The Hedonist: Behind the mask in Venice

What to see and where to be seen

After checking in to the gilded Hotel Concordia (00 39 041 520 6866; hotelconcordia.com), I head up to my room to drop my bags. As I walk through the door, I feel as if I've time-warped back to the 18th century. A glance out the window, which overlooks St Mark's Square, reveals a busy throng, dressed in costumes and masks.

After getting my bearings – the hotel is a lavish concoction of 18th-century decor, authentic furnishings and beautiful Venetian glass – I decide to hit the town.

I dash through labyrinthine streets before rocking up at Harry's Bar (00 39 041 528 5 777; harrysbarvenezia.com). Founded in the 1930s, this snug little corner maintains its original decor. Its list of famous patrons includes Ernest Hemingway, who made it one of his haunts in 1949. After sampling a bellini (prosecco and peach juice), I return to exploring the streets.

Just off St Mark's Square, I drop into Loro Piana (00 39 041 277 0695; loropiana.com) and peruse the clothes with an eye on a gorgeous suede coat with cashmere sleeves. I also stop in Murano Vitrum (00 39 041 522 5067; murano vitrum.com) and marvel at beautifully crafted glass vases, before eventually succumbing to a Venetian glass fountain pen.

Shopping, I find, is thirsty work. Happily, I stumble upon Caffe Centrale (00 39 041 887 6642; www.caffecentralevenezia.com), a stylish bar overlooking a pretty side canals. I bag a table by the window and sit, passion-fruit daiquiri in hand, to watch life unfold. Then, after a mouthwatering light bite of prosciutto crostini, I decide to explore more of the backstreets. I take a meandering route towards the Rialto Bridge – a chance to absorb the city's culture and beauty.

I discover a quaint little wine bar: Enoteca Al Volto (00 39 041 522 8945; alvoltoenoteca.it), which has more than 1,000 bottles to choose from. I make a modest attempt at some of the vintages on offer, then wander out to the Rialto where gondolas (and their loved-up occupants) float down the Grand Canal.

Joyfully, I discover that it's the start of happy hour at Bacaro Jazz (00 39 041 528 5249; bacarojazz.com), so I manage to splash my way through, ahem, several cocktails, including a very strong Long Island iced tea.

I make friends with a group of American tourists; we opt to stay for dinner at Bacaro Jazz. (My filet mignon with cognac and mushrooms is divine.) Then, somehow, I agree to accompany my new friends to the Carnival festivities. After a quick stop to purchase a semi-tacky mask, we head to St Mark's for the Carnival Grand Ball. We party through the night, mingling with locals and tourists in the carnival spirit. The masks, I feel, add a further dose of heady glamour.

Then again, after a late start to the morning, my head requires refreshment of a different variety and the outdoor seats at Caffe Florian (00 39 041 520 5641; caffeflorian.com) are the perfect place to restore my equilibrium. Biscotti and a rich espresso bring me back to life and soon I'm good to go.

Later, I spend a few hours mulling over the endless carnival shops which, even in the light of the morning after, are as entrancing as the night before. I splurge more cash on another glittering mask (last night's one having got lost somewhere en route to the hotel). Suddenly, I'm once again transported back to 18th-century Venice, joining the carnival for more magic.

This year's Venice Carnival runs from 26 January to 12 February (carnevale.venezia.it)

A Hedonist's Guide to ... (Hg2) is a luxury city guide series for the more decadent traveller. For more information, see hg2.com

News
people
News
people
News
peopleStella McCartney apologises over controversial Instagram picture
Life and Style
Laid bare: the Good2Go app ensures people have a chance to make their intentions clear about having sex
techCould Good2Go end disputes about sexual consent - without being a passion-killer?
PROMOTED VIDEO
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Arts and Entertainment
Richard Burr remains the baker to beat on the Great British Bake Off
tvRichard remains the baker to beat as Chetna begins to flake
News
i100
Sport
footballArsenal 4 Galatasaray 1: Wenger celebrates 18th anniversary in style
Arts and Entertainment
Amazon has added a cautionary warning to Tom and Jerry cartoons on its streaming service
tv
News
people
News
The village was originally named Llansanffraid-ym-Mechain after the Celtic female Saint Brigit, but the name was changed 150 years ago to Llansantffraid – a decision which suggests the incorrect gender of the saint
newsA Welsh town has changed its name - and a prize if you can notice how
Travel
ebookHow to enjoy the perfect short break in 20 great cities
Arts and Entertainment
Kristen Scott Thomas in Electra at the Old Vic
theatreReview: Kristin Scott Thomas is magnificent in a five-star performance of ‘Electra’
News
Destructive discourse: Jewish boys look at anti-Semitic graffiti sprayed on to the walls of the synagogue in March 2006, near Tel Aviv
peopleAt the start of Yom Kippur and with anti-Semitism flourishing, one Jew can no longer ignore his identity
Life and Style
Couples who boast about their relationship have been condemned as the most annoying Facebook users
tech
Arts and Entertainment
Hayley Williams performs with Paramore in New York
musicParamore singer says 'Steal Your Girl' is itself stolen from a New Found Glory hit
News
i100
Independent Travel Videos
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Amsterdam
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in Giverny
Independent Travel Videos
Simon Calder in St John's
Independent Travel Videos
Latest stories from i100
Have you tried new the Independent Digital Edition apps?
Independent Dating
and  

By clicking 'Search' you
are agreeing to our
Terms of Use.

ES Rentals

    iJobs Job Widget
    iJobs Travel

    Service Charge Accountant

    30,000 to 35,000 per annum: Accountancy Action: We are currently recruiting on...

    Management Accountant

    28,000 to 32,000 per annum: Accountancy Action: Our client, a hospitality busi...

    Food and Beverage Cost Controller

    18,000 to 20,000 per annum: Accountancy Action: Our fantastic leisure client i...

    Marketing Analyst / Marketing Executive

    £20 - 24k: Guru Careers: A Marketing Analyst / Marketing Executive is needed t...

    Day In a Page

    Italian couples fake UK divorce scam on an ‘industrial scale’

    Welcome to Maidenhead, the divorce capital of... Italy

    A look at the the legal tourists who exploited our liberal dissolution rules
    Time to stop running: At the start of Yom Kippur and with anti-Semitism flourishing, one Jew can no longer ignore his identity

    Time to stop running

    At the start of Yom Kippur and with anti-Semitism flourishing, one Jew can no longer ignore his identity
    Tom and Jerry cartoons now carry a 'racial prejudice' warning on Amazon

    Tom and Jerry cartoons now carry a 'racial prejudice' warning on Amazon

    The vintage series has often been criticised for racial stereotyping
    An app for the amorous: Could Good2Go end disputes about sexual consent - without being a passion-killer?

    An app for the amorous

    Could Good2Go end disputes about sexual consent - without being a passion-killer?
    Llansanffraid is now Llansantffraid. Welsh town changes its name, but can you spot the difference?

    Llansanffraid is now Llansantffraid

    Welsh town changes its name, but can you spot the difference?
    Charlotte Riley: At the peak of her powers

    Charlotte Riley: At the peak of her powers

    After a few early missteps with Chekhov, her acting career has taken her to Hollywood. Next up is a role in the BBC’s gangster drama ‘Peaky Blinders’
    She's having a laugh: Britain's female comedians have never had it so good

    She's having a laugh

    Britain's female comedians have never had it so good, says stand-up Natalie Haynes
    Sistine Chapel to ‘sing’ with new LED lights designed to bring Michelangelo’s masterpiece out of the shadows

    Let there be light

    Sistine Chapel to ‘sing’ with new LEDs designed to bring Michelangelo’s masterpiece out of the shadows
    Great British Bake Off, semi-final, review: Richard remains the baker to beat

    Tensions rise in Bake Off's pastry week

    Richard remains the baker to beat as Chetna begins to flake
    Paris Fashion Week, spring/summer 2015: Time travel fashion at Louis Vuitton in Paris

    A look to the future

    It's time travel fashion at Louis Vuitton in Paris
    The 10 best bedspreads

    The 10 best bedspreads

    Before you up the tog count on your duvet, add an extra layer and a room-changing piece to your bed this autumn
    Arsenal vs Galatasaray: Five things we learnt from the Emirates

    Arsenal vs Galatasaray

    Five things we learnt from the Gunners' Champions League victory at the Emirates
    Stuart Lancaster’s long-term deal makes sense – a rarity for a decision taken by the RFU

    Lancaster’s long-term deal makes sense – a rarity for a decision taken by the RFU

    This deal gives England a head-start to prepare for 2019 World Cup, says Chris Hewett
    Ebola outbreak: The children orphaned by the virus – then rejected by surviving relatives over fear of infection

    The children orphaned by Ebola...

    ... then rejected by surviving relatives over fear of infection
    Pride: Are censors pandering to homophobia?

    Are censors pandering to homophobia?

    US film censors have ruled 'Pride' unfit for under-16s, though it contains no sex or violence