Food Of The Week
Restaurants often need to change to stay ahead of the game. Andy Lynes selects the masters of reinvention
Sunday 23 April 2006
Scratch the surface of most restaurants and you'll find layers of refurbishments, refits or rethinks.
Heston Blumenthal is well known for dishing up snail porridge at The Fat Duck, High Street, Bray (01628 580333, thefatduck. co.uk). But few people realise that when the restaurant first opened, the self-taught chef was serving classical French dishes such as steak bordelaise and chips.
El Bulli, Cala Montjoi, Roses, Girona (00 34 972 15 04 57, elbulli.com), is renowned for its cutting-edge food. But leading avant-garde chef Ferran Adria started out cooking traditional Spanish cuisine when he first took over the kitchens there.
Chef Alain Senderens shocked the culinary world when he recently closed the historic three-Michelin starred Lucas Carton restaurant in Paris. In a brave move he relaunched it as Senderens, 9 Place de la Madeleine, Paris (00 33 1 42 65 22 90, lucascarton.com), a contemporary bistro.
When top New York chef Daniel Boulud moved his fine dining Daniel restaurant 10 blocks downtown to East 65th Street, he converted the original location into Café Boulud, 20 East 76th Street, New York (001 212 772 2600, danielnyc.com). The eclectic menu includes a pot au feu that might have been served in the original Café Boulud in Lyon 100 years ago.
Northern Ireland's leading chef Paul Rankin responded to losing a Michelin star by transforming his upmarket Roscoff restaurant into Cayenne, 7 Ascot House, Shaftesbury Square, Belfast (028 9033 1532, rankingroup.co.uk), a buzzy brasserie serving everything from salt and chilli squid to pear and raspberry crumble with raspberry ripple ice cream.
Chef Tetsuya Wakuda used to serve four-course dinners in a tiny converted shop front in the Rozelle area of Sydney. Now relocated to a refurbished city-centre heritage building, the multi-course fusion extravaganzas at Tetsuya's, 529 Kent Street, Sydney (00 61 2 9267 2900, tetsuyas.com), have earned him worldwide acclaim.
Sir Terence Conran's mammoth Cuban restaurant Floridita, 100 Wardour Street, London (020 7314 4000, floriditalondon.com), used to be Mezzo's, his modern British brasserie. Before that, it was the site of the legendary Marquee Club.
The French Laundry, 6640 Washington Street, Yountville, California (001 707 944 2380, frenchlaundry.com), is a historic building with a chequered past. Before being transformed by Thomas Keller into one of the world's most famous restaurants it has at times been a French steam laundry, saloon and brothel. It was first run as a restaurant by a former mayor of the town in the late 1970s.
The Independent travel offers: Discover a world of inspiring destinations
- 1 Katie Hopkins attacked me on Twitter — so I reported her to the police for inciting racial hatred
- 2 Google April Fools': company unveils backwards search engine and huggable digital assistant
- 3 I might be an MP, but that doesn't stop me fighting sexism with my breasts
- 4 April Fools' Day 2015: The best hoax news stories from around the internet
- 5 Gamers confess the worst things they've done in The Sims
Ukip supporters are 55 or older, white and socially conservative, finds British Social Attitudes Report
Street preacher quoting from the Bible fined for calling homosexuality an 'abomination'
Katie Hopkins attacked me on Twitter — so I reported her to the police for inciting racial hatred
Woman filmed launching racist tirade against men on the Tube for speaking in 'own lingo'
The West has it totally wrong on Lee Kuan Yew
David Cameron calls Labour 'hopeless, sneering socialists' while announcing 7-day NHS plans
£12500 - £36000 per annum: Recruitment Genius: This established Wakefield Deal...
Competitive (DOE) + Benefits: Guru Careers: our .NET Developers / Software Dev...
£25,000 - £30,000: Sheridan Maine: Are you looking for a fantastic opportunity...
£25000 per annum + Benefits: Ashdown Group: Management Accountant - Manchester...