48 Hours In Waterside Paris

There's plenty for water babies to do in the city of romance, from trips along the Seine to lazing on the beach, says Rhiannon Batten



You can't avoid getting wet in Paris. This is a city that boasts steamy hammams, parks that cascade with gushing fountains and, in summer, even a beach. You don't have to go far to enjoy Paris's Age of Aquarius: many of the city's best sights lie on or near the banks of the Seine (or can be viewed from a boat, directly on it).


Paris has two main airports: Orly, which is 16km to the south, and Charles de Gaulle, 27km to the north. Most flights from British airports land in Charles de Gaulle, which is served by British Airways (0870 850 9850, www.ba.com), FlyBE (0871 700 0123, www.flybe.com) and Air France (0845 0845 111, www.airfrance.co.uk). In addition, easyJet (0870 600 0000, www.easyjet.com) operates services from Liverpool, Newcastle and Luton; bmibaby (0870 264 2229, www.bmibaby.com) from Nottingham and Cardiff; and BMI (0870 607 0555, www.flybmi.com) from Leeds Bradford and London Heathrow.

From Orly, there are regular Air France shuttle buses to Invalides métro station (€12.75, or £9, return) and from Charles de Gaulle to the Arc de Triomphe (€17, or £12, return) or Montparnasse (€19.55, or £14, return). Or there are RATP shuttles from Charles de Gaulle to Opéra (€16.40, or £12, return), from Orly to the nearby train station (€14, or £10, return) and from Orly to Montparnasse (€11.40, or £8, return). The other option is Eurostar (0870 518 6186; www.eurostar.com), which offers services from Waterloo to the Gare du Nord in just under three hours (from about £90 return).


Use the Seine as your guide. The central section runs from the Eiffel Tower in the west to the new national library in the east, with the Ile de la Cité just about in the middle. Traditionally, the north of the river has been home to Paris's more stately attractions, with the Arc de Triomphe, Champs Elysées and the Louvre, while the Left Bank, to the south, boasts the more bohemian Latin Quarter. For more information, visit the tourist offices in either the Louvre (open daily, 10am-7pm) or the Eiffel Tower (open daily during May-September, 11am-6.40pm) or call for information (00 33 8 92 68 31 13; www.paris-touristoffice.com). You can pick up free maps of Paris, useful restaurant guides and, if you plan to do a lot of sightseeing, museum and monument passes. These start at €18 (£13) for a one-day adult pass; most museums are free for under-18s.


Water babies with plenty of cash should book into the Four Seasons Hotel George V at 31 Avenue George V (00 33 1 49 52 70 00; www.fourseasons.com). Not only is it one of the most luxurious hotels in Paris, it also has one of the city's best spas, with a swimming pool, steam rooms and a list of spa treatments that includes a tequila massage. Doubles cost from €680 (£486) per night, excluding breakfast. Or rent a houseboat moored near the Eiffel Tower ( www.quai48parisvacation.com). This costs €1,820 (£1,270) for two people for a week. For more affordable options, contact the tourist office or visit www.expedia.co.uk. I recently booked a double room at the Star Hotel Etoile, next to the Arc de Triomphe, for £68.


Get closer to the water with Bateaux Parisiens' one-hour Seine cruises, starting from the Eiffel Tower every hour from 10am-11pm, costing €9.50 (£7) for adults and €4.50 (£3) for children (00 33 1 44 11 33 44; www.bateauxparisiens.com). Vedettes Pont-Neuf runs trips from the famous bridge at similar prices (00 33 1 46 33 98 38, www.pontneuf.net). For a more unusual ride, book a two-hour boat trip up the pretty Canal St Martin. These run at 9.45am and 2.30pm, leaving from the Port de l'Arsenal, and cost €14 (£10) for adults and €8 (£5.50) for children (00 33 1 42 39 15 00, www.canauxrama.com). In the summer, Batobus also runs a hop-on, hop-off water-bus service between the Eiffel Tower and the Ile Saint-Louis, which costs €11 (£8) for a one-day pass (00 33 1 44 11 33 99, www.batobus.com).


From La Grande Arche at 1, Parvis de la Défense you get a panoramic view of the city. A ride up to the top costs €7.50 for adults (£5) and €6 (£4) for children and it's open from 10am-7pm daily (00 33 1 49 07 27 27, www.paris.org).


Along the Promenade Plantée, two-and-a-half miles of old railway viaduct that's been converted into raised parkland running down towards the Seine. The start is best approached from Avenue Daumesnil, near the Bastille métro.


Sweat it out in the Paris mosque's hammam, and then have something to eat in the Moroccan-style tea room in the foyer. €58 (£40) will buy you an all-in deal, including use of the hammam, a massage, a plate of couscous or a tagine, a slice of sticky baklava and a glass or two of mint tea. Entry on its own costs €15 (£10). The mosque is at 39 rue Geoffroy-St-Hilaire and is open to women on Mondays, Wednesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays from 10am-9pm and on Fridays from 2-9pm. For men, it's open on Tuesdays from 2-9pm and on Sundays from 10am-9pm (00 33 1 43 31 38 20).


L'Artisan Parfumeur at 24 boulevard Raspail (00 33 1 42 22 23 32, www.artisanparfumeur.com) is the place for sleek glass bottles of perfume. For more old-fashioned scents - and prices - make your way to Guerlain at 68 Avenue des Champs Elysées (00 33 1 45 62 52 57, www.guerlain.com).


The Musée National du Moyen Age sits on the site of an old Roman bathhouse at 6 place Paul-Painlev (00 33 1 53 73 78 00, www.musee-moyenage.fr), and houses the exquisite 15th-century The Lady and the Unicorn hangings. The museum is open daily, except on Tuesdays, from 9.15am-5.45pm and entrance costs €5.50 (£3.80) for adults (it's free for under-18s). For a completely different, and smellier, take on Paris, try a tour of the city's sewers, " les egouts". The entrance is opposite 93 Quai d'Orsay, just to the east of the Pont de l'Alma, and it's open daily except Thursdays and Fridays from 11am-5pm (00 33 1 53 68 27 81). Entrance costs €3.80 (£2.60) for adults and €3.05 (£2) for under-12s.


There may be water everywhere in this city, but if you want a drop to drink, head to Batofar, an old lighthouse ship that's been transformed into a funky bar and club. It's on Quai Francois-Mauriac, in front of the national library, and is open nightly except Mondays (00 33 1 56 29 10 33, www.batofar.net). For a more upmarket - and sanitised - version of the floating bar-cum-restaurant, cross over to the opposite bank and book a dinner cruise from the Marina de Bercy (00 33 1 43 43 40 30). These start at €59 (£42) for adults and €39 (£27) for children. Or, if that sounds a bit tame, head to Les Bains, Paris's most stylish nightclub, at 7 rue Bourg-l'Abbé (00 33 1 48 87 01 80).


L'Encrier, near the Bastille at 55 rue Traversière (00 33 1 44 68 08 16), is a cosy neighbourhood restaurant offering rabbit casserole or roast lamb from about €12-€15 (£8-£10), as well as good value set menus from €15. It's open for dinner from 7.15-11pm daily except Sundays and, with its exposed brick-and-stone walls, tiled floors and Van Gogh-style chairs, you get atmosphere as well as substance. Closer to the water, Les Pieds dans L'Eau is a characterful place in a quiet corner of the city at 39 Boulevard du Parc on the Ile de la Jatte (00 33 1 47 47 64 07). It's open for dinner on Saturdays, but closed on Sundays. Another good option is Relais de l'Entrecote at 15 Rue Marbeuf (00 33 1 49 52 07 17). For about €21 (£15) a head you can eat as much as you like of the evening's set meal.


Notre-Dame is the obvious choice; it's a majestic part of the city's skyline and is almost on the water. It's open from 8am-7pm daily, but there's an international service at 11.30am on Sundays.


The funky Café la Jatte on leafy Ile de la Jatte is an airy restaurant in an old brick building at 60 Boulevard Vital Bouhot. It's five minutes' walk from the Pont de Levallois métro, and does a popular Sunday brunch for €25/£18 (00 33 1 47 45 04 20).


The Parc André-Citroën was built on the site of an old car factory 10 years ago and is a successful horticultural mêlée of geometric walkways, rustling bamboo hedges and computerised fountains. It's open daily and entrance is free. To get there, take the métro to Javel and walk south along the Quai Citroën.


Buy a panoramic picture of the Pont Neuf straddling the Seine from one of the shops on the Ile de la Cité and, when you've walked round the island to see it from all angles, come back to a bench on the famous bridge and write your impressions.


If you like your water frozen and served in a cone, a €1.80 (£1.20) scoop of fig, blood-orange or prune-and-armagnac ice cream from Paris's most famous parlour, Berthillo, will be hard to top. It's at 31 Rue Saint Louis on the Ile Saint Louis (00 33 1 43 54 31 61).

Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
ebookHow to enjoy the perfect short break in 20 great cities
Life and Style
techPatent specifies 'anthropomorphic device' to control media devices
The PM proposed 'commonsense restrictions' on migrant benefits
voicesAndrew Grice: Prime Minister can talk 'one nation Conservatism' but putting it into action will be tougher
Ireland will not find out whether gay couples have won the right to marry until Saturday afternoon
Kim Jong-un's brother Kim Jong-chol
Manchester city skyline as seen from Oldham above the streets of terraced houses in North West England on 7 April 2015.
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Guru Careers: Events Coordinator / Junior Events Planner

    £24K + Excellent Benefits: Guru Careers: We are seeking an Events Coordinator ...

    Royal Yachting Association Cymru Wales: Chief Executive Officer

    Salary 42,000: Royal Yachting Association Cymru Wales: The CEO is responsible ...

    Guru Careers: Marketing Manager / Marketing Communications Manager

    £35-40k (DOE) + Benefits: Guru Careers: We are seeking a Marketing Communicati...

    Ashdown Group: Technical IT Manager - North London - Growing business

    £40000 - £50000 per annum: Ashdown Group: A growing business that has been ope...

    Day In a Page

    Sun, sex and an anthropological study: One British academic's summer of hell in Magaluf

    Sun, sex and an anthropological study

    One academic’s summer of hell in Magaluf
    From Shakespeare to Rising Damp... to Vicious

    Frances de la Tour's 50-year triumph

    'Rising Damp' brought De la Tour such recognition that she could be forgiven if she'd never been able to move on. But at 70, she continues to flourish - and to beguile
    'That Whitsun, I was late getting away...'

    Ian McMillan on the Whitsun Weddings

    This weekend is Whitsun, and while the festival may no longer resonate, Larkin's best-loved poem, lives on - along with the train journey at the heart of it
    Kathryn Williams explores the works and influences of Sylvia Plath in a new light

    Songs from the bell jar

    Kathryn Williams explores the works and influences of Sylvia Plath
    How one man's day in high heels showed him that Cannes must change its 'no flats' policy

    One man's day in high heels

    ...showed him that Cannes must change its 'flats' policy
    Is a quiet crusade to reform executive pay bearing fruit?

    Is a quiet crusade to reform executive pay bearing fruit?

    Dominic Rossi of Fidelity says his pressure on business to control rewards is working. But why aren’t other fund managers helping?
    The King David Hotel gives precious work to Palestinians - unless peace talks are on

    King David Hotel: Palestinians not included

    The King David is special to Jerusalem. Nick Kochan checked in and discovered it has some special arrangements, too
    More people moving from Australia to New Zealand than in the other direction for first time in 24 years

    End of the Aussie brain drain

    More people moving from Australia to New Zealand than in the other direction for first time in 24 years
    Meditation is touted as a cure for mental instability but can it actually be bad for you?

    Can meditation be bad for you?

    Researching a mass murder, Dr Miguel Farias discovered that, far from bringing inner peace, meditation can leave devotees in pieces
    Eurovision 2015: Australians will be cheering on their first-ever entrant this Saturday

    Australia's first-ever Eurovision entrant

    Australia, a nation of kitsch-worshippers, has always loved the Eurovision Song Contest. Maggie Alderson says it'll fit in fine
    Letterman's final Late Show: Laughter, but no tears, as David takes his bow after 33 years

    Laughter, but no tears, as Letterman takes his bow after 33 years

    Veteran talkshow host steps down to plaudits from four presidents
    Ivor Novello Awards 2015: Hozier wins with anti-Catholic song 'Take Me To Church' as John Whittingdale leads praise for Black Sabbath

    Hozier's 'blasphemous' song takes Novello award

    Singer joins Ed Sheeran and Clean Bandit in celebration of the best in British and Irish music
    Tequila gold rush: The spirit has gone from a cheap shot to a multi-billion pound product

    Join the tequila gold rush

    The spirit has gone from a cheap shot to a multi-billion pound product
    12 best statement wallpapers

    12 best statement wallpapers

    Make an impact and transform a room with a conversation-starting pattern
    Paul Scholes column: Does David De Gea really want to leave Manchester United to fight it out for the No 1 spot at Real Madrid?

    Paul Scholes column

    Does David De Gea really want to leave Manchester United to fight it out for the No 1 spot at Real Madrid?