Sarah Barrell: Don't feel pressured by screaming headlines

Travel view

Suggested Topics

"Are you sure?" is the current question greeting news of a planned trip to the Middle East.

And by that I don't mean Gaza or Tunis but anywhere in the Near East. I got an "are you sure?" from my husband, my sister, and my editor when I announced I was off to Syria and Lebanon. My airline was, of course, more pragmatic. BMI, which flies to some exciting, if not edgy, near-eastern and pan-Saharan spots, advised me to register online with the Foreign Office, then sent me off.

And quite right too. Because unless you stop travelling altogether, that's all you can do. Unrest and terrorist attacks happen without warning the world over, but I'll admit that when I found out I was flying into the planned "Day of Rage" in Damascus, even I thought "are you sure?" – not least as I was pretty sure this would not slot comfortably into the City Break travel feature I was planning.

But a week later, having spent days wandering around the dark lanes of the souk in Damascus, I travelled by a bumpy cross-border road into Lebanon, and on to Beirut, and saw no hint of dissent. The only threat to my safety was from gross overeating – Levantine food can make gluttons of monks.

I did find that I was one of just four tourists wandering blissfully free around the magnificent Roman site of Baalbek, and among only a few more on the Corniche in Beirut. I'm not suggesting that booking into a warzone to avoid the masses is a sensible travel mandate but taking headlines at face value is risky too. Apart from denying yourself great experiences, any overreaction means the countries you were to visit will also lose out. Despite the Day of Rage turning out to be not even 10 minutes of tantrum, the Four Seasons hotel in Damascus was populated by just a handful of businessmen from the Gulf States; a wave of panic had resulted in cancelled bookings. While I might not feel huge sympathy for an international franchise, I did feel for my guide, a young entrepreneur who had recently ploughed family money into a new guesthouse. "I'm praying things calm down over there," he said of Egypt.

And, of course, that's often how unrest is: localised. There's nowhere better than Beirut to remind you of this. This city, that has been under fire on and off since 1975, is practised at uninterrupted normal service. During the recent crisis, its nightlife simply moved up the coast to Byblos and Jbeil. Where there is a will, at least to party, there is a way in Beirut.

On my last evening, an email from the FO warned of aerial manoeuvres. Not something you want to hear while in Lebanon. It turned out to be a courteous alert to Lebanese army planes buzzing routinely over the city that night. Gazing down from the rooftops of the new forest of waterfront hotels, tourists may have wondered if a historic grab for power was on the cards. But I can report that there was nothing but heavy traffic around Martyrs' Square.

For the latest Foreign Office travel advice go to: fco.gov.uk/en/travel-and-living-abroad/travel-advice

Independent Comment
blog comments powered by Disqus
Career Services

Day In a Page

Next in line – but public just can't warm to idea of Charles in charge

Next in line – but public just can't warm to idea of Charles in charge

'Independent' poll finds less that half want him to take throne as ministers moan of interference
Nothing's sacred: the illegal trade in India's holy cows

Nothing's sacred: the illegal trade in India's holy cows

Andrew Buncombe reports from Kaharpara on a bloody war between rustlers and border guards
Mogul grounded: Desmond gives up his jet deal

Mogul grounded: Desmond gives up his jet deal

Media tycoon's company pays £1m to cancel his order for a £36m private jet after drop in profits
How Ai Weiwei built a pavilion in London – by remote control

How Ai Weiwei built a pavilion in London – by remote control

The artist tells Clifford Coonan how he used Skype to escape confinement in Beijing
Nature, nurture... or neither? The new twist in an age-old argument

Nature, nurture... or neither?

The new twist in an age-old argument
Radio 4 to shed its cosy image with a 'sexy' Ulysses drama

Radio 4 to shed its cosy image with a 'sexy' Ulysses drama

New station controller wants to reflect the current period of 'turmoil and uncertainity'
Alcohol: I drink therefore I am

Alcohol: I drink therefore I am

New guidelines warn Britons to drastically reduce their boozing. But is a life without liquor worth living? Hell no, says John Walsh
The Cable News Nightmare: CNN (and Piers Morgan) in audience crisis

The Cable News Nightmare

CNN (and Piers Morgan) in audience crisis
Like a barbie, but better: The Big Green Egg can griddle, roast, and smoke food - and even make pizza

The Big Green Egg: Like a barbie, but better

It can griddle, roast, and smoke food - and even make pizza...
The 10 Best chopping boards

The 10 Best chopping boards

Whether you want to dice veg, chop meat, or just slice up a salad, there’s a surface here to suit every culinary need.
Flat and fabulous: From wraps to foccacias, our appetite for new and exotic breads knows no limits

Flat and fabulous: Exotic breads

Lucy McDonald visits the bakeries of Tel Aviv to to find out what we'll be eating next.
Brendan Rodgers: Just like Mourinho... only different

Brendan Rodgers: Just like Mourinho... only different

Obsessive, ambitious, eager to learn and with no playing career; can the Northern Irishman be Liverpool's Special One?
Gary Lewin: Players need winter break

Gary Lewin: Players need winter break

The England physio tells Patrick Barclay that this spate of injuries is due to the non-stop demands of the Premier League

Countdown's rudest ever moments

Yesterday a contestant spelt the word 'minge'.
Special report: Tamil asylum-seekers to be forcibly deported

Special report

Tamil asylum-seekers to be forcibly deported