Come inside, the snow's lovely

Can't spare time for a trip to the Alps? Vivienne Heller finds a cheaper option in Leeds, where there's plenty for all the family to do

Gus is sprawled on the snow throwing a two-year-old's tantrum. Noah (three and a half) stands stiff in his ski boots, mute with horror. This isn't exactly how I had pictured the family's first ski trip. But I really don't care, because this little drama is being played out in the confines of an indoor ski slope rather than a costly alpine resort.

Admittedly, it has taken us almost as long to get here, but the promise of a brand-new real-snow slope - the largest in the UK - seemed worth the drive from Hampshire to Castleford, near Leeds. And as soon as the signs for it appeared on the motorway, a pre-ski frisson shook us out of our travelling torpor.

For my husband, usually a reluctant skier, it is as much a chance to check out the latest venture by the business supremo P-Y Gerbeau, of Millennium Dome and EuroDisney fame. The ski slope is just one of many attractions at his new Xscape venue, which has built on the success of the Milton Keynes one. It is certainly impressive from the outside, cutting a colossal bright-lights dash in a grim industrial area.

On opening night it attracted 20,000 visitors. Many of those would have been waylaid by the attractions of the entrance area: a desertscape, with red-rock climbing walls and model cacti posing as seats and lifts. Suspended from the ceiling, intrepid visitors in hats and harnesses can negotiate an aerial assault course of logs, ladders and nets. It is like extreme installation art, as thrilling to watch as to explore hands-on. For the less adventurous, there is the 14-screen cinema, bowling alley and chain restaurants. But we had eyes only for the snow zone.

Away from the fun gimmicks of the rest of the complex the children looked increasingly unsure, and as a cold wind whipped round the spacious changing rooms, their moods plummeted with the temperature. It was a short, sharp shock for Noah, who, after weeks of sleeping with his borrowed salopettes, had to be coaxed into tiny ski boots and 80cm skis. Husband and I were fitted up with kit from the shiny new stock of Salomon skis, boards, boots and poles (included in the price), and introduced to our instructors.

We followed them into the snow area, carrying Noah and Gus, who were rigid with padding and trepidation. To our right rose a wide, gentle nursery slope, with rope lift; to the left was the 15 per cent gradient of the 190m main slope. It was shocking how quickly the crunch of perfect snow numbed my maternal instincts. I dumped the boys with a lovely pisteuse, Catherine, and Alan, who trains the Yorkshire ski team. He reassured me that three was not too young to stick a kid on skis, and set about teasing a smile out of Noah.

Relieved, I was up that Poma lift in a flash with the instructor Peter, who had learnt to ski in the Army, and was the epitome of a kindly gentleman. "This is as good as it gets," he said, explaining how jets fired cooled water into air chilled to -2C to produce the 1,500 tonnes of perfect snow we were now facing.

I learnt to ski at the relatively ancient age of 25, by the unconventional route of following experts over mountains, with cries of "Don't fall, this is an avalanche area" ringing in my ears. Consequently, fear has featured high in my relationship with skiing. An unhurried lesson in "carving" was just what I needed.

By the time we reached the bottom of the slope, after about 10 turns, I was in ecstasy, especially as the children had perked up. After being whooshed around on skis, Noah had joined Gus on a toboggan, and they were finally getting the hang of having fun in the snow (not a possibility on the dry-slope alternative to snow, which feels like Astroturf). Husband, meanwhile, was trying boarding on the nursery slope, under the tuition of Dave, who he explained was "a really nice bloke, but very professional. He didn't make me feel rushed, and was good at explaining". Sadly, the lesson ended prematurely when his paternal instincts kicked in and he began rolling around in the snow with the children. But he had learnt the basics and was itching to try boarding again.

I continued with my lesson, emerging with a modicum of style and control. Though the piste was popular, there were no hold-ups on the Poma; the slope can take 250 people, but numbers are regulated per session according to visitors' expertise. Within the hour, in a totally different environment, we were thawing out on the soft seats of Frankie and Benny's, munching burgers and dissecting the day's experiences. The children's faces were ruddy with an après-ski glow, and I felt the end had justified the means.

Like many people, we have neither the time nor money to go skiing for a week en famille, but I felt we had enjoyed a taste of the resort experience. My sissy southern children had learnt what extreme cold feels like, and, after the initial tears, emerged begging for another tumble in the snow.

Xscape Castleford, nr Leeds (0871 222 5671; www.xscape.co.uk) offers ski lessons for adults and children (from three years of age) at £26 per hour and toboganning from £8 per hour. Recreational ski periods start from £16 per hour per adult and £13 per child. The centre opens daily from 9am-11pm. Vivienne Heller stayed at The Hilton, Garforth (01132 866556; www.hilton.co.uk), a 10-minute drive from the centre. It offers double and family rooms from around £108, including breakfast.

On the pistes in the UK

Xscape Snozone, Milton Keynes

Three real-snow slopes; max width 20m, max length 170m. Open from 9am; adult recreational from £16, children £13; adult lessons from £27, children £18. 01908 230260; www.snozonemk.co.uk

Snowdome, Tamworth, Staffordshire

Three real-snow slopes; max width 30m, max length 150m.

Open from 9am daily; adult recreational from £15, children £7; adult lessons from £27, children £18. 08705 000011; www.snowdome.co.uk

Bracknell Ski and Snowboard Centre, Berkshire

Three dry slopes, max width 18m, max length 150m.

Open from 10am daily; adult recreational from £10, children £7.50; adult lessons from £21, children £16. 01344 789000; www.nikegroup.co.uk

Halifax Ski Centre, West Yorkshire

Two dry slopes, max width 40m, max length 140m.

Open from 10am daily; adult recreational from £13, children £9.50; adult lessons from £14, children £10.50. 01422 340760

Plymouth Ski and Snowboard Centre, Devon

Three dry slopes, max width 18m, max length 160m.

Open from 10am daily; adult recreational from £10, children £7.50; adult lessons £21, children £7. 01752 600220; www.nikegroup.co.uk

To join recreational sessions, you need to be able to link turns, control speed and use a button lift. Prices include kit.