Sleepover: Hotel Birger Jarl

A bed for the night in Stockholm

Where is it?

To the north of the modern central area, 20 minutes' walk from the main shopping area. Set in a quietish street – mainly offices and residential buildings – it lies between two main thoroughfares, Sveavagen and Birger Jarlsgatan.

Describe the setting

Outside, it is nothing to write home about – a seven-storey hotel built in 1974. The real interest is the interior, recently turned into a shrine to design. Read on.

Does it have a USP?

Twenty Swedish designers were recruited to renovate most of the 240 rooms, some designing a series, others just one. All rooms have a Nordic ambience, created by a good use of light, subtle combinations of colours and furnishings made from natural materials and designed by renowned, contemporary Swedish craftspeople. There are 16 design rooms, signed by their creators. One of the quirkiest is Miss Dottie, which has bright polka-dot wallpaper and a high bed, giving the impression that it is a child's room. Room 247 was overlooked in the renovation, so you can see what the place used to look like – you've got to be a true 1970s aficionado to book this room.

Comfort factor?

It's crisply comfortable rather than sumptuous. We stayed in "Dubbelrum med gul talva" (double room with yellow painting) by Johan Stylander, which centred on, yes, a big yellow abstract painting (which we liked). The room was not huge but it had enough room for a sitting area and desk (with broadband access). The mini-bar contained a few complimentary soft drinks, and a fruit basket with strawberries added a nice touch. In the public areas, the hotel lacks space – there's a small bar in the lobby, but that's about it.

What's in the bathroom?

Ours was a decent size with a combined bath/shower. The hotel supplies guests with its own BJ-labelled body lotion and shampoo and a fairly fluffy robe.

I'm hungry

You can stock up well from the buffet-style breakfast in the restaurant. Sit at a pine table and help yourself to fruit, cold meat, cheese, fish, salad, bread, or, if you prefer, eggs, bacon, sausages, meatballs and waffles. Lunch and dinner are served in the same room – international fare with a Swedish accent. But for more interesting food and stimulating surroundings you may want to venture out – there is a good range of restaurants in the neighbourhood.

What are the people like?

Mostly business people during the week, tourists (not all design freaks) at the weekend. The ambience is informal, the staff friendly.

Local interest

Get a taste of Stockholm's long and colourful history by visiting Djurgarden island park, where you can stroll around Skansen open-air museum, with its 150 old buildings, including farms, manor-houses and churches. A spectacular museum houses the 17th-century royal ship, the Vasa, raised from the harbour in 1961. Ferries and boats are a good way to see both the city and the surrounding area: take a trip to one of the 24,000 islands of the archipelago, where many Stockholmers have summer homes, or to the beautiful royal palace of Drottningholm, one of the historic sites dotted around Lake Malaren. You will find big stores, boutiques and street markets in the central shopping area, Normalm.

Access for all?

There are lifts to all floors, and one room is specially adapted for people with disabilities. Pets are allowed for a small charge. Cots are available and there are family rooms, or an extra child's bed can be provided for £20.

What's the damage?

Weekend packages start from £140 for two people for two nights in a double room. "Design Weekends", including accommodation in a design room (or suite), design guides, entry to museums and store discounts, start from £250 for two people for two nights. Standard double room prices start at £156.

Address

Hotel Birger Jarl, Box 190 16, Tulegatan 8, 104 32, Stockholm, Sweden (00 46 8 674 18 00; www.birgerjarl.se).