Offal experience

HAIM Nelu, a restaurant in the Israeli port of Jaffa, is entirely equitable in its pricing policy. But when I called in last weekend at this Jewish-Romanian enterprise, the menu seemed designed to turn me into a vegetarian.

Choosing a starter is simple enough: jellied calf's foot is the standard hors d'oeuvre. For the main course you select from Modoviroa, which translates as spinal cord, Momitsa, a cow's tonsils, and, for something more cerebral, Viennese-style brain in breadcrumbs.