Does Cyprus know where to draw the line?

The recent election of a president on a unification ticket could herald a new era of tourism for the island, says Sarah Barrell

Since travel restrictions were eased in 2003, it has been possible to travel across the Green Line that slices Cyprus in two. A hop across this notorious border now involves no more than a stamp on a piece of paper, an act unimaginable for an entire generation of Cypriots who have lived in this divided society since 1974, when Turkey invaded the north in response to a Greek-backed military coup.

Yet, while crossing is easy, onward travel still has its practical problems. Will this all become easier following the election of Demetris Christofias as the President of Greek Cyprus on a ticket of ending the division?

International air authorities don't recognise Northern Cyprus's airport, so you can't fly direct, only via Turkey. Land crossing is the usual approach from Greek Cyprus into the Turkish north, but try this with a car and you run into insurance issues. Neither region recognises each other's car insurance.

I park my southern hire car in one of the long-stay lots that have sprung up like weeds along Nicosia's uniquely shaped Venetian walls since 2003. I pass on foot into the northern half of the capital, past neatly refurbished hammams and smart restaurants that are a sign of hopeful regeneration in the capital, to hire another, this time in Turkish lira.

Euros have been widely accepted in Greek Cyprus since January, when the state joined the euro following entry into the EU in 2004. This move has fuelled Turkey's EU aspirations: its membership is reliant on the island's reunified future among other factors. Certainly, on paper reunification looks more likely than ever, but images of the memorials to the conflict's dead erected around the border are a sharp reminder of how divisions still run deep. Kofi Annan's recent reunification plan was rejected by 76 per cent of Greek Cypriots and endorsed by 65 per cent of Turkish Cypriots.

But with the election of Christofias, Cyprus has become one of tourism's notable "watch this space" issues. Ending the division was the main campaign theme. South of the border, tourism is well established, while on the north side there is comparatively nothing. You are more likely to see a wild donkey on the beach than a deckchair.

But prospectors are quick to see that nothing as a big fat something. My drive through the hinterland reveals empty expanses of land partially tiled for farming, dotted with scant villages and modest white mosques. Closer to the coast, improbable-looking signs pop up in the dust advertising luxury villas and holiday villages – many of them British-run companies. Cyprus's British expat community has its historical roots in the island as a British territory and military post. Today, in the north at least, it's more associated with ex-cons. Many of these new developments are attributed anecdotally to these characters. However, Turkish authorities are handing over more of these less savoury British residents for extradition.

One wonders how they'd ever find them. Follow a Greek Cypriot road map in Turkish territory, or visa versa, and expect to be confounded by not only different names (in English, Greek and Turkish) but also conflicting road numbers. Add to this a number of new highways and service roads for new developments that don't show up on maps at all. Out towards the east coast things get easier as there is only one road, which comes to a sandy end halfway along the Karpas peninsula, a place with no electricity but plenty of rare turtles, plus a few huts-on-stilts beach accommodation that wouldn't look out of place in Thailand. While partition has bought economic obscurity to the north, it's this lack of attention that is protecting its wild landscapes.

Along the coast towards the tourist hub of Kyrenia, the north's rugged, deserted coastline becomes crowded with skeletal holiday villages that are quickly fleshing out. Kyrenia's old town, with the understated elegance of its Italianate harbour, is a rare find in Cyprus. The ownership of the hotels and bars here may be a sticky issue (the Greek Cyprus tourist office considers them "squatted"), but it's places such as Kyrenia, the wild Karpas peninsula and Cyprus's capital that will, on reunification, attract tourists after more than a bucket-and-space beach break.

Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Travel
ebookHow to enjoy the perfect short break in 20 great cities
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Recruitment Genius: Web Developer - Junior / Mid Weight

    £15000 - £25000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: To support their continued grow...

    Recruitment Genius: Transportation Contracting Manager

    £33000 - £38000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: A global player and world leade...

    Recruitment Genius: Hotel and Spa Duty Manager

    £18000 - £24000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: If you are friendly, sociable, ...

    Recruitment Genius: Payroll and Benefits Co-ordinator

    £22300 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This museum group is looking for a Payro...

    Day In a Page

    Is this the future of flying: battery-powered planes made of plastic, and without flight decks?

    Is this the future of flying?

    Battery-powered planes made of plastic, and without flight decks
    Isis are barbarians – but the Caliphate is a dream at the heart of all Muslim traditions

    Isis are barbarians

    but the Caliphate is an ancient Muslim ideal
    The Brink's-Mat curse strikes again: three tons of stolen gold that brought only grief

    Curse of Brink's Mat strikes again

    Death of John 'Goldfinger' Palmer the latest killing related to 1983 heist
    Greece debt crisis: 'The ministers talk to us about miracles' – why Greeks are cynical ahead of the bailout referendum

    'The ministers talk to us about miracles'

    Why Greeks are cynical ahead of the bailout referendum
    Call of the wild: How science is learning to decode the way animals communicate

    Call of the wild

    How science is learning to decode the way animals communicate
    Greece debt crisis: What happened to democracy when it’s a case of 'Vote Yes or else'?

    'The economic collapse has happened. What is at risk now is democracy...'

    If it doesn’t work in Europe, how is it supposed to work in India or the Middle East, asks Robert Fisk
    The science of swearing: What lies behind the use of four-letter words?

    The science of swearing

    What lies behind the use of four-letter words?
    The Real Stories of Migrant Britain: Clive fled from Zimbabwe - now it won't have him back

    The Real Stories of Migrant Britain

    Clive fled from Zimbabwe - now it won’t have him back
    Africa on the menu: Three foodie friends want to popularise dishes from the continent

    Africa on the menu

    Three foodie friends want to popularise dishes from the hot new continent
    Donna Karan is stepping down after 30 years - so who will fill the DKNY creator's boots?

    Who will fill Donna Karan's boots?

    The designer is stepping down as Chief Designer of DKNY after 30 years. Alexander Fury looks back at the career of 'America's Chanel'
    10 best statement lightbulbs

    10 best statement lightbulbs

    Dare to bare with some out-of-the-ordinary illumination
    Wimbledon 2015: Heather Watson - 'I had Serena's poster on my wall – now I'm playing her'

    Heather Watson: 'I had Serena's poster on my wall – now I'm playing her'

    Briton pumped up for dream meeting with world No 1
    Wimbledon 2015: Nick Bollettieri - It's time for big John Isner to produce the goods to go with his thumping serve

    Nick Bollettieri's Wimbledon Files

    It's time for big John Isner to produce the goods to go with his thumping serve
    Dustin Brown: Who is the tennis player who knocked Rafael Nadal out of Wimbeldon 2015?

    Dustin Brown

    Who is the German player that knocked Nadal out of Wimbeldon 2015?
    Ashes 2015: Damien Martyn - 'England are fired up again, just like in 2005...'

    Damien Martyn: 'England are fired up again, just like in 2005...'

    Australian veteran of that Ashes series, believes the hosts' may become unstoppable if they win the first Test