Resort Report: St Moritz, Switzerland

Where is it?

Where is it?

St Moritz's tag line is "top of the world" and this is just about fitting for a resort that still manages to stand head and shoulders above the rest in terms of social recognition. From Badrutt's Palace to the Cresta Run, this is a place where skiing plays second fiddle to showing off.

Chocolate box or concrete box?

The Engadin valley is Heidi's spiritual home, but what the Swiss miss would have made of St Moritz's urban sprawl is anyone's guess. Fortunately the stunning lake and surrounding mountains soften the look.

What's the snow like?

With the resort at a lofty 1,800m and three separate ski areas above 3,000m, the downhill action keeps going till May. And there are 70km of snowmaking.

Going up

The main Corviglia area is reached by a state-of-the-art funicular which starts directly above the town. The lifts carry on up to Piz Nair, reached by a cable car with a mid-station which formed the steepest ever start to a men's World Cup downhill - 0-130km per hour in seven seconds. A bus ride away is Surlej, from where a queue-prone cable car takes you 1,500m skywards to St Moritz's highest skiing on Piz Corvatsch.

Coming down

St Moritz's 350km of mostly intermediate piste are as well groomed as its clientele, and the sun-drenched Corviglia area is full of perfect posing pistes. Corvatsch provides a slightly sterner test while Diavolezza, a half-hour bus ride away, lives up to its name with the area's toughest pistes and one of the Alps' classic off-piste routes - a 10km descent down the glacier to Morteratsch.

Where can I leave the kids?

The four-star Schweizerhof Hotel (00 41 81 837 07 07), in the main square, runs a non-skiing kindergarten for over-threes. The Swiss Ski School (00 41 81 830 01 01) takes over-fours out on the slopes and offers a pick-up service.

Can I get some air?

St Moritz may be more Bulgari than Burton, but the boarding scene is developing and there are now a half-pipe and terrain park on Corviglia and a freestyle park at Furtschellas. Thrill-seekers should hire a guide and head for the seriously steep off-piste below Piz Nair.

How much for a lift pass?

A six-day high-season St Moritz lift pass costs Sfr322 (£135) for adults, Sfr299 (£125) for 16-20 year olds and Sfr161 (£68) for six-15-year-olds. Under-sixes ski for free.

My thighs hurt. Can I slope off?

If you've got endless Swiss francs you'll be welcomed at every turn, from a run down the Cresta (00 41 81 833 46 09; men only except for the last day of the season) and shopping in the designer boutiques to horse-drawn sleigh rides or a flutter at the casino (00 41 81 837 54 54). For those with smaller pockets, there's a public swimming pool (00 41 81 837 33 33) and outdoor ice rink (00 41 81 833 50 30).

Enough exercise. Where can I eat up my francs?

Anywhere that sells itself on polo isn't likely to be lacking in the fine dining department and the possibilities for over-indulgence are legion at such places as Grischuna (00 41 81 837 04 04) and Chesa Veglia (00 41 81 837 28 00). For something a little less stretchy on stomach and wallet, the Secondo (00 41 81 834 99 90) serves up tapas and pasta, along with cool cocktails and funky music, while La Botte (00 41 81 833 39 88) is a homely pizzeria, the perfect antidote to St Moritz's galloping gourmets.

Après-ski rating

If you're still in your ski boots, head for the open-air Roo Bar in the main square. If you've already changed into your fur coat, infamous haunts such as the members-only Dracula Club and the wealthy-only King's Club beckon. The more down-to-earth Bobby's Bar is one of those curiously continental inventions - a pub in a shopping mall.

How do I get there?

St Moritz is 200km from Zurich. It is also the starting point for the Glacier Express to Zermatt, one of the great rail journeys of the world.

In the area

If you're into cross-country, head to St Moritz next Sundayfor the famous 42km Engadin ski marathon.

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