Byron is awed by an Alpine torrent and amused by an English faux-pas

In April 1816, Byron left London pursued by scandal and debt.

In April 1816, Byron left London pursued by scandal and debt. His marriage to Annabella Milbanke had been a disaster, and the couple were now estranged. After a journey through the Low Countries, Byron arrived at Lake Geneva. Here he met Shelley, with whom he spent much time over the following months. He also explored the Bernese Oberland with his great friend from Cambridge, John Cam Hobhouse, and it is this journey that these extracts from his journal describe.

Clarens, 18 September 1816

Yesterday I set out with H. on an excursion of some days to the Mountains. I shall keep a short journal of each day's progress for my Sister Augusta. [Today we] arrived at Clarens, beautiful Clarens! Went to Chillon through Scenery worthy of I know not whom; went over the Castle of Chillon again. On our return met an English party in a carriage; a lady in it fast asleep! – fast asleep in the most anti-narcotic spot in the world – excellent! I remember, at Chamounix, in the very eyes of Mont Blanc, hearing another woman, English also, exclaim to her party: "Did you ever see anything more rural?" as if it was Highgate, or Hampstead, or Brompton, or Hayes. "Rural!" quotha! Rocks, pines, torrents, Glaciers, Clouds and Summits of eternal snow far above them – and "Rural!"

19 September

Rose at five: ordered the carriage round. Crossed the mountains to Montbovon on horseback and, by dint of scrambling,on foot also; the whole route beautiful as a Dream and now to me almost as indistinct. I am so tired; for though healthy, I have not the strength I had a few years ago.

At Mon Davant we breakfasted; afterwards, on a steep ascent, dismounted, tumbled down, and cut a finger open; the baggage also got loose and fell down a ravine, till stopped by a large tree: swore; recovered baggage: horse tired and dropping; mounted again with H. and all the party. Arrived at a lake in the very nipple of the bosom of the Mountain; left our quadrupeds with a Shepherd and ascended further; came to some snow in patches, upon which my forehead's perspiration fell like rain, making the same dints as in a sieve: the chill of the wind and the snow turned me giddy, but I scrambled on and upwards. H. went to the highest pinnacle; I did not, but paused within a few yards. In coming down, the Guide tumbled three times; I fell a-laughing and tumbled too – the descent luckily soft, though steep.

The whole of the Mountain superb. A Shepherd on a very steep and high cliff playing upon his pipe; very different from Arcadia (where I saw the pastors with a long Musquet [musket] instead of a Crook, and pistols in their Girdles). Our Swiss Shepherd's pipe was sweet, and his tune agreeable. The view from the highest points of today's journey comprised on one side the greatest part of Lake Leman; on the other, the valleys and mountains of the Canton of Fribourg, and an immense plain, with the Lakes of Neuchatel and Morat; we had both sides of the Jura before us in one point of view, with Alps in plenty.

22 September

Left Thoun in a boat, which carried us the length of the lake in three hours. Landed at Interlaken, entered upon a range of scenes beyond all description or previous conception. Passed a rock; inscription – 2 brothers – one murdered the other; just the place for it. After a variety of windings came to an enormous rock. Girl with fruit – very pretty; blue eyes, good teeth, very fair: long but good features. Bought some of her pears and patted her upon the cheek.

Arrived at the foot of the Mountain (the Jungfrau, ie, the Maiden); Glaciers; torrents; one of these torrents nine hundred feet in height of visible descent. Lodge at the Curate's. Set out to see the Valley; heard an Avalanche fall, like thunder; saw Glacier – enormous. Storm came on, thunder, lightning, hail; all in perfection, and beautiful. I was on horseback; Guide wanted to carry my cane; I was going to give it to him, when I recollected that it was a Swordstick, and I though the lightning might be attracted towards him; kept it myself; a good deal encumbered with it, and my cloak, as it was too heavy for a whip, and the horse was stupid, and stood still with every other peal.

Swiss Curate's house very good indeed – much better than most English Vicarages. It is immediately opposite the torrent I spoke of. The torrent is in shape curving over the rock, like the tail of a white horse streaming in the wind, such as it might be conceived would be that of the "pale horse" on which Death is mounted in the Apocalypse. It is neither mist nor water, but a something between both; its immense height gives it a wave, a curve, a spreading here, a condensation there, wonderful and indescribable.

I think, upon the whole, that this day has been better than any of this present excursion.

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