Sharm el Sheikh, choose from the flashiest of five-stars to the more downtown charm of divers' retreats. The Four Seasons Resort (00 20 693 603 555; www.fourseasons.com/ sharmelsheikh) offers 43 acres of lush green lawns, bungalow-style living based on a traditional Arabic village, and will set you back upwards of $400 (£211) a night, including breakfast. Tony Blair was spotted dining at the hotel's Italian restaurant, Il Frantoio, with Cherie and the French President, Nicolas Sarkozy, in January.

For those whose budget does not stretch to that of the former prime minister, Sharm has plenty of other three- and four-star internationally branded complexes to choose from. They generally offer a private beach, pool-upon-pool and excellent cuisine – ranging from good-quality "international" to excellent local and Lebanese-inspired cuisine.

Something a little simpler?

If your main purpose for a Sinai trip is to spend most of your time underwater, you could do worse than go for one of Sharm's divers' retreats. At the Sharks Bay Umbi Diving village (00 20 69 360 0942; www.sharksbay.com), you can choose from Bedouin-style rooms, wooden beach cabins and basic bamboo huts perched on the cliff top with spectacular views of Tiran Island. Doubles range from €15 (£11.50) per night for a simple hut to €40 (£31) for sea-view rooms, including breakfast.

For a holiday that is even more on the hippie side, head about 50 miles north-east along the coast to the more laid-back Dahab, a once isolated coastal village that is now more renowned for its backpackers than its Bedouin. The town has made a name for itself as the Koh Samui of the Middle East, offering cheap beachside accommodation, and even cheaper food and drink.

With several professional diving centres to choose from, such as Poseidon Divers (00 20 69 364 0091; www.poseidondivers.com) and Nesima Dive Centre (00 20 69 364 0320; www.nesima-resort.com), it is an ideal alternative to Sharm el Sheikh. A one-day PADI Discover Scuba Diving course at Poseidon costs €70 (£54).

How do I meet the locals?

The Sinai was once written off as "24,000 square miles of nothing". The only genuine natives are the Bedouin, tribes of wandering desert people. Although their numbers in the desert are decreasing as the "comforts" of modern life tempt them away from their traditional nomadic ways, in certain spots you can still glimpse their caravans as they move slowly from oasis to oasis.

The best way to get to know the lifestyle of the Bedouin is to take an organised trip into the desert. Some safaris on offer last up to two weeks. Travelling by camel or 4x4 (or both), you'll take in Bedouin camps, and be welcomed with their sweet tea, coffee spiced with cardamom and freshly baked flat bread. Some trips may even include a Bedouin wedding, an amazing night-time ceremony.

A slightly shorter option is offered by the ethical tour operator Baobab Travel (0121 314 6011; www.baobabtravel.com). Its eight-day camping safari costs from £515 per person, including transport, accommodation with most meals and entrance fees; international travel to Sharm el Sheikh is not included. u o Any adrenalin?

Quad biking is hugely popular with petrolhead visitors, though of course it has a negative effect in terms of everything from noise to damaging sensitive desert areas. Nevertheless, Sharm el Sheikh has several operators, and safaris of these four-wheeled bikes racing across the desert are a common sight around the resort. A typical price is £18 for a two-hour tour. Previous experience is advisable but not essential. In addition, various operators offer 4x4 safaris across the desert dunes.

Horse-riding is an altogether more peaceful and sensitive alternative, with several stables to choose from across the region. The Sofitel Equestrian Centre at Sharm el Sheikh (00 20 69 364 0500; www.sofitel.com) offers beginners' sessions on the beach for €25 (£19) per person.

The mountains and rocks of the Sinai also offer world-class climbing. In Wadi Gnai, about 20 minutes' drive from Dahab, the granite rocks provide an excellent spot to climb or learn to "boulder" – short rock climbs without ropes (but with crash pads). Desert Divers (00 20 69 364 0500; www.desert-divers.com) offers one-day or overnight courses out of Dahab costing between €45 (£35) and €90 (£69) full board, and including equipment hire (which is also suitable for children). The centre also runs courses for complete beginners.

Any other historical highlights?

Cairo is a 50-minute plane ride away from Sharm el Sheikh, and is featured as an overnight excursion by many tour operators to the resort. However, on a relatively short trip it would be a shame not to investigate some of the highlights closer to hand. Much more accessible is the ancient St Catherine's Monastery (www.sinaimonastery.com). Approached through a narrow pass at the foot of Mount Sinai, the monastery looks more like a fortress than a place of worship: it has thick, forbidding granite walls. Until the 20th century, the only way you could get in was through a narrow window, 30ft high, pulleyed up by the monks. That is how one of the world's oldest functioning Christian monasteries – it was built on the orders of the Emperor Justinian in the sixth century – survived numerous attacks.

St Catherine's used to be run by the Russian Orthodox Church, and is now the home of Greek Orthodox monks. They protect what they believe to be Moses' original burning bush, a plant that is still flourishing. Once inside, the monastery is an oasis. It has a remarkable collection of ancient icons and the best collection of illuminated manuscripts (some 4,000) outside the Vatican. There is a mosque in the grounds that was built to honour the fact that the prophet Muhammad once sheltered from enemies there. Open 9am-noon, closed Fridays, Sundays and feast days.

When should I go?

The Sinai's popularity has grown thanks to its winter warmth without the long-haul flight required for destinations such as the Caribbean or Indian Ocean islands. Certainly, with temperatures in Sinai getting up to 45C-50C during the summer, it is more pleasant to go in spring, autumn and later in the winter. March, April and May are still the busiest times for visitors, and February half-term is increasingly popular with families. It can get very windy on the coast, and on winter nights, forget about wearing a skimpy frock. You might be wearing a bikini in the day, but once the sun disappears it's too chilly to eat outside without a jacket.

How do I get there?

Flying to the Sinai takes four to five hours from the UK, and most flights are direct. Several operators fly to Sharm el Sheikh International airport, with Thomsonfly (0870 190 0737; www.thomsonfly.com) and First Choice (0870 850 3999; www. firstchoice.co.uk), for example, flying from several UK destinations. From 1 April, easyJet (0905 821 0905; www.easyJet.com) will start flights from Gatwick to Sharm el Sheikh.

Do I need a visa?

On arrival, most travellers buy the necessary stamps ($15/£8) for a 30-day Egyptian visa. But for travellers arriving at Sharm el Sheikh who don't intend to venture further than the south Sinai resorts, a free 14-day visa can be obtained on arrival. UK visitors coming into Egypt for a short stay must register with the Office of Foreigners and Nationality within seven days of arrival; hotels will usually take care of this for guests. For more information, contact the Egyptian Embassy in London (020-7235 9719; egypt.embassy.uk.com). Your passport must be valid for at least six months from the date when you enter Egypt. You should carry your passport wherever you go in the Sinai. While inoculations are not officially required for Egypt, vaccinations against hepatitis A, tetanus and typhoid are recommended.

How bad is the terrorist threat?

On 23 July 2005, three terrorist bombs ripped through prime tourist locations, killing over 89 people. Since then, things have been far more closely guarded. The area outside Na'ama Bay's Old Market bazaar, where the first car bomb exploded, has now been pedestrianised.

Guarding the hotel compounds – the targets of the other two bombs – was a more difficult task. Most now have sentry boxes where guards hold a mirror underneath vehicles to check for explosives. Some properties have even deployed airport-style luggage X-rays. Most four- and five-star hotels have CCTV networks and a security advisor.

The bomb attacks were blamed on a Wahhabi organisation, supposedly backed by Bedouin. The first response of the Egyptian security was to round up hundreds of local Bedouin and interrogate them. There is still bad blood between them and the police. Dividing the Sharm resort from the desert there is a checkpoint manned by sleepy uniformed police and more menacing plain-clothed cops clutching Heckler & Kochs. A harmless trip to a Bedouin village has a handful of policemen tagging along.

How much of the security is for show, how much for real is a moot point. Hotel employees are vetted and must live in specially constructed condos or dormitories where Egyptian security agents keep an eye on them. It sounds heavy-handed but most tourists barely notice the prowling police.

The only time the police fully show their hand is when President Hosni Mubarak is staying at his Sharm residence. Then policemen with walkie-talkies are stationed every 100 metres along the airport road waiting for the head of state to flash by. That's when you feel really safe.

Where can I find out more?

The Egyptian government tourist site (www.egypt.travel) offers advice on everything from accommodation to forthcoming events and how to find a good wildlife guide. Both the Rough Guide and Lonely Planet books on Egypt have excellent up-to-date chapters covering the Sinai. Independent tour operators can be found in abundance online, and most reputable diving schools in the area also have an online presence.

SUNRISE ON THE MOUNT

About two hours in to the promised overnight excursion to climb Mount Sinai, I was feeling distinctly unimpressed. I was sitting in a café attached to a petrol station on the edge of Sharm el Sheikh. I had been picked up from my hotel at 10.30pm by a minibus containing a crowd of mainly Russian visitors, who had also signed up for the $30 (£16) trip. But after driving around to pick up more climbers, we had parked up and sat sipping tea and wondering what would happen next.

Evidently, this was a time-wasting tactic to resolve a late-evening pickup without leaving people at the top of a 7,500ft mountain for too long.

By 1am, we were on the road again, taking our place in line of vehicles heading for the Mount Sinai base station – a scruffy car park with a café attached. The work began at around 3am, with what amounted to a three-hour trudge up a track that crunched underfoot like a gravel path. "Trudge" might sound like a dreary exercise, but almost every night in the Sinai is clear, with consequent views of the Universe to lift the spirits.

It was hardly a trek of biblical proportions, but the air thinned sufficiently to justify a certain amount of panting. As a false dawn began to infiltrate the sky to the east, we took our places amid the cast of hundreds who had had the same bright idea to witness sunrise at Commandment Peak, as we had nicknamed it on the way up.

Never mind the crowds, never mind the weariness, never mind the implausibility of the Old Testament: when the sun rose out of the Red Sea and ignited the sky and the raw red rock, even the most obstinate atheist would have to admit a certain admiration for the way that nature and the human spirit can merge so spectacularly.

Simon Calder

WRECKS AND REEFS

The clear waters and vibrant coral reefs of the Red Sea burst with Technicolor fish of every shape and size, making it an outstanding area in which to snorkel and dive. Many diving centres are linked to hotels and here you can hire kit, from wetsuits to snorkel masks and fins. All skill levels are catered for, from taster sessions, to PADI-accredited learn-to-dive courses and more advanced open water courses. Children under 12 can have a go with special "bubblemaker" courses.

If you're a seasoned diver, there are dozens of off-boat trips on offer: the Red Sea is crowded with wrecks to explore, and a one-day trip to dive the Second World War ship, the SS Thistlegorm, is not to be missed. Some operators offer "live-aboard" trips: you stay on board a boat that takes you to a different dive spot each day. The Ras Mohammed national park – about half an hour from Sharm el Sheikh, and at the southernmost tip of the Sinai – is known for its richly inhabited reefs and thus a favourite for snorkelling and diving. The 250ft-deep Blue Hole, about 10 miles north of Dahab, is infamous for claiming the lives of several experienced divers due to nitrogen narcosis. As a rule, it should not be attempted, although diving around it is safe.

A better way to get off the beaten diving track is "camel diving": trekking through the rugged landscape on camels to reach isolated diving spots. Several operators run these safaris. Desert Divers (00 20 69 364 0500; www.desert-divers.com) runs two-five day camel diving safaris out of Dahab. Camel treks take place along the Aqaba coastline, hospitality is Bedouin-style, sleeping in beach huts under the stars, and you do a couple of different dives each day.

Sinai also lures "freedivers", who practise an advanced form of snorkelling where they dive to depths of 60ft or more on just one breath.

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