Simon Calder: Au revoir - now it's time for French frills to head south

The man who pays his way

The first high-speed railway in continental Europe connected Paris with Lyon. In 1981, the Train à Grande Vitesse (TGV) began a rail revolution by halving the time between the two biggest French cities. In 2013, another seismic shift takes place, again from Paris to Lyon. The difference this time: it's a no-frills revolution.

From April, French Railways (SNCF) will launch a Ryanair-style offshoot. First class is being ripped out of the trains being converted to operate the service, and the trains themselves will work harder. At present, the TGV fleet rarely perspires, being used typically seven hours a day, covering around 900 miles. These targets will be doubled for the new trains.

SNCF insists passengers organise all the ticketing themselves. Passengers with the temerity to bring aboard more than one bag face extra fees. And the stations planned for the new venture are miles away from the cities they purport to serve. Visitors to Disneyland Paris may already be familiar with the rudimentary northern hub at Marne-la-Vallée. Anyone leaving the southbound train at its first stop, Lyon, will discover they are at a third-rate gateway to France's second city: neither the splendid Gare Perrache, nor the modern Part-Dieu station on the eastern edge of the city centre. Instead, trains will serve Lyon's airport, Saint-Exupéry, half an hour away at the far end of Europe's most expensive tram ride (€13 each way, if you're tempted).

Why the odd departure and arrival points? Partly because train operators, in common with airlines and bus companies, have to pay to use terminal space. In city centres, this can constitute expensive infrastructure which feeds through to higher fares. I suspect, though, that an equally important motive is to minimise "cannibalisation" of existing traffic – in other words, to deter price-sensitive passengers who currently use the TGV between Paris and the Mediterranean from switching to the new, cheaper trains.

The news reached me through the new September edition of the Thomas Cook European Rail Timetable (£14.99). The editor, Brendan Fox, says: "I expect it will succeed as there are always travellers who want to travel at the cheapest price." If Mr Fox is right, might British passengers find themselves shivering on the platform at Willesden Junction in north-west London waiting for a train to Birmingham International (the station for the NEC)? Unlikely, says Mr Fox: "Marne-la-Vallée and St-Exupéry are ideally situated on high-speed lines. I doubt if operators in the UK will want to start trains at out-of-the-way places to offer cut price tickets."

Glum in Seat 61

What does "The Man in Seat 61" make of SNCF's new wheeze? He is, of course, Mark Smith, whose website (seat61.com) helps travellers to organise rail travel abroad. You might well imagine that the rail guru would be all in favour of fresh, low-cost options for train passengers. In fact, he is appalled: "It's the city-centre terminals and lack of fuss over luggage that is attracting passengers off planes and back on to the rails. SNCF is trying to copy the worst things about air travel that we know passengers hate, such as terminals way outside the cities they serve and having to pay extra for any baggage."

Cent sent into exile

My efforts to get some answers from SNCF about the new enterprise – such as its name and the planned fares – have proved in vain. But while waiting for press officers to fail to respond, I made a couple of surprising discoveries from an interview with the SNCF president that I tracked down on the conglomerate's labyrinthine website.

The first is that French Railways has sent the cent into exile. The president, Guillaume Pepy, announced a decision "to eliminate cents from our prices, because they're confusing. Going forward, all fares will be round numbers". I hope the rounding is downward as well as upward. More extraordinary was Mr Pepy's response to an innocent question from a traveller complaining about having to pay €20 when he left his Fréquence pass (a discount card) at home. The SNCF president blew a fuse. "This is France, the land of fraud," he thundered, blaming his fellow countrymen for trying to "game the system". He said fraud on trains amounts to nearly €300m a year, which I make a remarkable £450 per minute.

Perhaps the president is right in his assertion that "France is the European champion of fraud – maybe not the world champion, but certainly the European champion".

Independent Comment
blog comments powered by Disqus
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
News in pictures
World news in pictures
       
Independent
Travel Shop
India and Shimla
14 nights from only £1899pp Find out more
Prague city break
Three nights from £199pp Find out more
4* Soreda hotel break, Malta
Seven nights all-inclusive from £399pp Find out more

ES Rentals

    Independent Dating
    and  

    By clicking 'Search' you
    are agreeing to our
    Terms of Use.

    Day In a Page

    James Pembroke: The man who's eaten everywhere

    The man who's eaten everywhere

    Few people know more about restaurants than James Pembroke, who only spent five mealtimes at home during his entire childhood.
    A Berliner in 1963 – but did John F Kennedy once admire Adolf Hitler?

    A Berliner in 1963 – but did John F Kennedy once admire Adolf Hitler?

    The young JFK praised 'superior' Nordic races during visits to Germany
    Banned Iranian director Mohammad Rasoulof to attend Cannes Film Festival 2013, his first public appearance since prison

    Banned Iranian director to attend Cannes Film Festival

    Mohammad Rasoulof to make his first public appearance since being imprisoned three years ago
    Seeing the larger picture: Inspiring images of space

    Seeing the larger picture: Inspiring images of space

    An exhibition explores images how photography has shaped astronomy
    Eat Spam and carry on: Wartime pamphlets could teach us a thing or two about healthy, thrifty eating

    Eat Spam and carry on

    Wartime pamphlets could teach us a thing or two about healthy, thrifty eating
    Facial hair: Cat beards and the purrrsuit of excellence

    Facial hair

    Cat beards and the purrrsuit of excellence
    The 10 Best salt and pepper sets

    The 10 Best salt and pepper sets

    Whether they're for everyday use or to make your dining table look just right, it's worth getting a stylish shaker...
    Ferran Soriano: Predicting success if Manchester City 'vision' is followed

    Ferran Soriano: Predicting success if Manchester City 'vision' is followed

    Chief executive says trophies will come if a 'core' of suitable players is in place
    Thomas Müller: We couldn't handle losing a Champions League Final again

    Thomas Müller: We couldn't handle losing a Champions League Final again

    The Bayern Munich forward tells Tim Rich his side have to shed chokers' tag after two recent final defeats
    Giro d'Italia: The Stelvio Pass - cycling's killer climb

    The Stelvio Pass - cycling's killer climb

    As the Giro d'Italia tackles the brutal climb, Simon Usborne takes on the snow and switchbacks – and soon realises what the fuss is about
    National archives: Edward VIII’s phone calls - and how MI5 bugged them

    Edward VIII’s phone calls - and how MI5 bugged them

    Newly unearthed papers reveal a shocking extra dimension to the constitutional crisis over monarch’s abdication
    Sent down at the Old Bailey: A tour of the world's most famous court

    Sent down at the Old Bailey

    A tour of the world's most famous court
    Hollywood's random acts of red-carpet kindness

    Hollywood's random acts of red-carpet kindness

    The Hangover actor Zach Galifianakis’s date for his movie premieres isn’t arm candy  – it’s his 87-year-old friend who he saved from homelessness
    British football scores an own goal

    British football scores an own goal

    Many managers barely survive a year in post. Martin Baker talks to experts who make a case for clubs using forensic business skills to find the best staff
    James Lawton: Sergio Garcia cracks as major fault line opens up again

    James Lawton

    Sergio Garcia cracks as major fault line opens up again