Something to declare
Smoking is prohibited on all trains in New Zealand

True - almost. The compendious new third edition of Colin Taylor's Australia and New Zealand by Train (Bradt, pounds 10.95) suggests where smokers should congregate: on the open observation car of the TranzAlpine from Christchurch to Greymouth.

"This is formed from the power cars, the ends of which are open to the elements like a cattle truck. Passengers stand in the breeze to enjoy not only the sight but the sounds and smell of the scenery - and smokers here can enjoy a crafty drag, which is prohibited everywhere else on New Zealand's railways."

Whether or not you smoke, the author commends this line as "one of the top 10 train journeys of the world".