Room Service: Nicarao Lake Resort: Nicaragua

After decades in the tempestuous world of revolution, counter-revolution and natural disaster, Nicaragua is pushing its way on to the tourist map. It has been 10 years since the last shots were fired; guns have been surrendered, and the revolutionaries have settled back into new lives as fishermen and farmers. The result is that this is now one of the safest countries in Central America, though the US State Department warns: "Violent crime in Managua and other cities is increasing, and street crimes are common."

Like its neighbour Costa Rica, Nicaragua is a country of rainforests, volcanoes and lakes. The people are welcoming even if the tourism infrastructure is still comparatively basic.

The beautiful former capital of Granada, on the shores of Lake Nicaragua – the largest freshwater lake in Central America – is the stepping-off point for the Nicarao Lake Resort, or Hotel Isleta La Ceiba as it's also called. This small, 10-roomed hotel is set amid swaying palms on one of many hundreds of islands on Lake Nicaragua. The Nicarao may not be grand in world terms, but the resort tends to attract Nicaraguan high society, such as it is, particularly at the weekend.

Location, location, location

Nicarao Lake Resort, Apartado Postal 2285 Managua (00 505 266 1237, www.nicaraolake.com or e-mail: nlr@nicaraolake.com.ni).

The resort is in a nest of islands inhabited by sculling fishermen, a 20-minute crossing from the mainland south of Granada. Besides its sheer size, Lake Nicaragua's other claim to fame is the presence of the only freshwater sharks in the world, very shy and very rarely seen. The resort has its own kayaks, pedal-boats and speedboats, and organises excursions to other nearby islands. The lake here is glassy-smooth and tranquil, but out beyond the islands it can be treacherously rough.

Time to international airport: Allow three hours, including the boat crossing, from the shambles of Managua's airport. There are no direct flights to the UK, but Iberia has flights via Spain, and Continental has a connection every day via Houston. Tours Nicaragua (00 505 2287063; www.toursnicaragua.com) can make transfer arrangements.

Are you lying comfortably?

Bedrooms are sparsely furnished but have large windows (usually with lake views), hot water and air-conditioning (unnecessary except in the heat of the day in summer). There's a freshwater pool between the palms, and the restaurant menu relies on passing fishermen. Bird-life in Nicaragua is superb, and the surrounding waters and islands are busy with cormorants and kingfishers.

Keeping in touch: The resort has a mobile phone and an onshore office for messages, but the telephone service is not always reliable and you'd be better off with e-mail.

The bottom line

A basic rate of $55 (£38) per person per night includes room and three meals and use of kayaks. You can also get a four-night package at $200 (£138) per person.

I'm not paying that: Plenty of cheap backpacker options exist on Lake Nicaragua, particularly further south on Omotepe.