Sleepover: A bed in Ireland

Iskeroon
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The Independent Travel

Where is it?

On Derrynane Bay, just off the Ring of Kerry in south-west Ireland.

What's it like?

Remote and romantic. Leave the main road at the Scariff Inn, between Caherdaniel and Waterville, and follow a long track down to the sea, around hairpin bends, through a gate, across a beach and up a stony drive to the house. The long, low, pink building was built in 1936 by the Earl of Dunraven and the subtropical garden was planted by his American wife – a connection which explains the New England style of the house. The main rooms look out over the bay.

What's its USP?

If you want total peace and quiet, this is the place to come: no televisions and no children (except the two resident toddlers).

Service?

Geraldine and David are friendly and knowledgeable about the area, but they won't invade your space. Their two dogs, Stork and Seamus, are ready to snooze at your feet by the fire or trot at your heels if you venture out for a walk.

Rooms?

Three doubles, each with its own bathroom just two steps across the corridor. All rooms have panelled, vaulted ceilings, accentuating the sense of space. The decor is simple but stylish, revealing an eye for design, with bold colours, bright textiles, modern ceramics and attractive ornaments. Part of an outbuilding has been converted into a comfortable self-catering studio, with a double bed, kitchenette, sitting and dining areas and an en-suite shower room. Penhaligon toiletries add a touch of luxury. B&B from €50 (£30) per person per night. The studio costs from €380-€450 per week.

Food and drink?

David cooks breakfast and the menu is likely to include soda bread, cinnamon pancakes and scrambled eggs with local smoked salmon. You'll have to go out for lunch and dinner. Sheilin in nearby Waterville is recommended for seafood.

Clientele?

Quiet types, of course. Walkers, divers, twitchers and folk just taking a break from the rat race.

Things to do?

Take a boat out to the Skellig Rocks to see the beehive-shaped stone cells where an order of medieval monks once lived. Explore the Kerry coast by foot, bicycle or car and visit the little island of Valentia. Or you could just put your feet up with a good book and occasionally wander down to the beach at the bottom of the drive.

Address?

Iskeroon, Caherdaniel, Co Kerry, Ireland (00 353 066 947 5119; www.iskeroon.com).

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