Keep up. Everyone dines in the hotel restaurant these days
Sunday 08 May 2011
There was a time when an enthusiastic travelling gourmet would have died rather than accept the defeat of eating in the hotel where he or she was staying. But the increasing number of high-quality hotel and resort restaurants, overseen by award-winning and celebrity chefs, means a night in can be destination dining, too.
Yannick Alléno of Le Meurice in Paris applies his three Michelin-starred culinary magic to three restaurants at the glamorously over-the-top One and Only The Palm, at Palm Dubai (00 971 4 440 10 10; thepalm.oneandonlyresorts.com). The modern menu at Stay includes sea bass tartar with ponzu jelly and dry seaweed, and classic desserts, such as a made-to-order mille-feuille flavoured with vanilla, hazelnut or chocolate.
Rome-based seafood specialist Massimo Riccioli brings his gill-to-tail cooking to Massimo Restaurant and Oyster Bar at the Corinthia Hotel in London (020-7930 8181; corinthia.com). The jaw-dropping marble and mosaic interior provides a glorious backdrop to dishes such as tuna black pudding with fish-skin crisps.
It's doubly delicious at La Cuisine, Le Royal Monceau at Raffles Paris (00 33 1 42 99 88 00; raffles.com) where Alain Ducasse-trained chef Laurent André serves savoury delights that include steamed duck foie gras with apple and quince, onion compote and sangria reduction, and world-famous pâtissier Pierre Hermé handles the sweet stuff such as macaroon, rose-petal cream, lychees and raspberries.
The pony-tailed pharaoh of fusion cuisine, Neil Perry, extends his ground-breaking restaurant empire to Rockpool Bar and Grill in Perth, Australia (00 61 8 6252 1900; rockpool.com.au), where you can dine in modern, elegant surroundings on roast squid, smoky chilli and pork belly, or seafood stew with spicy mussel and saffron broth.
Gastronomic legend Joël Robuchon is doubtless hoping to add to his currently unequalled worldwide haul of 26 Michelin stars with the opening of Joël Robuchon Restaurant and L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon at Resorts World Sentosa, Singapore (00 65 6577 7888; rwsentosa.com). Serious gourmets seek out the 16-course tasting menu, which might include the signature Oscietra caviar and cauliflower purée en gelée.
There's a lucky 13 restaurants at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas (001 702 698 7000; cosmopolitanlasvegas.com) that will make foodies forget the blackjack. The menu at Comme Ça, by LA chef David Myers, includes classics such as beef bourguignon and coq au vin, while Eric and Bruce Bromberg bring New York favourite Blue Ribbon and its dishes, such as chicken with shichimi pepper and wasabi honey, to Vegas.
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